Its not that diffucult I took the phenolic spacers for the 3.2 intake put them on my 2.7 and used a marker to highlight the material that needed to be removed and then plugged the hole and used my dremel to remove and polish the port took about 2 hours for all 6 heads and it works real well the only issue is there is not much gasket surface on the head and you need to rtv it to give it some extra sealing area. I have no leaks and a good pattern the taller the spacer the less you have to do to the head itself you can shape the spacer to match the head to a certain extent. I was under the impression there were some large port 3.0 heads that match up to the intake. As for the boss your right and in Tony's instructions it show how to remove the boss from thr 3.0 runner and install a boss that accepts the bosch style injector if you use a 3.2 intake then you don't need the boss as the intake already will accept the injector that was additional savings for me when I did the install.

If your goal is plug & play (sort of), wouldn't it be easier to go with the tbitz kit and the Computronix Dis6?

Joe

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I went with tBitz. As for ignition control, I opted for an Electromotive HPV 3b. That's an old version of the current XDI ignition Electromotive sells. It is fully programable, so it should work out nicely. My car is at the painter right now, but it will be done by the end of this week. So this weekend I will be starting the installation.

Here are some pictures of the engine as of now. I am going for a clean install, so I remove everything that isn't necessary, and try to route the wiring as discretely as possible. :)

http://i396.photobucket.com/albums/p...n/IMG_1046.jpg

http://i396.photobucket.com/albums/p...n/IMG_1040.jpg

I would highly recommend the tBitz kit. It is great value for the money.

I will post updates as the installation begins, and a video when it is all up and running. SmileWavy

Congrats you wont be disappointed. Dont forget to join the bitzracing yahoo group so you have a place to ask questions Tony will be a great help since you opted to go with the kit unmolested and it will come to you ready to run with minor tuning as mine did before I upgraded the firmware and added the turbo and even then a guy on the yahoo group provided me with a msq that set me up good its a great group. Oh and nice looking motor.

Thanks! :) I have spent a lot of time on the details.

So, the msq that comes installed, is it good enough for me to use this summer without much alteration do you think,? I am very eager to get the car on the road now, tired of working on it. I am already a member of the yahoo-group, seems like there are many knowledgeable people there!

might need some minor tuning

Very nicely done!

Great Looking engine!

On the Fuel System options you outlined... I looked at both of those as well... There are a couple threads that have alot of good info in them when I was reviewing my options.

The problem with both of these options is that you are bolting a few new parts (digital WUR, Bitz kit) to 30 year old systems... many of the parts you are re-using are NLA. Example, Try to find an AAR (Aux Air Reg) if yours stops working... Its NLA everywhere.. including our host... It controls idle on the Bitz kit. They were $650 when there were readily available. Your 2k Bitz kit might really be 3k if that stops working.
MS is now on several upgraded versions post MS2 release (V3.57) and Bitz is still using MS1? The MS2 ECU is only $55 more at places like DIYAutoTune. MS3 has been released. There are numerous advantages to using MS2 V 3.57 if you are looking for spark control including use of plug and play jumpers rather than having to solder on the board. MS1 would be a deal breaker for me if I were looking for spark control...
Bitz was a GREAT idea 4 years ago... but technology has moved forward, progress has been made, other options such as ITB's have come way down in price, and with Bitz you are still getting the components that were released 4 years ago.

I think the digital WUR is even worse. You are reusing everything but the WUR and hoping that none of the sensors, regulators, etc stops working... many which are NLA.

If it were me, Id save my money... try to keep the CIS as tuned as you can with used parts (many for sale on the board)... and install EFI done right (PMO ITB's, MS2) or any of many variations available... in the end, you will pay now or pay later.

By the time you buy the injectors, regulators you are in 2k with a bitz kit... AAR goes... what are you gonna do? buy a used one? one of your runners gets cracked? airbox gets cracked? you get the point...

for about 4k you could do a more comprehensive system where you could dump the entire CIS system... and your good for years with no out of date/used parts on your engine. Mine was 5k but that included extras like Distributor Rebuild/Recurve, relay board, stainless steel fuel line, etc... which easily added 1k to the price...


Not sure what your budget is. Sorry if Im making assumptions... but with all the time and effort on that engine.. I wouldnt go to a half measure on Fuel...

Just my .02.

Just a note your right about the porsche part being expensive or NLA but there is a VW part that is still being made for the budding beetle restoration bunch that is basically the same and cheaper I think in my research there are other alternatives out there as well. I think the pressure is on Tony to upgrade but I am thinking he wants to stay with the tried and true that works great with the normally aspirated older 911's he has discussed turbo options and ignition control but it has not come to pass. My MS1 works great after the mods but frankly will evenually have to upgrade to MS3 as my project grows. By the way what does MS3 use for idle control?

I dont know anything about MS3. The MS2 3.57 is well documented. There are a pretty long list of upgrades over MS 2 2.2 and MS 1. Many are spark/ignition related.

I understand Tony's position, and Im not saying he has to upgrade to have a working product. But with a complete ITB project costing 4k, and his kit 2k, and with products like Tuner Studio that allow you to tune with nothing more than a good AFR table and Innovate Wideband, many will start going the ITB route. Many of the issues and arguments against ITB's hae been largely resolved. I think the big issue for ITB's is cold start in not southern climates... but id much rather use a hand throttle than rely on a NLA AAR for that.

For the record you dont need to go to crankfire for EDIS, you can use the dizzy.

Thats what I did. I had Barry rebuild and recurve my dizzy with mechanical advance only. I use MSD for spark control.

fwiw, this did as much if not more for throttle reponse than the ITB/EFI did.

Now the engine is mostly done. I just need some new cush-washers for the oil lines, new spark plugs and wires, new oil on the transmission, and then it is all ready to go into the car. :)

http://i396.photobucket.com/albums/p...n/IMG_1169.jpg

http://i396.photobucket.com/albums/p...n/IMG_1170.jpg

http://i396.photobucket.com/albums/p...n/IMG_1171.jpg

As for Bitz vs other options: I got the injectors and FPR for cheap, and the same with the Electromotive ignition. So the total wasn't bad at all. I reckon it will be good once installed.

pjo046, sent you PM...

Joseph

If possible I would like to see some pics of this, I'm very interested in going this route sue to some emissions issues I'm having.

Here are some pics not my car but these are what I used to do mine you just need to get the factory phenolic spacers sold by our host and I put in longer studs so I didn't have to do what Doug did and grind on the intake flange then I carefully used my dremel to blend in the edges that I highlighted with magic marker. A note is the use of the phenolic spacers means the amount of material you need to take off the heads is not as great and leaves you with more gasket surface. Doug didn't use the spacers when he did his work. Another note is I used the stock 2.7 gaskets on the head side and the 3.2 gaskets on the intake side of the spacer.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1274124527.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1274124573.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1274124628.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1274124681.jpg

Bitz EFI and gauge pics
 

Just interrupting the thread...sorry. I just added these last night:

The 2 lower gauges are Voltmeter and Innovate wideband AFR gauge. The stereo is replaced by the Megaview display I soldered together.

It looks much cleaner and neat in person. The camera flash makes everything look dirty. :( ...and the Megaview display disappear.

The switch in between the two lower gauges is hooked to my AAR. I can disable it so I can buy time before the valve closes and I lose idle RPM too soon.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1275209609.jpg

that looks good Kyle, how do you like the inovate set up? I finally abandond all my homemade stepper motor wur's, whiched worked great, but the medical flow regulator i was using would leak evenuatlly. Finally settled on this set up, which still allows for instant afr adjutments and control press settings. The top gauge is afr, the bottom one is control press.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1275226914.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1275226953.jpg