Windhield rubber seal-glue or no glue?
 

While trying to remove the rubber seal (which was a pain in the ass) I noticed a black sealant under the rubber.

Am I supposed to use sealant on the new seal? If so is there a sealant specifically for windshield sealing?

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1243910905.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1243910932.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1243910945.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1243910960.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1243910972.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1243910984.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1243910995.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1243911006.jpg

Between the seal and windshield OK, but not between the seal and steel body lip.

Hello Howard,

I heard of problems with the aftermarket seals - so try an original Porsche seal. Normally you do not use any sealer al all - but a lot of porsches do have glue. I would call Porsche and ask for help when getting the original seal.


best regards

Heiko

I used a pelican part seal and no glue on my 84 without any problem.

I bought my seal right here from Pelican. I will go with no glue.

Origional Porsche seal and no additional sealant, I would stay away from the silicone lubes as well they are there forever, Go old school, dish soap and water. Just did the 71 a few weeks ago very easy with another helper. also made a pic type tool from a chop stick sanded smooth to get a couple spots on the outside to pop out and lay right.
There is another thread here on doing windshields and sanding a door / cabinet wood wedge to a nice radius to aid fitting the corners. Made one but was not required.

Regards

The seal is designed to be used with no glue or sealant at all...

Having said that I've often seen windscreen replaced by professional that are packed with sealant. :confused:

Maybe that's a standard procedure for the pros but it's not necessary.
I'm guessing they do this because it's an added insurance against leaks but it's not the best option for your car.

Without sealant any water that makes it way under the seal can escape easier than if there was sealant there.

Great thread Plymouthcolt! I WISH there was some sealant in my windshield, it leaks. Please keep up the details and pics in your thread, this is very helpful, I think I'll be changing my seals before too long. I've got an 88' black/black also, more pics of your car would be nice to see too.
Thanks!
Are you totally DIY'ing this?

Yes it's a diy. I'll post more pics of progress in a few hours.

seal
 

go oem on the seal and you will not need any silicon. If you held the asian seal and the oem seal next to each other, you cam spot the inferiorness of the aftermarket seal. If doing a targa rear window, DO NOT buy the aftermarket seal, it is junk and caused me alot of headache until i got the right one

Argh I hate glue!
 

Here are some updates. Wow what a mess!

As you can see there is glue everywhere. If I didn't know better I would think this was a replacement seal that was glued in. But the rubber is hard and dry rotting so I assuming it's the original seal.

My guess is the former owner had a leak and used this glue as a stop gap measure in order to avoid spending money and doing it right. The big glue chunks come off by hand, but there is a film on the metal all around the frame.

Any suggestions on what I can use the remove this stuff?

You will also see where the glue peeled off the paint when I pulled on the rubber, and one spot where it's bare metal with rust starting. What should I do to remedy the bare and unpainted spots? Should I sand and primer the whole bottom frame? Or do I leave the painted areas alone and just treat what I can see?


This is the radio wire lead from the windshield.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1243966518.jpg

As you can see glue everywhere.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1243966631.jpg

This is not rubber-all glue
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1243966815.jpg

Paint peeling
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1243966702.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1243966752.jpg

This is what I used to remove the dry glue/silicone. It worked fantastic. Turns hard silicone and glue into mush.



http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1243971154.jpg

3M adhesive remover will cut it while not messing up the paint. Scrape with a plastic or wood tool only. Then sand and paint any damaged areas, preferably with POR before re-installing a new seal.

Indeed, a lot of people squirt silicone to stop leaks, instead of replacing the seal. My SC was a mess to clean up as well.

George

you DO NOT use any sealant between the glass and the rubber seal...yes you will need a new seal. the sticky rubbery stuff that is between the seal and the frame is the sealent you will want to get...it never hardens and it stays plyable....
the glass shops will use something like this
http://www.technologylk.com/product/984/CRL-Windshield-and-Body-Sealants/854/CRL7711/CRL-Windshield-Sealant-CRL7711.htm?src=shop.com
it is a sealant not a glue. keeps the water out!!!!
dont remember if this was the brand stuff my guy used but it was easy to ball up and remove the old stuff and put the new stuff in.

use normal window gleaner to get the glass into the seal. then put on the trim. then put the sealant around the outside of the seal put on a THIN layer. then instal the whole thing in the frame. will need to do the rope trick. foaming glass cleaner works the best.

A lot of professional auto glass installers have been made aware that a 911 windshield easily pops out in a collision. This would be especially true of the national chains. I had one guy insist that he used the butyl type of sealant because of liability. I let him do it on the '77 back in '94. I had previously installed the glass myself in '83 without any sealant. But, this was being paid by insurance and I no longer cared.

The glass in my Carrera is new and I did that one also. No sealant. The factory used no sealant. Just tellin' you guys where this idea comes from.

windshield is designed to be kicked out from inside in case of being trapped

Update
 

Ok I couldn't do any work the last few days due to non-stop rain.

I received via UPS a package containing the POR-15 starter kit. It contains marine cleaner, metal-ready, black POR-15 and paint brushes and gloves.

I couldn't find any 3M adhesive remover so I bought Goo-Gone. I applied it then let it soak then used my handy piece of wood I found on the ground to scrape off the gooey stuff.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1244336744.jpg

Some elbow grease and the frame is as clean as it was when it left Germany.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1244336903.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1244336933.jpg

My rotary tool to remove everything down to bare metal
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1244337039.jpg

Rust hiding under the paint
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1244337154.jpg

Down to bare metal
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1244337206.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1244337284.jpg

After the first coat of POR-15 and waiting for it to tack so I apply final coat.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1244337373.jpg

Well that's all for toady as it's too dark outside to work. I hope to start on install of the seal and trim tomorrow.

By the way those two orange suction cups in the first picture cost $2.49 each at Harbor Freight. They make handling the windshield so easy.

There was for years the need to seal the lower corners because the water would settle under the rubber and rust so even the last one I installed i used some avation permatex to seal the corners from any possibility.
Bruce

You should take the time to remove your wiper arms.

Hello Howard,

I recomment to use the discs to remove rust to bare metal instead of a brush that does not really remove all the rust from the surface.

http://images.mercateo.com/images/pr...2615041332.jpg

best regards

Heiko