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Registered
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: WV.
Posts: 1,036
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oil lines going to thermostat
I need to replace the oil line that goes from the hard line on the engine to the thermostat in front of the rear wheel. This the one that threads on top. The bottom line is in the way. How in the world are you suppost to remove the top line with the bottom one still connected? there isnt enough room to get a wrench on it.
I have heard that if I try to unscrew the bottom line the threads will strip on the connector and ruin the line. |
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06-08-2009, 04:38 AM
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Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Michigan
Posts: 14,093
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When installing new exhaust on wcc's 930, we ran into the same problem. We had no choice but to loosen the bottom line to get access to the top. We tried every other method suggested with no luck.
We used copius amounts of Kroil and were lucky enough to get it removed without any damage. Found this thread: Oil Line Replacement Help Needed - Oil Tank to Thermostat.
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1981 911SC ROW SOLD - JULY 2015 Pacific Blue Wayne Last edited by Oh Haha; 06-08-2009 at 04:52 AM.. |
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06-08-2009, 04:46 AM
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Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Wheaton, IL (Chicago 'burbs)
Posts: 3,141
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Since I was replacing the line, I just took my Dremel and carefully cut the hard line about an inch back from the nut at the thermostat. Once off I was able to get a good 6 point 36mm socket on the nut and got it off the thermostat cleanly. This after it had been there for 23 years and 190,000 miles. The new line went on just fine with my open end line wrench.
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Ed '86 911 Coupe (endless 3.6 transplant finally done!) '14 Jeep Grand Cherokee 3.0 Turbodiesel (yes they make one) '97 BMW 528i (the sensible car, bought new) '12 Vintage/Millenium 23' v-nose enclosed trailer |
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06-08-2009, 05:12 AM
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beancounter
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Weehawken, NJ
Posts: 3,593
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I just replaced the bottom line on my 1979 this weekend. I was looking at that top line and there's no way to get it off without taking off the bottom one. I was really dreading the job after reading horror stories here, but honestly it wasn't that bad. I used some heat and kroil, put my monster adjustable on the nut, and used a 3' section of pvc pipe as a 'strong persuader' Loosened up without damage or drama.
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Jacob Current: 1983 911 GT4 Race Car / 1999 Spec Miata / 2000 MB SL500 / 1998 MB E300TD / 1998 BMW R1100RT / 2016 KTM Duke 690 Past: 2009 997 Turbo Cab / 1979 930 |
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06-08-2009, 05:50 AM
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Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: WV.
Posts: 1,036
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This is what I expected to hear ........ but what is Kroil? Never heard of it...is PB blaster and heat enough to help break them loose without damage?
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06-08-2009, 05:55 AM
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Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Michigan
Posts: 14,093
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Kroil is Blaster PB on steroids.
It really is a better product. (Stinks like dog a$$ but it works.) I got mine at a local speed shop but I have seen it on the shelf at Lowes, Home Depot, etc. This might help you find some locally: http://www.kanolabs.com/
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1981 911SC ROW SOLD - JULY 2015 Pacific Blue Wayne Last edited by Oh Haha; 06-08-2009 at 07:58 AM.. |
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06-08-2009, 07:47 AM
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Home of the Whopper
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You can get a crows foot wrench on there without taking off the bottom line.
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1968 912 coupe 1971 911E Targa rustbucket 1972 914 1.7 1987 924S |
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06-08-2009, 08:57 AM
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Home of the Whopper
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1968 912 coupe 1971 911E Targa rustbucket 1972 914 1.7 1987 924S |
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06-08-2009, 09:05 AM
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Registered
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: WV.
Posts: 1,036
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thanks everbody...this was alot of help. I'll try it tonight.
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06-08-2009, 09:16 AM
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Olive
The Turtle
Ruby
Brownie
