Feeling Cranky

[Mark McClure]

Hi,

In my never ENDING....! quest for less oil on the garage floor I have decided to drop the engine for the third rear seal. In preparation for this I have got

a. A new Seal
b. A speedi Sleave

BUT.... the only dimension I do not have is the depth of the crank on a 3.0 SC 78 where the seal rides.

Can someone assist with the measurment for the depth of the crank at the rear where the seal sits.

Thanks

Mark.......

[sc_rufctr]

Usually the seal is installed flush with the case...

However the seal can actually wear a grove in the crank so it's common practice to
install it a bit proud of the case (2mm) so that the seal contacts an unworn area.

It wouldn't hurt to use some CurilT on the metal part of the seal were it meets the
case. This helps stop any leaks from the case half joint area or around the seal.

Pelican Parts - Automotive Parts and Accessories - Porsche & BMW

[crustychief]

I agree with what Pete said, and make sure you lube the lip before it goes on, otherwise it could fail on startup ( like going down a slide wearing shorts). Were the last seals installed correctly? I have installed a seal or two backwards over the years. I hope you get your leak fixed!

[Mark McClure]

Thanks for the tips guys. I do really need the measurment of the depth of the surface the seal runs on.....so that I can get the right speedi sleeve ready.

Thanks

Mark.......

[Superman]

Sniff the oil coming out. More often than not, when oil dribbles out of the bellhousing, it's coming past the transmission input seal, crawling up the shaft and getting onto the clutch disk. Rear main seals rarely leak on these cars and when they do, it's not easy for the oil to get onto the clutch disk. A contaminated clutch disk is almost certainly a transmission input seal problem.