Dumb question from a Valve Ajustment Noobie
 

Just starting my first valve adjustment on a 3.2. Engine is on a stand. Read through the tech article and I'm already off track on step #1. There are no markings, just notches on the crank pully. How do I find Z1 TDC????

There should be a mark on the pulley.

The key thing to pay attention to is to make sure the valve is off the lobe when you set the gap. Crank the engine over and make sure the valve is off the lobe, then set the gap.

Out of the car it is easy.

Take the distributor cap off and rotate the engine until the tip of the distributor rotor points to the location of number 1 cylinder on the cap.

It's easy. Find the number 1 spark plug wire on the cap and then mark that location on the distributor body
near the top with a felt tip pen. (doesn't have to be perfect)

Then rotate the engine until the tip of the distributor rotor points to felt tip mark.
Once your done confirm the location by checking that a notch on the crank pulley lines up with the join line of the case halves.

This is a picture of my crank pulley and it's markings. My car is a 1978... So yours is different.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1241653851.jpg

On my SC there are a total of 4 notches. Two of the four notches are very close together, these represent Z1 and 5deg.

As you are rotating the engine/pulley clockwise watch the marks going by. When you see the two that are close together you will first come to the 5deg. mark then to Z1.

Line up with Z1 (2nd mark) and then confirm that you are at TDC on zylinder 1 by looking at the notch in the distributor housing. The tip of the rotor should be pointing at it. If not, then turn the engine around to the Z1 mark again.

Hope this made sense. Again this is on my '81 SC 3.0.

Good luck, Cooper

OK, here are a couple of pics of the crank pulley notches (no markings) and the dizzy showing what I think is TCE at about 12 o'clock. Rotor shaft in dizzy is rusty....that can't be good!

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1241655944.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1241655988.jpg

Looks like you're close to TDC for number 1...

Can you rock the rockers a little bit? (Can you feel the gap?)

;)

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1241657387.jpg

Peter, there are no marks on the outer pully. Here are a couple more pics - rotor pointing to TDC mark but none of the pully notches line up with the case seam as shown in pic #2. I need to pull out the Bentley manual.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1241658106.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1241658157.jpg

The area circled in red looks like the mark to me. Is that a raised mark or something else?

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1241658704.jpg

Mark, in the last photo you are about 20deg After -TDC
The first notch to the right is the one to line up for TDC.
Paul

OK here are a couple more with the pully notch closest to the TDC mark on the dizzy. There are no marks on the outer pully, just a couple of chips in the paint.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1241660996.jpg


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1241661139.jpg

You've got it for 1&4 at TDC. Now look for the 120 deg markings for TDC of 3&6, 2&5.
Firing order 1-6-2-4-3-5 : each 120deg apart
Paul

Thanks Paul!

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1250375888.jpg

You have the spot.. I just did my intakes and it sounds great, used the feeler for 1 and 4. #3 by feel/wiggle and the other side by feel/wiggle of rocker. Double checked feel/wiggle a couple of times, buttoned it up with new gaskets and lock nuts. Next will be a oil change and the exhaust valves.

Look like you are using the second mark on your engine block's mark, and your distributor/rotor look right if the piture's angle on the distributor is correct. On my car, 88 engine, the first mark matches my fan housing mark, and my distributor/rotor look like your pic.

Drained the oil last night. checked exhaust valves when warm 3 were pretty loose. I adjusted one, spot on just to see if would get tighter or loose when engine completely cooled off. The results were the adjustment tightened up a touch. Adjusted 5 of six this morning with feeler and feel/wiggle method, double/triple checked. Filled w/ VR1 20/50 race oil w/ ZDDP (extra zinc) Well the engine sounds super. I took it out for a spirited drive to get it nice and hot; checked w/ stethoscope before and after, it sounded a little looser when hot like a well oiled machine. More power when hot now, the valves are opening up a touch more.
Fun project, it took me about 3 hour on the top and 2 hours on the bottom.

What are those numbers: 5, 26, 35?

Degrees before top dead centre...

in this case, the TDC should be a little further to the left of number 5?

Yeah, about 5 degrees left of there. :)

mthomas58,
You'll need to give that distributor some TLC like cleaning and lube on the weights, springs and pivot points.
Don't forget a few drops of oil on the small felt under the rotor. :)

oh no. I am not so sure now.
My car has 3 marks just like that picture above and the pic from tech article I place below here, there is no numbering on mine, not even "Z1". I used the first mark on the right (like Z1 on the article), and the rotor matched the distributor's point correctly base on the book. Now the question is if I should base on the first mark on the right, or 5 degrees to the left of the last (3rd) mark?
Anyone know?

http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...just_pic17.jpg

Keep in mind that TDC for #1 and the rotor pointing to the notch could mean that you're on the exhaust stroke, NOT the compression stroke.

You may have to go another turn for compression stroke.

Wiggle the rockers on #1 intake and exhaust. Should be loose for compression stroke.

??? Now even more confused, although not realated to the marks on the crank pulley. I thought when you are at TDC, both exhaust and intake valves for that piston should be at the most loose point, and you can adjust both of them at the same time?

When adjusting the valves, the engine doesn't need to be *exactly* at TDC either - just both valves completely closed. If the adjustment is normal, this means a little click when you rock the valve back and forth. Little click - barely noticeable, and even sometimes difficult to do because of the oil suction effect on the two flat surfaces between the valve and the rocker foot.

-Wayne

Since you have the engine out, now is a good time to learn how the cams and valve actually work.
First the engine rotates clockwise. Always turn the crank clockwise.
To find TDC for #1 or any other cylinder, simply remove the sparkplug and place a compression gauge in the sparkplug hole.
As you slowly turn the crank clockwise look for the compression gauge pressure to rise.
Remove the comp gauge when the pressure just begins to rise. then carefully insert a medium size screw driver tip into the cylinder.
Slowly continue to rotate the crank clockwise, while feeling for the top of the piston with the screw driver.
When the piston pushes the screw driver fully up you are at or near TDC Compression stroke.
Remember the compression must begin to rise, this is the compression stroke.
Some folks can reach in and feel the compression with a finger plugging the sparkplug hole.
Also remember the piston also rises to the top when in the exhaust stroke.
With the exhaust stroke there is no pressure developed in the cylinder.
Both the exhaust valve and intake valve are closed during the compression stroke.
They close over 100 degrees before TDC and remain closed for over 100 degrees after TDC. Thus it isn't required to be exactly on the TDC mark as Wayne pointed out.
Once you have identified TDC compression you can adjust both valves.
A helpful exercise is to slowly rotate the crank clockwise from TDC compression while watching the valve action.
About a half turn past TDC the exhaust valve will open and remain open until the crank returns to the TDC position. This allows the burnt air/fuel mixture out of the engine. This is the exhaust stroke.
Near TDC EXhaust stroke the exhaust valve will close and the intake valve will open. The intake will remain open until the crank is just past BDC.
This allows the fresh air fuel/mixture into the cylinder. This is the intake stroke.
The intake will close just past BDC and it will remain closed until the next intake stroke.
With both valves closed the air/fuel mix is compressed just prior to firing.
These are the four strokes of a four cycle engine. Intake, Compression, Fire, Exhaust.
Try it and you will find you really don't need the crank marks at all.
You really need to understand the four strokes and the valve/piston inter-action, then things like adjusting valves will be simple.
Have fun,

When I search for my TDC, I lifted up the distributor's cap to look at the dist rotor, and turn the crank's pulley. When my crank pulley look likt first pic below (first mark without numbering/lettering. And the dist/rotor look like second pic, I am at TDC. Now I can adjust both intake and exahust valves for piston #1.
Turning the crank pulley almost 1/2 a turn (120 degrees?), I hit another single mark on the pulley, I am at another piston (#6 I think). Now I can adjust both intake and exhaust valves for this piston... and go on to next piston by turning the pulley another 120 degree for another mark. Am I correct?

At first mark like this pic, but ther eis no numbering/lettering.
http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...just_pic17.jpg

The mark on housing isn't at the middle of the rotor, but at the right corner of it. Pic morrow from Mark's post earlier.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1241660996.jpg