Roof Drain & Parcel Shelf Rust (A bit long-winded)
 

Hello to All

First off, my car is a 1970. It is relatively rust free (really!) car save for what seem to be chronic problem areas which I have attempted to show in the accompanying photos. The question is, are there or were there, any drain holes at pts. ‘B’ or ‘C’? I’ve tried a number of searches & found a ton of good info, but nothing on the aforementioned drains. I know they exist on some later models. Pts. ‘A’ & ‘B’ show where the rust has gone through the bodywork. The 3rd photo shows where I removed the ‘crumbly’ metal at the perforations on the shelf with my dremel with the intent of fibreglassing/patching the holes. The shelf & the remainder of the firewall are both very sound & rust free other than what you see in the photos. There are 'fist- sized' holes at both corners where the rear pillars & the parcel shelf meet. You can see one at the left rear. Most of this cutting (unfinished as yet) was done before I read Milt’s post on Por-15 & using glass mat together to patch & possibly strengthen the affected areas. Any help or info or suggestions you could pass my way regarding refurbishing the rear pillar & parcel shelf mating points & the drain holes would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers
JB
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Drainage holes: I don't have any info on the drainage holes for your car but mine, a 78 has them.
There is a tube from the sunroof going to these holes so i would assume they were only on sunroof model cars.

The rear shelf: If you patch with Por15 and mat it will look OK for a while but it will not hold up.
The heat and vibration in this area is working against you...

You need a new parcel shelf and someone who can weld to fix this properly.

I would estimate a cost of about $1,200 to get this welded by a professional. (includes the cost of good second hand shelf)
If you go this way you won't regret it even if it seems expensive.

BTW: I have used Por15 many times for my own car and workshop projects. It's a great product.

there is only one way to fix rust, cut it out and replace with sound metal.
you've got a long hood, you should do it right.

I replaced the shelf on my '70. The panel is not available new, so I sourced one from a dismantler (EASY in Emeryville). The old panel can be removed by drilling out all of the spot welds that hold it in place. There are a LOT of them. I did this for both the panel in my car, and in the donor panel. I hired a body shop to weld it in place and epoxy prime the engine compartment. I got away without repainting the narrow strip between the rear window and engine lid, but I did need to paint the engine compartment jamb. It is a lot of work, and wasn't cheap, even with all of the work I did myself, but it feels good knowing that it is fixed properly, and that if I'm smart about it I will never have to repeat the effort.

Basically, a lot of elbow grease will get you a long way toward fixing this.

No drain holes in those locations unless the car had a sunroof and then it was only for the exit of the tubes from the sunroof pan. What you see is the classic result of leaking rear window seals. I agree with Peter, do the repair correctly and cut out all rust and weld in new or replacement metal. Once you clean away the corner areas, you will see the extent of the rust--remember, those areas rusted from the inside. If you want to really save your longhood, I'd suggest going the harder, more permanent route of cutting and welding.

I agree re sunroof - it may be hard to find with a search, but I have seen numerous pics of people doing this sort of repair.

metal or FG mat?

- If that is all there is, then FG mat should not induce additional body flex. No idea re noise or heat intrusion, but you'd be safer just welding in metal pieces...

Hi Guys

Thanks for the input. So far it's unanimous; replace the shelf. I am starting to get some of those (with humblest apologies to Jim Croce) "steadily depressing low-down-mind-messing working on my parcel shelf blues". I find it a bit difficult at this time, getting my head wrapped around the fact it should be replaced. The rust damage to the shelf (other than the body perforations) constitutes something less than 10% of the total surface area. The shelf really is in good shape IMHO. I think I shall concentrate on the electrical & braking systems (the interior, window seals etc. need quite a bit of work also) until I am ready to make that, for me at least, quantum leap on a total replacement. I'll have to set up an appointment with the resident 'minister of finance' see about an increase in my P-car allowance. Once again, your thoughts & appraisals on this matter are most appreciated & I will of course, keep posting updates re: the progress I make on the project. I've attached a photo taken by the PO (about 12-15 yrs. ago). It has spent the last 10 or so yrs. in non-drivable condition & wasn't stored under the best of conditions, so a number of issues need to be addressed before it is a safe & roadworthy car. The exterior has held up extremely well, all things considered.

Cheers
JBhttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1247845616.jpg

Thanks Randy

Whether viable/practical or not, it is nice to know there are options to be had.

Cheers
JB