Brake Rebuild

[Red69t]

Hello all, I am rebuilding my front calipers and hard/soft brake lines. The hard lines are original to the car...I snagged a prefabbed set of hardlines from Sierra Madre, but had a question on the setup - there is no rubber grommet or washer when these connect to the banjo bolts/soft lines/master cylinder right? It's just tighten with a flare wrench and go from there?

Also, on the rotors - there's no bad pitting/lip/or wear on my rotors, but they have not been changed in awhile so I figured I would swap them out. However, I have having trouble getting the cap off that covers the hub. Any tips on this? Heat/Kroil? So far I've only tried prying it off with a screw driver and a big set of adjustable pliers to no avail.

Thanks in advance for your help!

Tim

[bkreigsr]

Wheel hub grease cap removal?

how to remove bearing dust cap

[Steam Driver]

To aid bearing cap removal go to your local auto parts store and get a muffler clamp (U-bolt type) of appropriate size (I forget the size so measure. 2-3/8 comes to mind but not sure.) and clamp it around the cap in the groove. This gives something substantial to pry against.

[Zaz]

I literally just did this today- used a small piece of scrap wood with a hammer to chisel/tap them off, go lightly and turn 1/4 at a time.

[Cory M]

To answer your first question - yes, no rubber grommet, the lines are flared, just tighten with the appropriate flare wrench.

I've had the best success removing stubborn caps with a huge set of channel locks, grab it from the from and rock back and forth until it works its way out.

[BrakeL8]

Originally Posted by Cory M

To answer your first question - yes, no rubber grommet, the lines are flared, just tighten with the appropriate flare wrench.

I've had the best success removing stubborn caps with a huge set of channel locks, grab it from the from and rock back and forth until it works its way out.

I'd heard this and I still couldn't get it done. My method was to ALSO strike the channel lock tops w/ a dead blow hammer and was able to get it done this way. Marred the caps a bit- but cosmetic only.

Next time I'd probably use a large punch approach and just be prepared to do it in 10% increments w/ the wheel spinning like crazy patiently to walk it off.

Just in case this helps OP

Found this video at 3:44 very insightful for what to try next time: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PjFY7-IHgvQ

[dannobee]

Get a pair of Snap On GCP10 dust cap pliers off of ebay. I've removed literally hundreds of caps over the years and there really isn't any easier way. If you look at the edge of the pliers, the jaws have a sharpened edge to wedge themselves between the cap and the hub. If they're still stuck, a few taps on the tool (not the cap, which will deform) will get the tool to bite.

[mepstein]

I just hit it with a brass hammer. Pops right off in a couple hits.

[Red69t]

Thanks, all, for the suggestions. Much appreciated!

I've gotten all the hard and soft lines fitted, calipers back on the car and am now bleeding the system for the first time. I hooked up the PowerBleeder, brought it to about 10 psi pressure.....and realized the top of the T connection on the master cylinder, the hard line that goes to passenger side was a bit loose. Tightened that up, but then brake fluid came pouring out of a long tube in front of the driver's side front fender. Released pressure, went back to the the rear passenger caliper, loosened the bleeder screw...and ended up running out of fluid.

What am I missing here? Release pressure on the bleeder screw first, then attach the powerbleeder and bring up to pressure? After bubbles are out, and the screw is tightened back up do i release pressure on the powerbleeder or maintain it and move to driver's rear caliper and repeat?

Thanks in advance for the help guys....car has been off the road for 3 months and I am eager to get her back in fighting shape!

Tim

[BrakeL8]

Originally Posted by Red69t

Thanks, all, for the suggestions. Much appreciated!

I've gotten all the hard and soft lines fitted, calipers back on the car and am now bleeding the system for the first time. I hooked up the PowerBleeder, brought it to about 10 psi pressure.....and realized the top of the T connection on the master cylinder, the hard line that goes to passenger side was a bit loose. Tightened that up, but then brake fluid came pouring out of a long tube in front of the driver's side front fender. Released pressure, went back to the the rear passenger caliper, loosened the bleeder screw...and ended up running out of fluid.

What am I missing here? Release pressure on the bleeder screw first, then attach the powerbleeder and bring up to pressure? After bubbles are out, and the screw is tightened back up do i release pressure on the powerbleeder or maintain it and move to driver's rear caliper and repeat?

Thanks in advance for the help guys....car has been off the road for 3 months and I am eager to get her back in fighting shape!

Tim

You have to crimp the overflow line, prior to pressurizing the power bleeder.

Either a hose crimp tool at any auto parts store or some use vise grips.

Then ensure it’s holding pressure steady, THEN open your first bleed screw and bleed.


You’ll need to remove the bleeder and add brake fluid (if you are not filling the power bleeder like I do not any many recommend) direct into the master cylinder.

I had to refill and re-pressurize 4 or 5 times during my bleed after rebuild (full flush of old fluid too)

That’s your issue I believe. Don’t let it run dry and get air in, I believe this complicates things.

[Red69t]

Ahh ok great. Yeah wasn't sure about the overflow hose, so I will crimp that and buy a few extra tins of brake fluid since my first liter has given a nice slick on the floor of my garage.

[jlex]

Just make sure you keep that stuff off your paint... you can make a real problem for yourself if you're not careful.