Cigars for everyone!!

The throttle is working thanks to all. I lengthened the linkage arm on the engine to compensate and now can control the engine from the pedal.

The linkage was binding and the throttle plate was sticking open. There is still a lot of slop in the linkage from the pedal and I'll replace all the bushings and re adjust.

But she started blowing smoke thru the exhaust after ~ 3 minutes. I checked the oil tank filler, remember this is a 1972 and oil was coming over the screen!! I added 4 quarts of oil cold to read on the dip stick.

Time to drain about 4 quarts of oil. I'm thinking about adding Marvel Mystery oil and then dumping it in about 100 miles.

Where do you drain 4 quarts of oil? Oil tank or engine drain?

The engine is missing, might be the extra oil.

Thanks again

The excess oil can get in the CIS box and air filter. Check that.

The easiest way to drain some oil is with an oil ‘sucker’ you can get from most autoparts stores. In a pinch, a turkey baster will work.

We need to confirm that the smoke is from the excess oil and not something mechanical. If mechanical (broken ring), you can do damage running it. Now might be the time to look at the sparkplugs, check compression and measure the cylinder leak.

Leave the Marvel Mystery Oil out. That is best when preserving an engine for storage.


Since you have a ’72, a word of caution is prudent. When you open the oil filler ‘door’, have your hand preventing the door hitting the stop when ‘springing’ open. If it hits the limit of travel, it can (will!) break the NLA hinge.

Take care of the ’72 only dipstick. It is also NLA.

Best,
Grady

Thanks to everyone's help I have her running now. It doesn't come off of idle real good but once she hit 3000rpm she pulls real strong. The smoke coming out of the exhaust has subsided now but I have noted another oil leak.

Oil is leaking onto the passenger side heat exchanger from the oil cooler - I can see it dripping. I can't tell if it a leak from the oil cooler or something above the oil cooler. Also, it seems the oil in the oil tank splashes /bubbles over into the top drain/breather?? that may lead toward the cooler.

Do I need to drop the engine to fix fix this leak?

Thanks again.

Dave K

1972 911 w/ 1973.5 CIS engie

Drop the engine!

It does not take that long with help of a few friends. After some years most of the hoses needs to be replaced. Replace also the rubber conectors on the intake runners and the sleves that holds the injectors to the head. Vacum leaks is to be avoided on a CIS engine. Check also the fuel hoses.

Imho it justifies to remove the engine just for a valve adjustment job.

I'm planning on dropping the engine this weekend and have a few questions.

Where does the breather line from the top of the gas tank connect to? The reason why I ask is that it only leak oil ( it drips from the bottom of the oil cooler)only after it come to temperature. You can see the oil bubbling over into the breather tube in the oil tank after it gets to temperature ~ 170 degrees.

Also where does the thermostat line coming off the top of the engine go to?

How do you test the thermostat?

I got the engine running decently but still have a problem on cold start. My plan is to chase down vacuum leaks and replace lines- vacuum, oil and fuel while the engine is out.

Thanks again for everyone's help.

Dave

Dave,

Earlier you admitted to overfilling the oil, it may still be too full. The oil level must be checked after the car is warm. Then the level should be half way between the 2 marks - not up to full. What happens is that the excess oil is sucked into the air filter housing. At the base of the air filter housing is a drain hose that conveniently dumps over the front passenger side of the engine, drains down the oil cooler and onto the hot heat exchanger on the passenger side.

While pulling your engine allows you fix many things easily, I don't want you to have to pull the engine just for this.

Thanks Rex.

I'll re check the oil level and report back.

Dave

I drained out enough oil and it read just below the low mark on the dip stick. It started dripping oil again in the same place - thru the oil cooler and down to the heat exchangers. The leak started after the engine got to temperature and you can see it drip.

Looks like I'm going to drop the engine.

Any thoughts ? Oil cooler seals? Cracked oil cooler?

Could it be the thermostat?

Thanks,

The usual suspects:

http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/911_oil_leaks/911_oil_leaks.htm

No getting around dropping the engine?

I finally got around to dropping the engine. This is a 1973.5 CIS engine in a 1972 car that sat for two years.

My main objective is to fix the oil leak, clean up the engine and adjust the valves.The CIS has been taken off for cleaning and checking for leaks.

Oil leak- The oil leak is coming thru the bottom of the oil cooler, onto the oil tube and on to the heat exchanger- not good. I took off the cooler and passenger side valve covers to determine the flow path but can't tell. The breather gasket and thermostat o-ring seem ok. Question- If the thermostat o ring leaks does the leak show up on the outside of the case and down thru the oil cooler? Also, at what PSI do you test the oil cooler? I noticed that there appears to be an oil path thru one of the lower oil cooler seals. (closer seal to the case).

Rocker arms- The rocker arm can twist as well as follow the cam. What is the max clearance between the the rocker shaft and brass bushing that fits in the rocker arm? Are these bushing still available? If this clearance is excessive can this sound like valve tapping or impede in proper valve clearance repeatability ?

CIS- The PET shows a gasket between the intake runner and head- these weren't on mine.

I plan the replace all of the fuel hose from the tunnel back as well as the vacuum hose. New fuel injectors came with the car along with new injector seals and new hard plastic fuel line, which I will replace as well.

All in all the engine seems solid and has never been apart. The engine didn't want to start cold but I'll deal with that after the engine goes back in.

Any and all comments will be appreciated before I start ordering parts.

Without re-reading the whole thread, now that the engine is out I'd suggest you replace all seals and hoses of unknown age, especially those that are on the rear of the engine (flywheel side), even if they show no signs of leaking or cracks (hoses). It's a small price to pay for the peace of mind that new oil and air leaks will not likely develop.

Can't comment on the rocker arm but someone will advise.

In short, now is the time, with the engine out, to get the "while you're in there" stuff done--you won't regret it (once you get past the initial outlay of $$.)

Personally, I love the 72's regardless of the engine installed. Keep us up to date on your progress and show some pics of what you're into, if possible.

One other thing on the 73.5 is the control valve mounted on the throttle body. It modifys fuel pressure according to throttle position ... specific to the 73.5 only. I changed one a 2.4, stepped on the throttle and went to red line. It was that control valve that stuck in rotation.

Oh, I have never found an adjustment procedure for that item in any manual, factory or otherwise.

Scrappy,

same thing happened to me.....right to redline! I thought it was just the throttle plate sticking.

My hard cold starting might be caused by the PO poorly retrofitting a CIS engine into a 1972 coupe. The 72 doesn't have the cold start valve and wur electrical connects. :eek: I decided to pull the CIS to clean and test out of the car. Replacing all lines gaskets and potential leak paths.

On another matter......do you know the max clearance of the rocker arm shaft to brass bushing fit? Inquiring minds would like to know.

Thanks,