Glove box locked or Jammed; how should I open......
 

I have a 1973 T.

The original key has never been able to lock or unlock the glove box. Today, I can not get the box open. I do not know if it is the lock or if it is just jammed. Though it does not seem jammed. Not a crisis but given the contents I need to eventually open. How do I get in? Remove the knee bar and unscrew the door? Locksmith? I do not want to create unnecessary damage.

This must be a security feature I never heard about; clear 120mph and the glove box automatically locks!

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1244386600.jpg

Try inserting a thin but still firm feeler blade in from the side of the knob at the top of the door, and then over the top of the knob to depress the retaining tab down. Your plastic tab is most likely broken.

Thanks... now I need to find my feeler guages.....

Couldn't do it. Locksmith?

How odd, Luke, I have the same problem. Subscribed!

Ed

I think I know exactly what happened (been down this road before).

When you're twisting the knob the "finger" that does the locking is not retracting far enough into the lock. The catch is that NOTHING will reach it to pry it down. The lock will have to be replaced when you do get it open.

On the bright side, I believe the finger is plastic ... I had to grab knob with a pair of special pliers, twist, and then pull like hell ... eventually the lock broke and we were able to find the 10 years of back registrations and doo-dads that were time capsuled in my friend's glovebox.

I don't think it's possible to unscrew the door from the outside, even with the knee pad removed.

I drilled two 3/8 inch holes in the bottom of the box.
One for a long screwdriver, the other for a flashlight and sight hole.
You can poke the blade of the screwdriver up there and release the latch from the inside.
If you choose, the box can be replaced with no noticeable after-effects.
(this was on my 73)
Bill K

I would do as bkreigsr suggested and wish I had checked here when mine broke on me. If you want instead of cutting two small holes you can cut as big a hole as you want and stick your hole hand in if you want. I cut the strap from under the dash holding the box in thinking I could just replace it cheaper than the box itself....DO NOT CUT THE STRAP!!! The strap is welded to the bottom of the dash top and not easily replaced....

Just cut hole in plastic glove box to gain access to back side of lock to pop open. Then replace box, many for sale here used and fix/ replace lock. My latch on the lock was made of metal so I am not sure that Mr9146's suggestion of yanking on it with a pair of pliers would have worked for me..

Gregg

Just unscrew the strap that holds the box in place.....you should be able to get a 10mm or 13mm socket way up there and take the whole box out from the hood side.

just force it to turn. the whole lock will rotate catch and all.

Been there done that.

Chris
73 911 E

Cut the strap, pull the box out, and reach the lock from behind. Use a 1/2" x 2" piece of aluminum and four pop rivets to "restore" the strap. No one will ever know.

He wants to minimize damage.

Neither his box or strap are damaged ... the lock is (obviously).

Therefore, the only part that should be sacrificed in this case is the lock itself.

Why destroy something that you don't have to destory? :confused:

Luke, I showed you what to do ... go for it. :)

I don't mean to step on toes here...When my lock would not operate, the mechanism inside the lock itself broke so no matter how much I twisted and pulled, the latch would not move an iota. Thus not allowing you to yank it open.

If the latching part is moving but just not enough to release then I would figure the twist and yank could work.

Also I just repaired my strap (that I cut in half to remove my glove box) by riveting it back together. While I was doing this I noticed that my lock and catch were not actually inside the glove box but more on top and to the left of it. Do not know if yours is different. But it looked like I could have used a long U-shaped stiff rod along with a lot of praying and fiddling to pop the latch.

Bill: where on the bottom of the box did you drill these?

Marco: what kind of "special pliers" did you use?

The feeler gauge approach isn't working for me. Luke, any luck?

Ed

On the 73, I drilled the holes about 1 1/2 inches in from the door, spaced 3 inches apart, in the center of the box, under the knob.
No amount of twisting or pulling from the outside is going to release the door (without destroying it) if the plastic tongue has separated from the lock mechanism, as was the case with mine. The guts of the lock are only white metal and mine just gave up after 29 years.
Bill K

I tried the feeler, Ed, no luck. I will not try anything until Saturday. Damn what a PIA.

Water pump pliers ... used to take water hoses off pumps. They have a good hook to them and grab behind the lock knob perfectly.

The lock may not be damaged. It could be that the large nut (forget this size) that holds the lock in place came loose. What gives me a clue that his is what might have happend is the horizontal position of the key slot in the pic. IIRC, it should be vertical. That happened to me once, but luckily was able to get the door open. When I tightened that nut, you can betcher donkey I used some blue loctite...

True, the nut may have come loose.

However, in the all times that I've see that happen over the years, the whole lock assembly would rotate and the glovebox would open.

The issue with those cars was keeping the glovebox closed ... not getting it open.

I've tried this to no avail, actually have made things worse. The lock cylinder was able to rotate 45 degree counterclockwise but no further. Now I can't even get the key - the only key that I have for the car - into the slot. I don't want to try to force the cylinder any further as I've already put some scratches into the door and don't want to gouge it. What now? :mad: