Starting Hot problem

[Femalew911T]

I'm having a teribble time getting my 911T (Mech. Inj.) to start up again after taking it for a drive. After it's cooled down a bit it does eventually start up, after several try's. I've recently replaced the fuel pump with a new one, and also changed the injector's. I'm pretty much a novice when it comes to car's....any suggestions would be much apprectiated.

[Rot 911]

According to owner's manual and what has worked for me: When car is completely cold or completly warmed up either don't use any gas or just barely press down on gas while starting. When engine temperature is anywhere in between press the gas pedal completely to the floor and hold it there when starting.

Kurt V
72 911E

[Titleist 911]

I had a similar problem. The green wire to the side of the distributor was the culprit. John Walker posted thte part number, 930 602 907 01. It cost me $27 with PCA discount. I have had NO problems since.

[Early_S_Man]

There is NO green 'cable' on a '72-'73 911T with MFI and a distributor using points!

Stephanie,

You should check the common ground cable at the coil, distributor, and CDI-unit on the left fender/firewall for corrosion or loose connection. Clean with stainless steel toothbrush, then apply anti-sieze compound or silicone grease to keep out moisture and corrosion. Likewise with the two coil connections with the two 8 mm nuts, and the 3-pin connector at the CDI-unit.

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Warren Hall
1973 911S Targa

[lsolon]

is it cranking at all? On my 72, I would park it when it was hot, come out and the car would not turn over until it had cooled down. Not even a click.What a bummer this was when you are with someone and have to get some where. If this is the problem, the way i fixed it is with a relay kit that you can buy and hook up between your battery and starter at the starter. No probs. now

[Allan Broadribb]

Warren, what kind of teeth do you have that you need a stainless steel toothbrush?

[Early_S_Man]

If it is cranking slower than normal when hot, that suggests a corrosion problem either at the battery terminals or ground strap, or the body-to-transaxle ground strap ... or possibly the 'hot' battery lead at the starter!

If it still cranks slowly after all of the above have been checked, then the starter can be disassembled, cleaned and lubricated with a high-quality moly grease like Swepco 101.

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Warren Hall
1973 911S Targa

[Superman]

I'll remind folks here that the BIG, (probably red) cable going to the starter is hot all the time. And it is unfused. So, any time you are working around the starter, please follow that step in all procedures which we often disregard ("Disconnect Battery Ground Strap.")

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'83 SC

[CEO]

Well, my car did this too. And after many questions and lots of research I found out that it was the Fuel Acumulator and or the fuel pump check valve. I replaced both of them at the same time, $120 total. I know for a fact that this is what is wrong with your car. If you have any questions e-mail me. best of luck to you.
Kenneth

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Kenneth
Silver 81' Targa

[Early_S_Man]

Sorry, Kenneth, but what you know and what you THINK YOU KNOW ... are separated by a large chasm! MFI is not CIS, and MFI systems don't have fuel accumulators!

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Warren Hall
1973 911S Targa

[critter]

ouch

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Grant 75 911s targa

[Fishcop]

Foot to the floor (gently and don't pump) and crank that baby over.

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John Forcier
69 911T

[Fishcop]

And no matter what everyone else says, Warren is right!

[CEO]

My bad I mis read the post. Sorry guys I mistook CIS and MFI to mean the same thing. After further review I agree with Warren, you are correct. And that is my final answer. Oppps

[jlex]

Femalew911T:
If you post your picture, maybe we can get a better understanding of the problem...:-)
regards,
jlex.

[MMBRAZIL]

On my 74 cis the problem was mixture too lean, if this helps....

[Roland Kunz]

Hello

Right now the question is to much fuel or not enough fuel ?

First the basics have to be controlled. Ignition and MFI timing plus eventually the valve lash.

You can try if it will start if you pump while starting ( to lean mixture or vapor ) or use the full floored methode ( to rich mixture ). You can also test this way. Start engine for two to four secound while you pump the gaspedal. Then wait 1-2 minutes and restart without throttle.

This is the factory recomended hot start procedure: Turn on ignition and wait 5-10 secounds to flush vapor out off the filter and fuellines. Start with full pressed pedal and let it loose when the engine is runing on all 6 cylinders and/or spools up itself.

Some easy checks:

1.) Look if the hoses from the heatexchanger runing into the engine bay up to the MFI pump coldstartenrichment circuit are in order. Inside the engine bay there are two hoses in one going upwards.

2.) When engine hot then remove the coldstartvalve hose at the left Intakerunner and place it in a small can or bottle. Then follow the wireset from the CDI box on the left side electric board. After 3-4" a red cable will come out and end in an other red cable coming out under the circuit board. Disconnect, as this is the power suppley for the ignition, then start the car. If you have fuel in the can while starting hot then remove the connector ( grey/white ) from the seleonid a top the fuelfilterhousing.
You then might have coldstartproblems. So this is only a fast fix.

3.) Check your oillevel. Is it rising and does the oil smeels fuely ?

How good are your wrenching abilitys ?

Sparkplug ? Ignition timing ? MFI pump seting ? Pull rod adjusting ? Have you read the MFI section on Pelican tech ?

Maybe we have to go into some checking/adjusting on the pump but I never made this via Internet.

Grüsse