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Doug&Julie's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: The Beave, OR
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Paint & Body Q: Would You Use This Decklid?

I bought a flat decklid to replace my duck (going for the clean original look) and knew the decklid I bought was in rough shape ("has some rust") but otherwise it's a fairly straight lid. So yesterday I (finally) started removing some of the paint to see how bad the rust is and I wanted to get some opinions on whether or not I should continue to use this lid (i.e. clean it up as best I can and give it to somebody to paint) or should I start over with something else. Right now I have less than $100 invested in this lid, so keep in mind buying another lid would cost more and I'd still have to have it painted. But if this lid isn't worth saving, then I'll start over and write this off as yet another lesson learned. Anywho...

This is the main area of concern, where the frame meets with the skin just south of the latch area.







The center part of the frame has actually separated from the skin, but the sides / corners still look together (I can't pry them apart with a screwdriver or anything).





And the outside shows no signs of rusting through.









The rest is supperficial rust, most of which I've ground off already and can get down to clean metal.

The car is a driver so I'm not worried about a concours quality part. I just want a flat lid that works and looks decent.

So what do we think? Carry on with reckless abandon or junk it now?

Thanks.

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Old 06-05-2009, 04:12 AM
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One more pic of the whole lid...

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Old 06-05-2009, 04:16 AM
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I dont claim to be a body man but past experience suggest to me that the rust will probably come back to haunt you in a year or so..
If its going on a keeper I'd look for another one.
Just my opinon. lets see what the others say...
Old 06-05-2009, 04:21 AM
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The car is a keeper, but the lid...maybe not so much?

A related question...I bought some product that supposedly "desolves" rust...is this possible? I was going to try it tonight and see how well it works. (I'm having trouble getting any kind of grinder down into the tight gap on the lid.)

Cheers.
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Old 06-05-2009, 04:41 AM
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no
it's already had a tail attached, so if flat is your aim, you are going to have to fill, build and sand to achieve a respectable surface, plus, and you're going to have to locate and drill for the period correct letters and emblems, if that's where you're headed.
lots of added work ahead
there are too many nice ones of these floating around at bargain prices to be spending a lot of time, or money, on this example
Bill K
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Last edited by bkreigsr; 06-05-2009 at 05:53 AM..
Old 06-05-2009, 04:56 AM
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have it bead blasted to check integrity and primed immediately if not swiss cheese. ive seen worse
Old 06-05-2009, 05:20 AM
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I'd finish stripping it... Then make your decision. Send it out to a professional stripper if you want I'm sure you can get your money out it if you want to move on. Unless you buy a lid that has already been stripped how will you know that the next lid is any better?
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Old 06-05-2009, 05:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bkreigsr View Post
, and you're going to have to locate and drill for the period correct letters and emblems, if that's where you're headed.

Bill K
I've encountered this problem from time to time. To solve it I made a template from an original decklid using fiberglass. I'll share it with anyone who wants to pay the postage.



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Old 06-05-2009, 07:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bkreigsr View Post
no
it's already had a tail attached, so if flat is your aim, you are going to have to fill, build and sand to achieve a respectable surface, plus, and you're going to have to locate and drill for the period correct letters and emblems, if that's where you're headed.
lots of added work ahead
there are too many nice ones of these floating around at bargain prices to be spending a lot of time, or money, on this example
Bill K
Thanks for your input. You're right about leveling the lid...that large area in the middle of the "shiny" side of the lid is leftover from what looks like somebody trying to pry the tail portion off. Duh. It's not terrible, but it's work.

FWIW I'm going to leave the decklid clean...i.e. no labels, numbers, etc. Also, I don't mind the time, it's the money that I'm short of right now. But at some level, time is money, so...
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Old 06-05-2009, 07:18 AM
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Find a good one on ebay and resell that one. There are several of them out there.
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Old 06-05-2009, 07:53 AM
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I would be leery of rust that has started under the seam around the edge that you cant get to to clean up will surface at a later date. I replaced an aftermarket glass lid on mine with an original. The inside was completely clean, no evidence of rust at all. After stripping the exterior of the decklid, we found a couple of rust spots that had not yet bubbled the original paint. I would hate for you to put all the work that it sounds like you are going to have to do, just to have the paint bubble in the near future.
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Old 06-05-2009, 09:03 AM
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Thanks all for the opinions. Just to update, I'm working with another lid. It arrived today and is a nice, straight, rust free piece offered from another Pelican (thanks Bob!). I'll post pics when I have a camera around.

Also, many have said this before, but just in case you missed it...Pelicans rock.


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PART OF MY SOUL: '09 Boxster 2.9 PDK, '86 911, '76 912E, '06 Cayman S, '90 911 C4, '74 911, '78 911 Targa, '01 Boxster, '70 911T, '99 Boxster (#2), '72 911T, '88 911, '99 Boxster (#1), '84 911 Turbo Look, '73 911 Targa, '88 944
Old 06-12-2009, 09:18 AM
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