I know, I know. Don't shoot me, I'm only the messenger. Porsche described some of these codes as "country codes" somewhere in their literature. It doesn't literally mean country but it denotes a certain feature, or group of features, of the car. CO2 meant the car was intended for an area that required catalytic converters, thus the car was so equipped (along with the other changes needed to run the cat, the DME, wiring harness etc.) CO3 meant it was for the California market, equipped with the various things that California required that nobody else in the world did. Sometimes the M-xxx options indicated what market the car was built for. For example, there is an M- option code for vehicles built for the USA.

Lot's of these codes were reused over the life of Porsche's production so you have to know both the era and the code to figure out what it means. That's the source of a lot of errors on the COA, in my opinion.

As for the options, it depended on the year and model. A 4 way power seat may have been standard on a 911 and an 8 way power seat might have been an option, in a given year. That same 8-way power seat may have been standard on a 930 that same year. If you ordered sport seats in a 930, they came with 4 way power adjustment, even thought 8 way was standard, as that's the only way they built that version of the sport seat. There were even differences in what was standard on the 911 seats from left to right, in a given year.

JR

FWIW, my '84 option sticker lists the M491 as well as the codes for the LSD, sport seats, radio, etc.

I can't imagine anyone going to the trouble of installing the Turbo trailing arms and CV joints on a Carrera. The arms are shorter than the standard cars and require a different mount. The brakes, maybe. But, on Turbos and T/Ls the rear calipers are toward the rear of the car. Most people who switch to Turbo brakes mount them to the front side of the rear wheel because the Carrera hubs and/or arms are different.

IIRC, the anti-dive spacer is just a flat metal washer between the front a-arm mount and the chassis. Easy enough to stick on or leave off inadvertently. I'll try to look at mine tonight for a better description if that will help.

My rear fenders don't look welded on, but maybe I don't understand what to look for.

Remember that Porsche was still a small company in the 1980s. They would not have been above slapping in a different S/N transmission if the correct one didn't happen to be available. Or failing to update the list of what transmissions went where.

Remember also that these cars are 20+ years old. Many owners modify, update or just repair their cars and the correct pieces can easily be lost or mislaid.

Not to mention that it just isn't worth it to try to make an FTL clone to fool a buyer. The price premium for a used FTL over a standard Carrera certainly wouldn't cover the cost the parts alone to make a complete conversion.

Your lack of complete documentation would cost you some points in a concours. Aside from that, who cares. It's a Factory Turbo Look. Drive and enjoy.

My 1984 FTL has sport seats listed on the option code and I have them (in the correct Cadbury Brown as on the interior color code). But, they are manual, not power. Go figure.

Porsche sometimes made running changes and, I strongly suspect, used up left over inventory from one year to the next. I have seen instances on this board and the 911S board where cars at the end or beginning of a model year run had some parts that were from the proceeding or coming year. Hey, it just adds to the charm.:)

Bob, you have manual seats because electrics were not available until 1985.

You were just a bit early...we'll call it proactive, that sounds better.

This is because Porsche did not offer an electric sport seat in 1984 for the 911. The seat design changed completely in 1985 and it is this later seat that was offered with power adjustment. The '84 seat and the '85 seat have essentially nothing in common. This is what sometimes makes things confusing. There was a constant change/refinement with these cars.

So, as I said previously, you have to consider what was available for a given year. Also, what was optional in one year, or for one model, might be a standard feature in another.

JR

OK - So I can keep my signature as is. I just got off the phone with PNA and they confirmed my car came with the following options:

018 - Steering wheel - raised hub
341 - Central locking system
438 - Full power seats - right
454 - Cruise control
491 - Turbo look
650 - Power sunroof
C03 - Cal emissions

Thanks again for everyone being more convinced than I was, that I had the real deal. To shed some light on my (long since vanished) doubt, I have tire pressure stickers for 15 inch rims. I also have 7's & 9's, while I read somewhere the FTL didn't have 9's in the back until '86. There are a few other oddities, that I'm still trying to figure out. At least I can close this chapter and start on another.

Thanks for the info. You really do learn something everyday.

I am happy with the manual seats - lighter weight, don't ya know. Mine is also sans sunroof - the ultimate light-weight FTL.;)

Myamoto - glad you're convinced now. By the way, you can fit 9 1/2" wide wheels in front and 11 1/2", maybe 12" in the rear with careful offsets. I have 9" and 11 1/2" x 17 with no fender rolling.

BTW, there's a FTL only web page at: Porsche911FactoryTurbo-LookCars : 911 Carrera with Option M491

Also an FTL registry - try a search here.

Bob - thanks for the links. I tried contacting the head of the FTL registery and never heard back. Similar to other's comments, I did not have a positive experience and zero welcome over on the Yahoo group.

I'd love to run some wider tires in the rear and move the 9's up front. I wonder if anyone has run 17s or 18s in the rear (Jeff Alton's) w/ factory 16's in the front. I wouldn't mind a set of Fiskes either. What wheels are you running?

You should be alright with 16" front and 17" rear as long as the overall tire diameter difference is not too great. That will be harder with 18" rears.

I have seen a couple of the Alton wheels and they are real beauties. There have been some delivery issues early on and the cost is a little steep - search "Alton" for more info.

My wheels are from Complete Custom Wheels.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1255539271.jpg

Check out: Complete Custom Wheel

Their wheels are almost as light as Fuchs, but not quite as pretty. Quite a few auto-crossers and track guys run them. The cost was $2,250.00 for the set of four complete with open steel wheel lugs. It took about 2 weeks to get them as each wheel is made to order.

I've had them almost two years and the only issue has been a small nick I put in one rim. The aluminum on the rim seems pretty soft, but, hey, I'm the one who accidentally hit the rim with a tool.:(

Bob - thanks for the post and the link. Alton (Zuffenhouse) wheels would be my top choice. I just haven't seen anyone with 16's on the front and 17's or 18's on the rear. I'd prefer 17's, but am not up on what's available tire wise for 17's vs 18's. I know my selection seems to be shrinking for 16's (at least for a tire that'd work on an 11" wheel).

Sorry to take off topic, but will they do this over the phone, for free? Or do you mean ordering a COA?

Christien, I called the number to ask for my build date. The associate looked up the info and told it to me for free over the phone. He had the info up on his screen and I could have asked him for any of the options....I kick myself for not asking him more but I'll do that another day. ;)

Christien - I wasn't the owner of record w/ PNA, so I had to fax a title or registration to prove ownership. It took them a few days to get back to me, but I was able to get the info I listed above. They encouraged a COA, but wouldn't give me info on where the car was sold. I didn't think about build date, but 7/85 is good enough for me.

Cool, thanks guys - I'll try it tomorrow. Fingers crossed they have 37 year old data digitized...

I have always been given the info over the phone. Tell them that you are interested in purchasing the vehicle and that you want to ensure the seller is providing you the correct data.

I told them I already owned the vehicle and they wouldn't give me the info w/o proof of ownership. I was hoping to find out where the car was originally sold, but they wouldn't give me that info, unless I was the original owner. Maybe it depends on who you talk to.

The girl I spoke with kept pushing for a COA. Something I may do eventually, just to round out the documentation, but I've got better things to spend $100+ on.

Just called them, they said I have to fax in the title, showing it in my name, but it is indeed a free service, you only have to pay for the COA if you want it in writing.

edit: fax # is 678-225-6606, make sure your name, address and phone # are included. 3-5 business days for an older car like mine. Title must be in your name (due to confidentiality, damn lawyers :) )

Christien - that was my experience. However, they let me fax in my registration, which was easier, since it's in my glovebox.

I think we're talking about the same thing - the green (in Ont. at least) ownership slip you keep in the glovebox. Fax that, with a cover page with phone # (and address if reg doesn't show it).

Yup - that's the same I faxed in. Let us know what you find out.