Looking for Oil Line Paint Recommendation

[Inniswhe]

I have the exterior hard oil lines and tank removed from my 84' carrera for a full repaint . I wire wheeled the oil tank clean and applied two coats of Por-15.

I want to clean and repaint the oil lines and brackets as well. What is a recommended spray paint for the oil lines .

I am assumming the Por-15 is too thick, may impede heat dissipation.?Any experience with Por-15 on oil lines ? I do have the chassis coat black , maybe that is better over brass ?

My options here on PEI are locally available hardware store brands basically. I have some Tremclad Semi-gloss black. Would that last ? Would it require a primer.

The Wurth products are not available. Krylon is available , some Plasticote products are available like their , spray epoxy black, Duplicolor satin black, etc.

I am assumming that the Por-15 would be good for the brackets.

Thanks for any comments

[Dantilla]

I have no coating on my oil lines. A quick layer of rattle can paint is probably okay, but any more than that will act as insulation, and reduce the line's effectiveness.

[ClickClickBoom]

Just enough flat black to prevent corrosion. Same same for the tank, heat transfer will be hindered by any coating, thicker is more insulating.
eric

[RWebb]

heat transfer from 2-3 layers of paint is not going to be affected enuff to make a difference

[ossiblue]

Por-15 is overkill and is for rust, your lines are brass. Any flat black paint should be fine as the temps should not reach the point where the paint will fail. If in doubt, use some paint designed for an outdoor barbecue. If you want to Por-15 the brackets which are steel, that's another story.

[RSTarga]

Just polish them or clean them with some brasso or metal polish , they should not be painted.

[Formerly Steve Wilkinson]

Mine are exposed, and I love the look of the unpainted brass. Very Industrial Revolution, like an old steam locomotive.

[911pcars]

Originally Posted by RWebb

heat transfer from 2-3 layers of paint is not going to be affected enuff to make a difference

I agree w/Mr. Webb. Or leave unfinished. Or paint only one tube if you're torn between opinions here. The oil line temps shouldn't require barbecue-rated paint. It's only a couple of hundred degrees - typically.

Sherwood

[Inniswhe]

I am not going to leave them brass, that will take more work getting them cleaned up 100%. I sanded off most of the paint that would come off easily today and pressure washed the lines. I will paint the brass lines with a flat or satin black. I think the original finish was a satin black so I will probably try my tremclad semi-gloss.

The rear two lines are galvanized steel and are rusting on the surface .I sanded off what I could but those lines could sure use a couple of coats of Por-15. It will affect heat transfer for that section. I am quite sure it would be fine with the Por-15 for just that section. The insulating factor would not be much different than the pile of dirt I took off . Also in PEI peak summer temperatures are about 85F so if the original thin coat of black paint works in the southern US I would think I would be fine in this climate.

[LM3929]

I just bought rad paint from Eastwood as ordinary paint will to some degree impede heat transfer

http://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-radiator-black-paint.html

Eastwood Radiator Black Paint

Standard engine paints are too thick for radiator use because they can interfere with heat transfer and block air flow between the cooling fins. Also, standard paint tends to flake off radiator tanks. Radiator Black helps solve this problem. Durable Enamel formulation resists temperatures up to 250ºF, gas and chipping. One can covers 6 square feet (most radiators require 2 cans). Net wt. 12 oz.

Radiator Black Satin - Many have asked for a lower sheen radiator black. The lower satin sheen resembles the gloss level of modern plastic tank radiators and some imports.
Lorne m.

[Inniswhe]

That Rad paint looks like a great product. Unfortunately it is not readily available here. I may check out a local parts supplier to see if they carry anything similar.

[LM3929]

I had mine shipped US postal service to me here in Sunny BC

Lorne M.

[LM3929]

Where In PEI are you located?

Lorne M.

[Garp]

Originally Posted by Formerly Steve Wilkinson

Mine are exposed, and I love the look of the unpainted brass. Very Industrial Revolution, like an old steam locomotive.

Absolutely.

[Inniswhe]

Lorne, I am in Stratford, PEI.

Those bare brass lines look nice. Mine are now painted with Tremclad Semi gloss black. Still need to paint the steel lines however.

I just had to get going, didn't want to delay any further. The oil system is the first step in re-assembling my 911 after a full glass out repaint. It is a huge job, everything was removed from the wheel wells and all cleaned /painted.

Ross

[911pcars]

Originally Posted by Inniswhe

Lorne, I am in Stratford, PEI.

Those bare brass lines look nice. Mine are now painted with Tremclad Semi gloss black. Still need to paint the steel lines however.

I just had to get going, didn't want to delay any further. The oil system is the first step in re-assembling my 911 after a full glass out repaint. It is a huge job, everything was removed from the wheel wells and all cleaned /painted.

Ross

The external cooling system can be installed at any convenient time in this process. The system is fully accessible, yes?

Sherwood

[RWebb]

a non-metallic, ordinary paint will not impede radiative heat transfer - which is negligible here anyway.

any coating will create another layer for heat to conduct thru before it is convected away - BUT that again is inconsequential here

Trust me, I used to give people PhDs for applying heat transfer concepts to much more complex systems than this.

If it is cosmetics, then just use whatever looks good and will stick on there for a while.

A polished brass surface will tarnish pretty quickly.

Also, replacements from P AG come painted black.

[nameisbauer]

I use Duplicolor Wheel paint(supposedly better than regular) for similar applications. Goes on smooth and even( in the right hands) and dries quickly.

[Inniswhe]

Sherwood,

I guess could install the oil cooling system at any time but it is much easier to install before I install the fenders, rocker panels etc..

It was the last part off so I plan on making first part back on.

Ross

[RWebb]

Originally Posted by Inniswhe

...

The rear two lines are galvanized steel and are rusting on the surface ...

for this area, you could use a rust reducer product - Loctite makes one - any hardware store will have it

it acts like a primer too