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Flowmaster install questions
So, this is the tread that lead lead me to purchase a Flowmaster and a few mandrel bent pipes. Now I have a few questions...
1) Unlike the install in the linked thread, I want to retain the blower pipe that feeds the heat exchangers. Any one done this install? Anyone have photos? The best I can come up with is removing the little muffler support off the blower pipe, and welding a short piece of 1.25" bar stock to the muffler to catch the upper OEM mount. 2) How much clearance are y'all leaving above/around the muffler? The Flowmaster hangs low. In light of that, I'd like to get it as high as possible and yet avoid burning the paint off the rear bumper or valance. |
to hook up like astons you dont remove heater pipe , it is just a striaght muffler replacement. i'd pm aston he sent me requested info im sure he could clear you upSmileWavy
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I managed to squeeze the flowmaster in and keep the cross over pipe (it's not in the pic but it will fit) I fabricated a bracket out of 0.125 steel strip to hang the muffler off the stock bracket. The muffler was tilted back slightly to maximize clearance and allow it to be tucked up out of the way. btw the Mcmaster Carr clamps work great. |
Agreed you want to get the muffler up high. But even putting it as high as you can, it'll still hang low. Aston has the right idea with tilting it. However tilting it will bring it close to the bumper and that'll get the bumper hot. If you have an alloy stock bumper, i'd not worry about the heat. Most any muffler is going to get a bumper hot. However if you have a fiberglass bumper, the heat is a big concern because over time your bumper will start to warp and get bumpy looking along the top surface.
The 1-in 2-out muffler size should help with the heat a little bit. My smaller Dynomax 1-1 gets very hot and the bumper is nearly too hot to touch. I lined the inside of the bumper with some heat reflective silica fabric (from McMaster of course..... :D ) and it helped a little bit. I eventually switched to headers this year, so the Dynomax is shelved and the M&K shorties are a non-issue with heat. |
KTL thanks for the heads up. I will prob go for a FG bumper at some point. I'll plan on a heat shield and insulation.
And another thing....I tilted the tail pipes up very slightly which attracted some negative press. But when I unload the Porsher from the trailer I am very pleased for every ounce of clearance I can get ;-) |
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Do your homework before installing. I just upgraded to a turbo and fab'ed a bracket that used the motor mount bolts. My muffler is less than an inch from the lower valance and have had no issues yet. You want to generally leave air space around the muffler. However, close contact in a couple of small places shouldn't be an issue, assuming the surrounding material can handle the heat. Good luck. |
maybe this pic of mine will help. I did not install it myself but rather took it to a local muffler shop and they did the welding.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1250643041.jpg Rear shot: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1250643094.jpg Here's how it sounds: <object width="425" height="344"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/rOCVOT6wFt0&hl=en&fs=1&"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/rOCVOT6wFt0&hl=en&fs=1&" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"></embed></object> <object width="425" height="344"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/nALyBx8K75E&hl=en&fs=1&"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/nALyBx8K75E&hl=en&fs=1&" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"></embed></object> |
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