Rear Main Seal Install with P234 tool - highly recommended
 

Just completed a rear main seal replacement using the the P234 tool. There was a recent thread about the tool not fitting property and was sent back(http://forums.pelicanparts.com/911-engine-rebuilding-forum/470527-how-use-p234-tool.html?highlight=p234). I had a very good experience and though I would post as I could not find much when searching for the P234 on how to use it.

As cited by CBRacerX in the referenced thread, the P234 does not come with any instructions and I also could not install the tool to the flywheel crank using all three bolt holes as only two would line up. Nevertheless, two was sufficient to get the job done.

First of all, I used Wayne's seal removal method using a flat head screwdriver as a pry bar and another screwdriver as a leverage shaft - this worked great!

I disassembled the P234 and could not figure out how to use is so I ran up to my local mechanic and asked him how to use it. My experience below. Hope it helps.

P234 on the left. New seal on the right.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1242268281.jpg

Disassembled the P234. No instructions, no prior seal replacement experience and nothing intuitive about how to use it. The ring on the left is not used in the install - it is only to protect the thin edge of the P234 from getting damaged in storage. The hub is mounted to the crank using a couple of flywheel bolts.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1242268409.jpg

So, how do you use this???

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1242269971.jpg


New seal actually gets placed on the tool. I never would have thought of this - I though the protection ring was somehow used to push the new seal on - not!

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1242268799.jpg

Hub mounted to flywheel crank
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1242268930.jpg

Pressing new seal into place
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1242269034.jpg

Done!
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1242269113.jpg

That, is the definition of an overkill.

I have always done mine with a piece of wood.

I used this tool for my 944 turbo, works great. We've done a few seals with it - no leaks at all.

Thanks for posting this... Now I can make my own version.

Typically P tools are always over engineered.

Agreed, especially for a tool you'll use once every god knows when.

I don't disagree that there are no/ low cost alternatives to the pricey seal installation tool. I've read plenty of posts here where an improperly installed seal leaked. For me, the peace of mind knowing that it went on absolutely square to the crank is worth it.

This thread is intended for those who want to know how to use the installation tool not if it's worth dropping the coin. Don't tase me bro!:D

Good info! when I bolted mine up it did not seem as well centered as yours and would not fit over the end of the crank.

P.S. I just replaced a seal using the block of wood and hammer approach. Fired up yesterday and no leaks so far! Whew!

Nah, it's cool, to each their own, if I was rebuilding a bunch of engines for customers, then I might use it, or if someone said "Oh, I've got one you can borrow" I might use it as well. I've just always tapped in the seals on engines, and never had a leak problem. I think what's more important than how you get the seal in, is making sure it is "square", and the lip is not bunched up or folded in the wrong direction against the crankshaft, that will cause a leak for sure.

It's good people know there are alternatives to buying "fancy shmancy" specialized tools. But for those of you that do use it, I give you, this thread. :D

I have this tool because I got it on the cheap. Everybody laughed at me- until they use it. It rocks.

Yes a block of wood works well. I use that method all the time for wheel bearing seals on the 911 hubs. But consider this: What if your crank has a groove on it and you want to place the seal at a depth somewhere else besides flush with the case? Well this tool lets you drive it a little deeper, or leave it a little proud of the case, and still keep the seal nice & square.

Overkill it is, but it is still an effective tool. I took a couple of old flywheel bolts and reduced the OD of the heads w/my bench grinder to allow them to fit on the tool's base. But my tool also did not allow 3 bolts to bolt it to the crank.

I just installed mine last weekend with the ubiquitous hammer and wood method. Part numbers #H and #W.

I actually was going to use the tool I made to press my rear wheel bearings, but my 3" conduit coupler was about an 1/8" to narrow in diameter and don't have the tools to accurately route out the inside lip.

If anyone knows what Home Depot product (pipe sleeve), please post it. Thanks.

The wood block method works, but one bad install will make you see the value of this tool. Nothing worse than getting the car all buttoned up after an engine drop then finding out you have to re-drop the engine because the seal leaked. Seen this happen in real time and it SUCKS!

Agreed, that was why I gave it a shot.

Ahhh, touche, that's a good point... Still, I'd fabricate something before getting hit with the Porsche tax on this tool ;)

Case in point (not mine).

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1242323969.jpg

FYI - I had a crankshaft scratch on the rear seal area - chose to install a Speedi-Sleeve. Seems to have done the trick! But this tool will not work with the sleeve in place.

Could it be possible the tool you have is designed to be used on the earlier cranks with just 6 bolts not the later cranks with 9 bolts?

Thus a different bolt pattern.

Was that cause by an improperly installed seal?

My understanding the seal was installed with assembly lube and it actually blew out in the first 4.5miles. I followed JW's advice and installed dry on the outside and a little schmear of oil on the inside surface.

This is actually a SIR Tools Tax.