Grounding advice needed (pics)

[garment]

Hi Pelicans - I am installing the J West headlight relay in my '83SC. The last step in the instructions calls for the grounding wire on the relay assembly to be attached to the grounding post by the negative battery terminal. This pic shows the reason for my question:



It's a serious rat's next of cables, wires, and tubes in there!

However, I saw this (hopefully) convenient hole just above the positive battery terminal:



If I tap this hole and attach the relay assembly ground, will this work for me? Or is there another place for grounding you'd recommend?

Thanks, Pelicans!

[kodioneill]

I would take the time to remove the ground wires clean them up and install it along with the others it'll look more professional.

[lsf911]

I agree with kodioneill, but it should work fine if you connect it to that spot you mention. After all, the ground locations on the car are just chassis connections as well.

[Bob Kontak]

Originally Posted by garment

If I tap this hole and attach the relay assembly ground, will this work for me? Or is there another place for grounding you'd recommend?

This looks ok if you are not worried about concours scoring. And that's ok.

I would not just screw a bolt in there or use a self tapper bolt. Given the importance of this ground, go over to Lowes or Home Depot and pick up some nice stainless hardware and bring the bolt shaft through from the inner fender. Lock it in place with a nut and leave enough "stud" to affix the ground wire to it with a nut.

Given it's not an official ground point, end the debate with these serrated washers biting into the inner fender wall when you mount the primary hardware.

[wwest]

Is that hole for the battery "drain" tube?

[garment]

So, I am all connected up to the "extra hole" - I am non-concors, and happy to be so! I will have to get a serrated washer on my next trip to HD. Thanks for the replies!

One final question - I turned on the headlights and both hi and low seem to work OK. When I did the "paddle flash" to hi beams, I heard a ticking noise from relay assembly. I think this is OK, but is this the case?

[Bob Kontak]

Originally Posted by garment

So, I am all connected up to the "extra hole" - I am non-concors, and happy to be so! I will have to get a serrated washer on my next trip to HD. Thanks for the replies!

One final question - I turned on the headlights and both hi and low seem to work OK. When I did the "paddle flash" to hi beams, I heard a ticking noise from relay assembly. I think this is OK, but is this the case?

It's ok. As I understand it, the relay is energized by the stalk. When the little relay electromagnet is energized, you hear the click. Energizing it takes very little juice so that is all that runs through the stalk. This is good.

Relay energized, the heavier load juice is routed by the relay to you lights without beating (higher amp load) on your stalk connections.

[T77911S]

Originally Posted by kodioneill

I would take the time to remove the ground wires clean them up and install it along with the others it'll look more professional.

i agree. clean up the factory ground and use it.

[911pcars]

While the headlight relay circuit sounds like it works as designed, may I suggest rerouting the wires that have added to the positive battery post over to the fuse box?

It's not a concours thing. It's just better practice, if possible, not to hang accessory circuits directly off the battery. That's what the fuse box is for. Look for unused fuse positions (sunroof, power windows, rear wiper, etc.), then the appropriate fuse. It will look cleaner with a more "professional" appearance, and with an archived sketch of the circuit, makes it easier for the next person (or tech) to diagnose. YMMV.

Not worst-case, but typical of too many DIY projects:


The Boy Scout mantra, "Leave no trace behind" applies, especially with electrical mods.

Sherwood