How the F*$&! Do I get this apart
 

How do I remove the steering column and ignition switch from my '90 C4? I drilled out two bolts (with round heads--what is that about) that attach the column to the leading edge of the dash. I also drilled out the mystery round head bolts that hold the ignition switch in. Now the column is hanging there attached to the ignition switch...how do I separate them so that I can remove this da** thing!

Am I making this more complicated then it needs to be? Of coarse, neither the 993 or 964 workshop manuals have procedures for removal...


I am having the car chemically stripped and need to have everything removed...I will let you know how much all of that undercoating weighs. After stripping, the car gets etched and then I am having the entire car powderpainted...

Your prompt replies would be greatly appreciated since I planned to drop the car off at the strippers tomorrow...I am getting a little tired of stripping, cleaning, polishing--ready to do some of the fun stuff...

Thanks David

this is something I have wondered about

Sorry I do not have the answer to your question.

But powdercoating a whole P-car.
That sound cool...nver have to worry (too much) about rock chips and such.

If you don't mind how much is this endevor going to cost..?
Advantages and disadvantages to the old school method?

Also I have heard chemical dip (ius that what you are doing) is bad because that ***** get into all nooks and crannies and if you don't completely flush it out it can come back to haunt you...

Well good luck

MJ

I've never heard of having an entire car powder coated! Other than the cost (wow, isn't it going to be a ton??), how are you going to get the powdercoating perfectly smooth? (powdercoating is usually highly orange-peeled). Are you planning on smoothening it out by colorsanding? Also, if the car gets damaged, won't it be hard or impossible to repair (like color match, etc.?)
Or, are you talking about just powdercoating the chassis, and painting the outside of the panels in the normal fashion?
Thanks!

I figured I may get a few questions...here is an overview of the process, rough costs, and some pictures.

I still need help with the origional topic...

To powder paint a car, it must have all dirt, grease, paint, etc removed. Powderpaint sticks well to metal, but not so well to other things. Chemically dipping the entire chassis is the most effective. Everything is removed from the car, including wiring harnesses, and the entire tub is submerged in a caustic solution to remove all adhesive, undercoating, seam sealer, body filler, and paint. If rust is present, a diluted acid solution is used to remove it. The process is neutralized with water, and a coat of oil stops the chassis from rusting until the painting and body work are done.

After being stripped, the car is pressure washed with a phosphoric acid solution to etch the metal. After being etched, the piece is placed in an oven and heated to remove any moisture in and on the metal. Any section of the part that should not be powder painted is covered with a fiberglass tape or filled in with a silicone plug. This will prevent any powder from inadvertently getting into any of these places, and these materials will not burn when heated.

When all moisture is removed from the metal, an electrode is clipped on to give a negative charge. The powder is then sprayed on completely dry in a similar fashion to conventional paint. The positively charged powder ionically sticks to the negative metal. The ionic charge ensures that the entire piece gets covered; powder will find cavities and orifices that normal spray paint cannot. The powder is applied while the chassis is still warm, and a second coat is applied after the first is "baked."

Once the part is sufficiently covered, it is placed into the oven a second time. The temperature is raised to around 350 degrees F. Once the oven reaches this temperature, the paint is baked for about 20 minutes, and the powder essentially melts into a liquid. because the paint clings to the metal ionically, powderpaint will not build up in one area and run as it becomes liquid. even when at maximum temperature, the powderpaint remains quite thick and viscous and won't drip down the piece from gravity. The piece is then removed from the oven and allowed to cool naturally back to room temperature. During this time, the powder re-solidifies and produces the smooth, thick look that is apparent with all powderpainting.

After the base color is applied, a clear coat I applied for a glossy finish. The clear coat is basically just another color of powderpaint and the process is the same as for a color. The clear coat goes on as an opaque white; this is very helpful in making sure the entire piece is covered. The clear is baked, just like before, and when the piece is removed and cooled it has a deep gloss and looks wet even though it is dry and durable.

This process is very involved compared to spray painting, but the result is a very durable and smooth run-free finish that is not possible with spray paint.

Things like bumper covers are color matched and painted with a traditional spray paint process.

What does it cost…chemical stripping is $1.40 per pound—figure typical Porsche runs 680 lbs, Body Work $1500, Powderpaint $2000-3000, +++

Check out these pictures…

http://images.honesty.com/imagedata/...6/29043642.jpg

http://images.honesty.com/imagedata/h/904/36/29043637.jpg

http://images.honesty.com/imagedata/h/904/36/29043640.jpg

http://images.honesty.com/imagedata/h/904/36/29043641.jpg

http://images.honesty.com/imagedata/h/904/36/29043643.jpg

David

[This message has been edited by David Griswold (edited 02-27-2001).]

Wayyy cool David.

That is sooooo far over the edge I stared at it for 5 minutes with my mouth hanging open. I freekin LOVE IT!!!!

Incredible, its just like all the new BMWs. Same process. It really looks good, if only I had the cash....

Adam Roseneck

I believe your C4's ignition switch is probably about the same as my '80. I had to tear it apart recently as well. Sounds like you've already drilled out the screws. If you look behind the dash between the ignition switch and steering column, you should see the housing that contains the shaft that acts as the steering wheel lock. If I remember correctly, there is a lock nut that must be loosened then you can remove the ellen screw that is held in place by the locknut. This should allow you to remove the whole ignition and steering lock and hopefully ease your job of removing the steering column.

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'80 Targa