Okay, so I need to crack the engine...

Alright, we've determined that I have broked head studs. (thanks for that bit of wonderful news gentlemen) I've dropped the engine (pretty easy) and now I'm all ready to go.
Here's the thing, I've never rebuilt an engine before. I'm very mechanically inclined and have been told that I'm atleast slightly intelligent (I wonder sometimes).
So what do I need? The engine is on the workbench still in one piece. Warren mentioned replacing 12 head studs. If I'm going to crack this baby open I'm going to do it right so should I just do all 24 studs?
Also, if I can help it, I don't want to have to go down into the bottom end. The engine supposedly has only about 100,000 miles on it but would hate to put it together and then have the bottom end go on me. What do you think?
Finally, is it worth calling Andial up and getting the 3.2 pistons and jugs?

Soooooo, to sum it all up here are the questions:
- 12 or 24 studs?
- What do I need to do the top end?
- Should I go into the bottom end?
- Should I go 3.2 pistons and jugs?

Oh yeah, and I almost forgot, "To carburate or to inject, that is the induction question..."

Thanks everybody! And remember, I probably won't be able to eat after I do this so don't go too wild on me!

If anyone wants to help guide a young man through his first email me roseneck@cyberbeach.net

Adam Roseneck
1978 911 SC (parts of it anyways)

If I were doing this engine for myself I would go with 24 Raceware studs they will run ~$500. Personally I think that the Mahle 98 mm piston/cylinder(for a short stroke 3.2) set is worth it, only you can answer that question for yourself. You may be able to get a better price by using J&E quite a few of the racers seem to be going that route. I also don't like CIS, the PMS carbs are nice, you may also want to investigate aftermarket fi. Motec is the best but is very expensive, there have been many references to more reasonably priced systems, check the archives here and at Rennlist.
You really should evaluate this rebuild in the context of the whole car, Is it a keeper in all other respects? it doesn't make sense to build an all out motor if you will just sell it in a few years.
Another option is a late 3.2 or 3.6 with motronic.

Adam,

You don't need to replace the top row of studs because the steel ones are not prone to crack in the next 20 years! Bruce Anderson addressed this exact question in his tech column in the April 2000 issue of Excellence, and he made the same recommendation I am. And, you don't need to go into the case, just to the point of removing the cylinders and pistons to be able to get at the bottom row of studs with a hair dryer or light bulb. The crankcase must be heated to 375 degrees F to melt the stud sealer compound, before trying to remove them.

If any of the exhaust valve guides show measurable wear, get all 12 valve guides replaced and the valves ground. Otherwise, just get the heads blasted with walnut hulls and slap them back on.

Replace the block oil thermostat O-ring, flywheel oil seal, crank nose oil seal, intermediate shaft seal ... while the engine is out. Replace all six chain ramps. If you aren't going to update the tensioners, if needed, install collars on the old tensioners. Turn all of the rocker arm shafts over 180 degrees, so wear will start on the 'other' side.

For performance 'enhancements, unless US$3,000 is burning a hole in your pocket, forget the Andial 98 mm P/Cs. For the best hp increase for the $$$, install a set of pre-75 heat exchangers and muffler, or SSIs and a sport muffler if an extra US$1100-1300 is in the budget ... the Web-Cam CIS cam regrinds are good, too, for a few ponies.

Good luck!

------------------
Warren Hall
1973 911S Targa

Thanks fellas, I'm going to look into prices on those parts. The 3000 for P&Cs is a little heavy right now but I'm going to keep it in mind. I for sure want to do the headers/muffler, turbo valve covers, chain tensioners. Hopefully there is no cylinder dammage (how can I tell without disassembling?) so the option to just keep to the basics is still there. Thanks again guys! And wish me luck, although I'm sure I'll have PLENTY more mosting on here while i'm in the process! This BBS is really incredible....

Adam Roseneck

------------------
atr911@hotmail.com

Adam,
You will have to disassemble to cylinder, Slide it off the piston, to get at the stud to be replaced. When you have the cylinder assembly removed you can inpsect the surfaces of the cylinder and also measure for the proper clearances.
Depending on how much work you are doing, pistons, etc. you will have to decide if you need a top rebuild kit or if the parts you are buying come equipped.

------------------
78 911SC

I don't know. If I had the engine removed, with 100,000 mi on it I would probably look at going through the whole thing. How much more would it cost you to split the case and check the mains and install new ones.

Although it may not need it, might as well do it as long as the engine is out. Remember, if you don't and put the engine back when something happens down the road, you may be kicking yourself for not doing it. just my opinion.

Steve

This all looks like real good advice and, Adam, we'll be here for you. I'm thinking of your decision as kind of an either/or thing. I would probably spend under $1,000, or over $5,000 (excluding stuff like exhaust and tensioners). Probably not in between.

Steve's advice above is excellent advice, as always. On the other hand, if there is a Porsche motor on which a top-end rebuild is aprpopriate at 100k miles, it is the SC motor.

further, since I would not be terrified of having to deal with another rebuild after another 100k miles, I would be highly tempted to perform the kamikaze/samurai engine repair. Besides gaskets it would include valve guide replacement, new rings, gaskets and 12 studs. I think you'd be good for another 100K miles.

By that time, the used 3.6 and 3.8 motors will be too tempting.



------------------
'83 SC

Before rebuilding, you may want to contact this guy selling a fresh rebuilt 2.7 for $1600! Sounds too good to be troo...

"FRESH REBUILT PORSCHE 2.7L engine, fresh rebuilt w Carrera tensioners, $1600 hear it run 805-375-1012"

http://www.recycler.com/asp/AdDetails.asp?iID=31342&sBAC=805&bSQ=0

Here is another 2.7 for sale...

"COMPLETE engine, 77 Porsche 911S, 70M since rebuilt, runs good, $1000 or best offer (310) 403-0773 "

http://www.recycler.com/asp/AdDetails.asp?iID=50427&sBAC=310&bSQ=0