My RUF style front works fine for all but the fastest turns on a few of the tracks I run. I'm just looking for an edge. And if you look at my original pic, you'll see that I have a lower lip extending about 2" below the valance, made of .21" conveyor belting. It doesn't deflect one bit at 120 based on a couple pics I have. So just make sure the Ruf you ordered has the molded in raised lip to attach the rubber spoiler to and you'll be fine for most situations.

If you're up for a really fun project, I've been wanting to do this. Not sure of it's legality in various racing classes though.
http://www.elephantracing.com/project/oilcooler/oilcoolermain.htm

Actually it's the other way around - Alumalite has a poly honeycomb core and thin aluminum faces. Great stuff though, and I was thinking of suggesting this a few days ago. I own a sign shop, and we also use Alucobond (Dibond is another brand), which is a solid poly core with aluminum faces. The thinner stuff, in a piece as small as a splitter, would also be light and durable. Both materials are a dream to cut (hand sabre saw or digital control router) and easy to work with. The Alucobond would offer a more solid material to screw through, and the thinner stuff could be curved, if you wanted to use it to fill the vertical gap between the splitter and the bottom of the bumper.

There's a great thread on venting the hood here

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/455515-how-vent-you-hood.html?highlight=hood+vent

one of these days http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1248366091.gif

I suggest the dive planes / canards too. Chris Streit put them on his 965 front end of his '70 911S Turbo-Look 965 race car and he said they made a noticeable difference.

Here's a short thread on the winglets/canards/dive planes

Front Downforce- Canards, Winglets, Dive Planes, and Some Good Humor Too

Aerodynamics was not my specialty (it was machine design), but I know enough to recognize some serious misinformation in that thread. Most of the dive plane info seems ok, though.

How about this:

http://www.rennspd.com/P_Detail.asp?PID=389&Task=STD

Othersize make your own. Put a pice of plywood under your front to set the lower plane, tape cardboard in the back to act as a dam, wax you bumper well. The foam the area you want to have you spliter occupy.

After it is dry, carve out the shape you want and glass it for finish. Way to much work for me.

Anoter thought, you could lengthen the front you have by sectioning it just under the bumper line and lower the bottom section and fill in the gapwith fiber glass mat. (I would section down and around the oil cooler opening or through it if I wanted larger).

Interestingly, that was one of my thoughts too. But that's a winter project, not something I'm going to be able to do over the next couple weeks with other projects on the list. Thought I'd call Brad at BW Motorsport who made the original bumpers and see if he'd take it on as a project.

Kevin- I've seen Chris's front artwork and I'm sure it works well. might have to do some simple dive planes for now.

Graham,

Care to elaborate? The thread I linked was fairly short with not much "design" information. I'm curious to know how those little winglets can provide a noticeable benefit.

For Ed, In the meantime i'd block off the front grille opening with something to direct that incoming air in somewhat beneficial manner. As it sits right now it's likely spilling in and around the front tub instead of being dammed at the face of the bumper?

I have an IROC front bumper with a grille in it and no front center cooler. I would have left it fiberglass, but MA Shaw pre-cut the hole for me. So I had no choice but to dress it up with some mesh screening. I'll place a plastic plate over the screen and see what it does for me. Can always use some more front grip!

I don't like the explanations for why Jack's front wing didn't work, and why you aren't supposed to move the rear wing forwards. If you have a well-chosen airfoil in "clean" air flow, they will work just fine. The wings will not suck the car off the ground.
Two examples that spring to mind are the recent Scion tC which set the FWD record at Willow Springs and the Chaparral 2E.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1248450156.jpg

Sorry for hijacking... I suppose I should be posting this in the other thread.

Oil cooler inlet is blocked off with a metal plate. Part of the reason I'm hesitating installing a cooler in the nose is because of the added air that could get under the car.

Had a conversation earlier today with Brad at BW Motorsport and we're going to try to modify one of his 964RS type splitters to work with this valance. But that's a winter project and one we'll have to experiment with.

Here what I did on my car sometime ago and it did a difference at VIR. On the back straight like you said the car was light on the hump, not anymore. I'm going there in the few weeks, since that time I built a wing, I will see how much of difference the wing do.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/365682-j-olsen-inspired-flat-bottom.html