Engine almost out!

Been following a couple of checklists for dropping the engine on my 72 911E. Both of them mention disconnecting the ground strap that runs from the transmission to the transmission tunnel and the speedometer cable that is connected to the transmission. I can't find either one! Do these apply to a 72 911? If so where are they? Everything else has gone smoothly with the exception of the wiring to the alternator. Apparently on newer 911's the main wiring harness has a disconnect to separate it from the body. On mine I had to disconnect everything including pulling the alternator to remove the wires from the back of it. Did I miss some quick disconnect or is this what you have to do on the wiring on my 72? Thanks for the help and the engine should be out and on a stand this weekend!

Kurt V
72 911E

Come on guys, somebody help me out here! I want to drop this sucker tonight!

Kurt V
72 911E

OK, Kurt, I won't have much time today but, see if this helps ... yes, your car had both ground strap and speedo cable when it left the factory! Both are attached to the forward-most piece called the nosecone, where the shift rod comes out, on the right side. The ground strap is HARD TO MISS, as it is a flat, braided piece of copper, about 1.25" wide and 1/8" thick, bolted to the pan with an M8 hex bolt (13 mm head) and a flat, oversize diameter washer. At the nosecone on the lower right corner the speedo cable is attached with a large knurled ferrule, tin/nickel plated, I believe, and it has a black plastic cable sheath that comes straight out pointed towards the front of the car ... just unscrew the ferrule/nut/cap and the cable comes out, but it may have undercoating on it.

You also need to remove or loosen the shift coupler from inside the car, under the cover with four screws over the tunnel just forward of the two jump seats in back. Good luck, and check back with the board tonight if you have other problems.

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Warren Hall
1973 911S Targa

Rich Boylan told me to buy a furniture dolly from Home Depot. Screw a piece of 3/4" plywood to the top and jack the whole thing up under the engine. I found the engine and transmission balance point was about 6" forward of the center of the oil strainer pan, that’s where the head of your jack should be.

When I lowered the engine I held both ends of the rear support bar where the bolts go for the mounts while my wife operated the jack. This gives you good leverage fore and aft and also side to side. Lower the rear far enough to be able to move the engine backwards and get the shift rod out of body. At this point I blocked the engine up (see below) and carefully checked that nothing remained attached to the engine. Now you can lower it straight to the ground and it can be moved around on the dolly and jack.

I used 4x4 and 2x4 wood blocks to make sure the engine could not move down more than 2" at a time. It was probably overkill, I found the key is to have it balanced so that it is heavier toward the gearbox because it is easier to push down on the engine support bar than pull up on it.

Good luck.

Warren and Allan: You da Men! You da Men! (Dancing around in my office. I am so easily amused)

Kurt V
72 911E

Doesn't hurt to be overly cautious the first time you do this. However you will probably be surprised at just how easy it is.

There is a sense of accomplishment and pride when that engine is finally on the floor. It's a beautiful thing.

Is this drop for the SSI heat exchangers you talked about installing in the "Gallery"? I didn't know you actually had to drop the engine to accomplish that. Are you doing anything else to it while its out? Just curious.
regards,
jlex.

Kurt,

I just remembered ... you will also need to disconnect the backup light switch, too, at the front! It has a 1 foot long or so 2-wire pigtail and disconnects.

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Warren Hall
1973 911S Targa

Thanks Warren, but I had found those two wires on my own! I'm removing the engine to clean it up and fix the oil leaks. It should make it much easier to pull the heat exchangers also. They are very rusty now that I can see them out of the car. I might just take a reciprocating saw and cut them away to have easier access to the exhaust nuts.

Kurt V
72 911E