![]() |
Power window switch taking off question.
I can take the switch off without removing anything and breaking any pins? Call me lazy but I am hoping I can just prying it out?
Today, the passenger switch just suddently stuck hard as rock. It won't flick neither up nor down, but switch on the driver side (for passenger window) still worked. Later on, the switch on the driver side won't work anymore, it's still flick up and down but passenger window won't move. Driver's window still work. I guess the passenger's switch was stuck at the ON possition and killed the motor. Am I correct? |
Yes, you can just gently pry the switches out of the door panel. There is a thin metal grommet so be sure you are prying on the switch so as not to bend the grommet. The wires are connected with spade/blade terminals.
|
Be aware - the wires can be VERY short. When getting the switch out, do it slowly so you don't pull the wires off the back of the switch before you have a chance to mark them. There are 5 wires that will need to be installed on the proper tab when reinstalling.
I had to reach behind the switch with some needle nose pliers to pull more wires out so I would have more room to work. |
thanks guys.
|
All the power for your passenger window passes through the switch on the passenger side. Chances are your motor is fine and one or both of your switches are fried... much cheaper and easier replacement.
I've taken my doors a part a few times (including 2 days ago)... no problems on mine with wire length, but do pull gently..... If i did this right, there's a wiring diagram attached... otherwise, PM me and I'll send it to you.... |
One more hint.
Prior to pulling the switch, pull fuse #1 (25A) blue. Working on "hot" circuits is no fun. Fuse #1 first feeds the driver's side passenger window switch, then driver's side window switch, and lastly, the passenger side passenger window. (Red/Black wire on contact #5)). Assuming that the driver's side switch for the passenger window is ok, you will most likely only need a switch for the passenger side. These switches don't realy "fry" but when the internals break, the switch armature no longer makes contact with the switch post. Good luck, Gerry http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1251995888.jpg |
wow, thanks so much. This is more than I asked for.
Strange thing is that the passenger switch stuck first. Second, switch on driver side for passenger window stopped working (not stuck). Then now, it's working (the driver side switch for passenger window). Do you guys think some components such as relay or switch can be messed up when it gets extreme hot? It was extreme hot these days in SCal. |
The switches are crap. I've replaced the drivers side two times. The pass. side switch got stuck so it wouldn't move. Tried it again a few days later and it's been fine ever since.
|
When you get a replacement switch, spring for a quality one. The cheaper ones (from Mexico?) are crap and will quickly break if they ever work at all.
Argo 88 Targa |
wow. This is what I am experiencing. Sometimes works, sometimes doesn't. It seem like it works fine when it's cold. When it get too hot, stop working. Although, they all been fine for years until now.
PS: I might put in a camry or accord switch :D |
The ones I've replaced were bought at the local Porsche dealer, if there are cheaper ones to be had, God help whoever buys them.
|
I bought mine from autowarehouse.com. I think they were $8. Have had them in for four months, no problems. The wires are short, I used needlenose vice grips to keep them from falling back in while I reconnected them. Cant' they make a switch with just one or two wires...always has to be difficult.
|
Pelican sells 2 types:
The genuine Porsche for $35 http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/smart/more_info.cgi?pn=911-613-621-03-M100&catalog_description=Window%20Switch%2C%20%39% 31%31%20%28%31%39%37%34%2D%38%39%29%20 And the German brand for $20 http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/smart/more_info.cgi?pn=911-613-621-03-M127&catalog_description=Window%20Switch%2C%20%39% 31%31%20%28%31%39%37%34%2D%38%39%29%20 Anyone know if there is a difference in quality? I need to replace one but I've just been putting it off until I need a few more things. |
Timely thread. I just received my replacement switches from Pelican yesterday. I went big and sprung the extra bucks for genuine Porsche. With your words of wisdom, I'm hoping that the project will differ from most of my projects, which always seem to include three trips to Lowes.
|
Quote:
|
Quote:
|
Dont buy the non pcar switch. I just bought one a few months ago and found that the color of the switch was not exactly like the others. The black was a bit off, looking like dark gray. I didnt notice it until it was installed next to the others.
|
glad to hear that. one of the switches in my drivers door is going bad. it still works but the switch itself is loose as can be and pops out of the housing randomly. i just ordered the porsche version and a few other small items from pelican.
|
|
If you are working on your car and say "oh crap! I need to run to Lowes to finish this" you are doing something wrong, imho.
|
Hey, I bought a few things at Home Depot. Granted it was right around the corner and the easiest place to try. Great for 5 gallon buckets to drain oil into, pre-cut lengths of pipe to use as breaker bars and I bought some Husky metric sockets in a pinch. :D
|
Hey guys, I test it 3 days continuously to see what is going on and I found that when it hot, it won't work, but it works fine when it's cool down.
The passenger side is stuck, so it completely dead. The driver switch for the passenger window is working when it's cool, as above. Morning works fine. Middle of noon, it's dead. Night, it works fine. I just tried it a second ago and it works fine. Driver window is fine. Anyone can think of which component is the problem maker? Some relay can't take the heat? It get over 100 degree inside my car at noon. |
After it off, I found that it is an OE porsche switch. It was hard to open it up to see the internal but at the end, I did. The cause was heat. Heat melted one of the plastic pin and made it shorter, also some internal chambers were melted too, those jam the copper blade; which won't allow the switch to flick. Instead of waiting on part order, I cleaned up all melted parts and made a pin by a big nail.
The question is why it melted, is there any other component\s which is going bad? Well, look like it is in working order. Summer heat? Can't be. My buddy explanation was corosion. Corosion can generate heat. Ok, I cleaned it up well using a lot of WD40, and re-crimpped all crimps well/tight. Let's see. |
All times are GMT -8. The time now is 05:00 PM. |
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2025, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2025 Pelican Parts, LLC - Posts may be archived for display on the Pelican Parts Website