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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gunter View Post
Nice touch to invoke Pythagoras and Euclidean geometry.

I don't like the standard jacking plates for that very reason plus the smooth plate itself is open to the possibility of slipping from the jack under load.
Yes, when I use my purchased tool, I make sure the edge rests within the lip of the jack. And, of course, I make sure the jack roll freely, and the surface is smooth and clean.

When I fabbed my race car, I dropped a tube at the center of gravity from the door bars to the floor of the car and welded a plate to it. I made a block that fits in the cup section of the jack, and rounded the top surface. I have pin that projects up though the block, and it slides through a hole in the cars floor and the jacking plate, where I grab it with a hitch pin. Of course the holes are elongated to allow for the angle change that occurs while jacking.

Works like a charm AND meets the rules which don't allow "attached" jacking points. (Mine merely 'rests' on the inside surface of floorboard, hence the pin to register and maintain it's position.)

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'73 yellow 911E , & 2003 BMW M3 Cab. Ex: 84 Mazda RX-7 SCCA racer. did ok with it, set some records, won some races, but it wore out, LOL[/B]
Old 11-28-2009, 11:53 AM
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I made this for my jack out of 4 x 4 x 1/4 steel tubing. I didn't have a piece of 3/4" pipe that would fit in the hole so I used an old socket and welded it on. Much much more stable than a loose 4 x 4 wood block between the jack and the car.





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Old 11-28-2009, 12:22 PM
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Old 11-28-2009, 01:03 PM
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All jack plates must not be the same because on mine the "plate" sits in the jack and the jack can't slide out from under it.

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Old 11-28-2009, 01:06 PM
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Jack Plate

Or turn the jack plate at 90 deg. (from that plate down position in paul's photo) for a positive nesting into the jack cup.

Factory photos show the cars being lifted from the bottom of the engine to about a meter, or so, in height for servicing. I followed suit and have jacked on the lug at the front of the engine for 25 years. On all cars with the return oil line that runs under the engine/transmission, use a wood block so the edge of the jack cup doesn't rest on/crush that oil line.

Good jack: Norco Professional #71230 A , 2.25 ton, has a cup ht of 3.75" rise to 19.75", front wheel 3.5" deck is about 28" long. 100lbs or so. around $250.
Old 11-28-2009, 02:57 PM
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Good stuff.

As long as the plate rests in the cup I see no problem.

I remember jacks with smaller cups under the plate just riding on the lip of the cup; not good.

Lifting by the engine has been debated a few times here with 50/50 results. I remember the picture of Ferdinand and Butzi with the rear-lift, but, I don't think it is recommended in the driver's manual or the Porsche Service Manuals. If it is, I'd love to see it.

It's up to the individual; Some do, some don't.

I avoid it because I don't want to stress the engine case and the body cross piece taking up the total weight of the rear.
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Old 11-29-2009, 08:44 AM
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does anyone have photos of the jack stand locations actually under the car? Are you using the U-shaped saddles right on these points? I've used the torsion bar covers in the rear and the front mount of the a-arms in front (has two bolts) but will be doing suspension work soon and don't know where to put the stands. I'll need all 4 wheels/areas free at the same time. I have using that diagram...just don't trust myself enough. Thanks!
Old 12-22-2009, 07:55 PM
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Mark how much did the Snap-On jack cost...I have been looking for a made in USA jack.
Old 09-24-2013, 01:40 PM
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Costco low profile 3 ton jack for $100 and Harbor Fright jack stands for $15.00. We are talking a super jack here. I know it is heavy but after it is out of the box, you never have to lift it again!
Old 09-24-2013, 05:15 PM
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don't assume that Snap-On jacks are made in USA
Old 09-24-2013, 05:28 PM
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I've seen the 99$ Costco jack for $79 recently. (I own one at $99 and it is great.) Btw great thread with some great Grady content.
Old 09-24-2013, 07:13 PM
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With the average weight of a 911 being about 2700 lbs, why buy jacks that are rated for 4-6,000 lbs? Same with the floor jack ratings. Why go to the expense of buying a 3 ton jack, when the whole car doesn't even weigh that much and one is only lifting at the most, half of the car at a time?
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Old 09-24-2013, 09:23 PM
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Because the red 3 ton jack from Costco is really cool! And it only costs $99.00! And it can pick up a corner of my house if need be!
Old 09-24-2013, 09:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DG624 View Post
Mark how much did the Snap-On jack cost...I have been looking for a made in USA jack.
Two weeks ago I purchased a floor jack. I wanted steel and American made, so realistically my two choices came down to Hein Werner and Milwaukee. I found the 2-ton Hein Werner jack locally for about $290 (list is something like $529, IIRC, and most online sites sell if for about $380 though shipping is often included in that price). I paid tax, but saved on shipping. The alternative are the Danish jacks sold here on Pelican for $399.

Snap-On, Craftsman, Costco, Harbor Freight, anything you'll find at your FLAPS: all made in China. I don't know if there are any aluminum jacks made in America. Snap-On ones certainly aren't.



edit: My previous steel jack was Chinese-made. I purchased it at a FLAPS. Recently the little socket/receptacle in the base of the handle stripped, so the jack won't release. I can't find any parts for repair/replacement. Heck, I can't even confirm if the manufacturer is still in business. So until I get a local machine shop to drill out the stripped female end in the handle and weld on a 13 mm socket, the jack's out of commission. Kinda sucked at the time as I was midway through a job working on my wife's car.

But also lucky for me because I got ticked off enough to go buy a nice jack. And while the new one I now have is 3x more expensive, it's clearly much nicer to use. Rolls a lot easier and smoother. Releases in a much more controlled fashion. Supposedly it's much less likely to fail (the hydraulics), which is somewhat of a safety issue and peace-of-mind knowing I'm less likely to get stuck in the middle of a job in the future. And if anything ever breaks, I know where to get replacement parts instead of having to jury rig something or junk the whole thing.
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Last edited by Noah930; 09-24-2013 at 10:32 PM..
Old 09-24-2013, 10:15 PM
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The Chinese stuff does not really bother me because I just checked...Vizio TV, Pioneer surround sound system, all our cell phones, printer, computers, tablets, couch, floor jack, jackstands, coffee tables cordless phones, just about everything I buy at Costco, Lowe's and Home Depot and Target comes from China. I think my Grand kids will use this Costco jack!
Old 09-25-2013, 04:33 PM
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Fwiw have a 20 year old 3.5 t Costco jack, works like the day I got it, and it's been to hell and back in this time
Old 09-26-2013, 06:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Noah930 View Post
I don't know if there are any aluminum jacks made in America. Snap-On ones certainly aren't.
Brunnhoelzl jacks are aluminum and made in the USA. Top quality, american made, used in Nascar, $1000 plus last time I looked.
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Old 09-27-2013, 01:35 PM
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Just chiming in since I scanned the thread and I don't see it mentioned.. but consider the ESCO brand jack stands sold by our host and others.. I have a set of flat topped ones for the front of the car and a set of the saddle style which I use under the torsion tubes (inboard, not the torsion bar covers). Wonderfully sturdy.. the triangular base and pin-through design seem way sturdier than your typical ratcheting jack stand with a square base....... Porsche 911 & Carrera Tools - Page 2

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Old 09-27-2013, 01:57 PM
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