73 E running poorly
 

I took my 73 E out of storage today after putting it up in late oct. It ran pretty well when I put it up. It had only an 1\8 of a tank of fuel in it during the winter as I was going to try running none ethanol fuel in it this year. It started fairly well and idled okay for about three minutes.
shut it off. Washed it, than started it to go get fresh fuel but it had no power and ran very rough. I went and got three gallons of fresh fuel plus some fuel treatment. and put it in. Didn't help, car now won't start. Were do I start. Thanks for the help

Check to make sure you didn't get your ignition system, incl wires, cap and rotor, wet when you washed it.

sounds like the dizzy cap got wet.

I don't think there was any moisture on the electical system.

Drained fuel tank, Tank looks very clean, Cleaned tank fuel screen. and replaced fuel filter in engine compartment. Put new none ethanol 93 octane in. Tried to start and got one small pop but that was it,now it only turns over but does not want to fire. What next?

can you hear your Cd ignition wine? before you turn the key.

Yes I can.

try a new main fuel filter, it sounds like that old fuel gummed something up. For storage it is much better to have a full tank with fuel stabilizer. I'd change the filter, drain the tank again and put in a full tank of fresh fuel. Did you check and clean your filter at the tank. Take your level sensor out and take a peek inside the tank.

I did all of the above including the main fuel filter. Inside of the tank looks real clean. No water in fuel. None of that gel that you get when ethanol mixes with water or condensation. I will look at spark tomorrow.

check for sooted spark plugs. just a thought.

do you have spark?

are your points closed up??

I have checked spark and looks good. Plugs are a little dirty black, No fuel on plugs after cranking engine. I took off fuel supply hose to mfi pump and tuned over engine no fuel there. Do you have to bleed fuel supply after you drain all fuel from the tank and lines ? I think my problem is a bad fuel pump. I believe that the fuel pump is no longer available, can you get them rebuilt. Where is it located in my model car. I have not seen it in the belly pan.

OK, so you have spark – must be the fuel system.

Feel behind the MFI pump and confirm the tooth timing belt is still intact.

Put a ‘tee’ in the hose at the fitting closest to the rear of the car on the fuel filter console. See how much fuel flows with the electric fuel pump on. (it is wise to pull the plug on the CDI while you have open fuel.) Spec is 900 to 1000 ml in 30 seconds. You can also measure the fuel pressure here. Spec is 11.8 ±3.0 psi.

Even with your rear mounted electric fuel pump, you should not have to prime the system.

Unless you work with live nuclear weapons, gasoline is the most dangerous substance you normally come in contact with. Be VERY careful. The car you save may be your own.

Best,
Grady

cogged belt is still intact but the belt tension seam slack. maybe 3\4" to 1" inch of movement, I could roll it off with little effort. but seams to be on okay.

pulled the fuel line from filter to the mfi pump and turned key on and get no fuel at all.






'

Problem with the electric fuel pump. It is under the left rear seat on a bracket between the left end of the torsion bar tube and the inner structure of the chassis. It has a polarized 2-terminal plug. Is the pump running (it should be very noisy if not pumping fuel)? Check for power at the connector and clean terminals. Confirm that the power and ground will carry current (a headlight bulb is useful for this).

If no power, we next look at the fuse block.

If power, it is in the pump.

Best,
Grady

I can here the pump running, and it sounds noisier than normal. like it's dry. thanks

Is it possible that a hose was crimped when you cleaned the filter screen in the gas tank? It is also possible that a hose has come apart internally. The screen filter fitting can appear clean (you can see the weave of the screen) but can still be fully blocked.

When you cleaned the screen did you also drain the tank at the return banjo/drain plug? The return can stir up muck on the tank bottom and plug a clean screen.

Best,
Grady

I drained all the fuel from the tank. Removed the sending unit and inspected the bottom of the tank. It looks very clean. I removed the screen and cleaned with carb cleaner, I can see the weave of the fibers very faintly. Fuel seam to flow right threw it, also I can blow threw it very easy. I don't believe any of the lines are kinked.

Well, I guess the next step is to take the electric pump out and bench test it.

Use very thin oil (ATF), not gasoline. Plumb it so you can see the flow. Use a battery and charger so you can run the pump with both 12.0 V (battery alone) and 14.0 V (battery on charge).

If it doesn’t pump, give it a blast of carb cleaner and immediately put the oil back through it.

If it still doesn’t pump, soak it overnight in PB Blaster.

The two areas where a problem can occur are the rollers being stuck in the drive wheel slots and the relief valve stuck open (unlikely).

If the pump isn’t pumping, minimize the amount of running time. Without flow, the pump and motor can be damaged.

If you get it working, regularly inspect everything for any fuel leaks. Even the slightest seep is unacceptable.

While you have the pump out, use compressed air to make sure all the hoses and pipes are clear. You may have a Factory restrictor in the ‘T’ hose assembly between the pump return, return line from the filter console and to the chassis return pipe.

Best,
Grady