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Nobody has mentioned buying a factory or aftermarket shop manual that has reams of wiring diagrams. Mine go on for page after fold-out page, in color.
Also, the poster says his '83 wiring harness is in "good shape." Right. It's a quarter-century old. |
You do have a project on your hands but you have a great attitude. Maybe you could join one of the local clubs and get some help. I don't know where in So. Cal. you live but I lived there for 25 years and was a member of the PCA Orange County region, and they were a bunch of pretty good guys. I would think some of them would give you a hand or maybe even have your car in for a tech session.
Like Brother says also maybe a fellow pelican could come give a hand. You can get a lot of help right here in this forum. Pictures always help to see what we are talking about and take if from there. There is a wealth of information on Pelican. Good luck. |
others on this board have taken on larger scale projects. You can do it! Be diligent, remain positive.
The harnesses haven't changed so much. I adapted an '86 to my '71. I could have gone the other way, if necessary. I pared down the '86 harness, eliminating one circuit at a time, once I fully understood its function. The wiring diagrams are available on Pelican Parts. You just have to hunt for them. I printed them to several 81/2 x 11s and magic taped them together. Doug |
A new harness is about $2,000 from www.ynzyesterdaysparts.
Splitting yours isn't the end of the world, but there is absolutely no way in the universe you will get the car to function correctly without reinstalling the factory harness as closely as you can to the original. To do that, you need: 1) a digital camera; and 2) one entire DAY with another car with the wiring layout you want, so you can follow every wire in the car and see how it's routed. It just cannot be explained over the Internet where the wires go. Good luck! There is a lot here on wiring-- search under "early_s_man" for a lot of good advice! |
Sure this is a large undertaking for anyone that isn't "secure" in his wiring. BUT for all those in question, EVERY 911 that has been stripped and dipped or E- coated with the tubs stripped have gone through this. Surely, some of those cars made it back to function. Many of those cars are the ones we drool over and are ones in garages like mine. Teo's car comes to mind and it turned out well OK by most opinions (read sarcasm).
Get your diagrams, study, make notes and be methodical and systematic. Just connect one system at a time and before you know it many systems will be functional. I know you can run a wire. Just run a wire a few hundred times. I find the 911 makes a heck of a lot more sense than the E-type's Lucas mess I'm currently restoring. |
m enclosing a couple of picture I took of the work in Progress. The picture of the two switches are the ones I need to know the color codes of the wires going to each. The next one is my torque tube which was rusted through on the right side. My plan for the torque tube is to take one of the cover plates, cut the top and bottome off of it, insert it in and weld it in place. Once that is done, Im going to take the end that I cut off that was on the outside against the rubber and weld it on the inside as the new stop. If anyone has a better idea, I'd be happy to hear it. I am also putting one more picture in that shows some kind of a connector screwed in above the clock. Any ideas on wht it is and where the wires go.
Thank people. I appreciate the help and messages. \ Terryhttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1240599583.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1240599607.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1240599638.jpg |
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