Super tight brake rotor bolts!

[EMJ]

So I'm replacing my front brake rotors - car's up, wheel is off. Problem is the 2 super tight 19mm bolts holding the caliper in place. Put copious amounts of wd40 on each bolt, still won't budge. Double checked that I was going left to loosen the bolt after several minutes, still no luck. Put a mallet to the wrench, muscled it - won't budge still.

Any ideas? Don't have an impact gun but I'll consider getting one as I'm doing more DIY stuff these days and could use it. Recommendations for a good impact gun are appreciated.

Thanks!

[steve911T]

I had the same problem on the rear calipers of an 89 Carrera, had to take a portion of pipe, cut it to the longest length I could get to fit in the limited space and placed it over the handle of the socket ratchet and then put my weight behind it. Good luck, it will come off with enough pressure.

[aj88cab]

Don't be offended, but be sure you are turning them the correct direction. It is easy to get twisted around and be tighting them (ask me how I know). Other than that try using a long breaker bar to loosen them as Steve mentioned.

[GaryR]

Agree with the other guys, will add that WD40 is relatively useless as a penetrating oil, get some Aero-Kroil or at least use PB-Blaster for that...

[Targa Me]

Try smacking the head of the bolts with a hammer, sometimes this gars them loose. If you have a helper there with you, have some one smack the bolt as you try to turn it. Good luck.

[EMJ]

Originally Posted by aj88cab

Don't be offended, but be sure you are turning them the correct direction. It is easy to get twisted around and be tighting them (ask me how I know). Other than that try using a long breaker bar to loosen them as Steve mentioned.

Thanks for the suggestions, guys... I think aj88cab has a good point about ensuring I'm turning the wrench in the right direction. Facing the car, because the bolt is in the inside, I would be turning the wrench to my right to loosen, correct? I've actually tried both ways, but I want to make sure. Once I'm sure of the correct direction, I'll try some muscle with a pipe I have handy.

Thanks!

[jsmithcds]

Can off PB blaster +1
Piece of pipe on the end of a 1/2 socket for the muscle
Craftsman 1/2 inch impact wrench with a 30 gallon compressor(will run most air tools)


looking at the head off the bolt:


Lefty loosey ====> righty tighty

[EMJ]

Bolts off! The pipe over the wrench in the right direction did the trick! Came off with minimal effort - thanks guys!

Been a while since I did a brake job - was suprised when I loosened the caliper by loosening the 4 bolts to get it off of the rotor when all of a sudden brake fluid started leaking all over the place when I separated the pads. Leaked for over 5 minutes until it was all out. I remember that being a valve that's loosened in my other cars. Didn't see any cut brake lines.

How do I bleed the brakes when I'm all done with putting everything back together when there's no bleed valve? Sorry for the basic questions, guys. Never have done brakes on my 911 before. Thanks.

[911pcars]

Originally Posted by EMJ

Bolts off! The pipe over the wrench in the right direction did the trick! Came off with minimal effort - thanks guys!

Been a while since I did a brake job - was suprised when I loosened the caliper by loosening the 4 bolts to get it off of the rotor when all of a sudden brake fluid started leaking all over the place when I separated the pads. Leaked for over 5 minutes until it was all out. I remember that being a valve that's loosened in my other cars. Didn't see any cut brake lines.

How do I bleed the brakes when I'm all done with putting everything back together when there's no bleed valve? Sorry for the basic questions, guys. Never have done brakes on my 911 before. Thanks.

4 bolts? Brake fluid drainage? There are usually only two caliper mounting bolts. Perhaps you somehow separated the caliper halves?

You will have some work to do before bleeding the brakes. Get back with us when you're ready.

Sherwood

[pete3799]

Best buy a Bentley repair manual or Wayne's book as i think you've messed up. What 4 bolts are you talking about? You didn't take the calipers apart did you?
You should have a bleeder on the inside top of each caliper.

[tonythetarga]

EMJ, follow this link to the tech articles right here on PP. Always helps to do some research before grabbing the wrenches and then figuring out what went wrong afterwards.

Pelican Parts - 911 Technical Articles

[EMJ]

Originally Posted by pete3799

Best buy a Bentley repair manual or Wayne's book as i think you've messed up. What 4 bolts are you talking about? You didn't take the calipers apart did you?
You should have a bleeder on the inside top of each caliper.

Yup, working off of Wayne's 101 Projects. I took the 2 bolts off but the calipers wouldn't come off so I loosened the 4 caliper bolts and spread them so that I could clear the rotor. The caliper then cleared the rotor but then came all of the brake fluid.

[EMJ]

Originally Posted by tonythetarga

EMJ, follow this link to the tech articles right here on PP. Always helps to do some research before grabbing the wrenches and then figuring out what went wrong afterwards.

Pelican Parts - 911 Technical Articles

Thanks, Tony. Actually had the plan all mapped out - read the Rotor replacement section of Wayne's book but didn't anticipate the caliper not clearing the rotor once the 2 bolts were removed. Figured loosening the caliper made sense, but didn't anticipate the brake fuid leaking.

Here's a question: What's the best way to remove the caliper from the rotor when it won't clear it? Didn't see this covered in Wayne's book. Thanks!

[911pcars]

Originally Posted by EMJ

Yup, working off of Wayne's 101 Projects. I took the 2 bolts off but the calipers wouldn't come off so I loosened the 4 caliper bolts and spread them so that I could clear the rotor. The caliper then cleared the rotor but then came all of the brake fluid.

What's missing so far is some text describing removal of the rigid brake fluid line to the caliper. In addition, the brake pads are accessed by removing the brake retaining pins. You may have to push the caliper pistons in slightly to provide enough clearance to slide them out, but that's all normal SOP.

You've created a short cut by splitting the calipers - not recommended. And if you haven't removed the rigid brake supply line yet, the inner caliper half is probably still in place.

At this point, you may need more than the 101 Projects book. Learn the search function and exploded illustrations here first (they're free).

Keep in touch.

Sherwood

[tonythetarga]

Originally Posted by EMJ

Here's a question: What's the best way to remove the caliper from the rotor when it won't clear it? Didn't see this covered in Wayne's book. Thanks!

You want to use a pair of channel lock pliers (large adjustable type) grab the brake pads one at a time and squeeze them back so the piston moves inside the caliper. Once that is done, you could also removed the pads completely. Then you undo the two bolts that hold the caliper to the strut. If you are rebuilding and in need of complete removal, you need to disconnect the hard pipe feed line before removing the bolts that hold the caliper to the strut. With all that removed, the caliper can be lifted right off the rotor.
BTW, if you have gotten brake fluid all over your pads, do not reuse them.

[safe]

Originally Posted by EMJ

Yup, working off of Wayne's 101 Projects. I took the 2 bolts off but the calipers wouldn't come off so I loosened the 4 caliper bolts and spread them so that I could clear the rotor. The caliper then cleared the rotor but then came all of the brake fluid.

You should have spread the the pads to get it of the disk.

Now you can have a problem getting the caliper leak free.