Would you use this tool?
 

Hey guys, would you use this 12 point tool to remove those risky flywheel bolts or order new through Pelican?
Boy, I hate to strip those buggers!
Is there a difference in quality between them?
Purchased a set of four for $13.00 at local auto parts store. Regularly $24.00.
http://i472.photobucket.com/albums/r...anaz/001-3.jpg
Thanks,

Leakproof.

They all go bad after a time. You can grind the face to give you new surface. Even Snap On goes bad after a time. Like stud removers, they are consumable tools.
Bruce

Thanks, flat6pac for your response. I'm still trying to contemplate if the one from our host would be for any reason a better less risky choice?
I guess I could find the answere out in about five minute or so.
Just trying to prevent learning the hard way.

Leakproof.

While guys, I'm not going to sweat this one to much.
For $19.99 through our host I'll just order theirs.
Perhaps it's a better fit. Why risk it.

Thanks,

Leakproof.

I have used the local store-bought Lisle brand triple square/twelve point bits on my flywheel bolts and some CV joint bolts for a number of years and they're still serving me well. I'm not a pro-wrench, just an avid DIY guy.

I'm all for supporting Pelican because this place is invaluable. But when it comes to tools, get 'em local if you can and save yourself the hassle of waiting for something to ship. It's very frustrating for me to wait for tools and delay getting something done!

I got mine at the FLAPS. Used it... lent it out... used it again... no damage or anything *shrug* I actually bought a kit with multiple sizes. Never know!

best regards,

Michael

A dab of lapping compound on the tool helps it hold a better bite too!

Nothing wrong with that tool, your way over thinking this just use a deep socket to keep it from moving.

Hello,

It's been a while since I've messed with flywheel removal, but I'm thinking that on some of the models they are stretch bolts, so messing them up it bit, as long as you get them out might not matter, since you have to replace them anyways. Does anyone else know for sure?

Rutager

My lisle triple square has pulled off hundreds of flywheel bolts without issue. I did break one in half a while back (tool that is), but I have never stripped a bolt with one. I use an impact to remove them and I cut some length off of the tool to make it a little less cumbersome while toruquing them up.

yup id be more worried about snapping off the tool than stripping the bolts

An impact really helps with these types of bolts... I've used mine on probably 100 of them with no issues.

While guys, heres the tool within the first 2 seconds of attempting this feat.
http://i472.photobucket.com/albums/r...anaz/003-5.jpg
Bolt didn't even budge.
Doesn't look like any damage to the fastener. although they look a little worn. maybe from original install?
Looks like the tool failed instantly.
Needless to say I just ordered the 12 point socket tool from our host.
Yea, cgarr what exactly is lapping compound? sounds like a good idea. Perhaps I should use a impact drill?
Also what happens if a bolt breaks in that $4500.00 crank?
Whats the worse case scenario if I strip a fastner?
Maybe I should leave this to the pros?
I think I'm starting to stress.

Thanks,

Leakproof

The lapping compound, like valve lapping compound is a grit that helps the tool from slipping, used a lot with tight Phillips head screws and alike. Looks like your tool was not a good quality to do the job, it should not do that, good that you got a good one coming, otherwise its the same tool used on many head bolts on engines now a days. I dont know if your bolts had any loctite on them but if they did a quick shot of heat will loosen it too.

9 bolt cranks only torque to 66 ftlb. an impact gets them off easily, as well as a breaker bar. the tough ones are the 6 bolt craks that torque to around 115 ftlb. the trick with those is to take a heavy ball peen hammer or mallet and give them each a sharp wack square on top of each bolt before attempting to loosen them. then use the breaker bar.

Hmmm, I used the cheap auto store ones and they worked great.
Better hope the $19 set works or could turn out to be a real PITA.

Strip the head and you will be making one of these.

Look closely and you will see the flywheel bolt on the end (from 6 bolt crank).

Sometimes desperate times call for desperate measures.

+1 for the solid whack on the bolts first. Good luck Leakproof.


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1247106183.jpg

I've always and inevitably found that you can buy cheap tools a number of times or the right tool once.

First off, I really want to thank you guys for all your excellent advice/knowledge.
This site is unbelievable!
Cgarr, thanks for getting back to me on the lapping compound.
J.w. workshop, you made me feel much better about the situation, luckily I have 9 bolts.
I sure hope this does not become a PITA Wowzer911.
9elf, I won't even ask, at least not yet.
Now that I'm done with all my thank yous I sure hope this all works out when I attempt it for the second time. Perhaps it will be a piece of cake.
Will definitely let you know how this pans out.

Leakproof.

I've used cheap Chinese tools a few times and ended up spending too much time fixing the damage. Use good tools

I would not use ANY tool of whatever brand that is again.

A good quality set of bits is requirement to have. Not the place too be cheap with tools.

All I can say is.... see page five of the thread in my signature--halfway down the page. Start looking for the pictures of the hacksaw, and a frustrated middle-aged white guy.

The ironic thing is that 95% of all my auto tools are Craftsmen. (hopefully ok)
I specify in all my plumbing contracts, that I never use home center bought plumbing materials, never import, except brass. Only American, German, and Italian faucets. ( I'm sure there are other quality ones out there)
Never by cheap tools for all other things I'm involved with.( Except some throw aways sometimes make sense) I'm a firm believer in domestic pipe and fittings (Professionally purchased only) which are a much better grade. I guess the moral of the story is you pretty much get what you pay for.
Kinda like eating a $40.00 steak versus a $4.00 select. I'm sure there are plenty of import tools that are quality, it's hard to decipher the difference sometimes.

Thats why they call me....
Leakproof.

unless you are certain that no Red Loctite was used when those bolts were installed, I'd hit them with a torch before smacking the head and using impact to loosen...

A torch is not a problem. I wish I would have thought about that two hours ago when I broke 6 exhaust studs... Ouch.. Man am I butchering things.

Leakproof.

yup i find even a little propane torch can go a long way loostening things

Porsche didn't use loctite from the factory, if that helps.

This was so easy it was ridiculous. Thanks Pelican for the quality tool. I can't believe how fast you got it to me. These bolts came out like butter. Perhaps spraying them with penetrating oil every day for a week helped. I actually feel a little silly.

thanks,

Leakproof.http://i472.photobucket.com/albums/r...anaz/004-6.jpg

"every day for a week"

time & tapping on the thing are the key factors in using penetrating oil effectively

I don't see anything on the threads so looks like red loctite was not used - a torch alwyas helps persuade the fasteners that they are unwelcome tho...

Yea, I hit each one with a hammer before I successfully removed them.
And from what I understand they do stretch. So I will order nine new fasteners for re-assembly.

Leakproof.