I don't know what the previous owner used, but it probably wasn't synthetic. I put synthetic in it. The synthetic did a good job of cleaning out the gunk in the engine, but I think that is one reason the leak has gotten worse. The first oil change there was a ton of moly-looking stuff on the drain plug, the second change a couple of months later looked better but still had traces of moly. When I did the valves, it was cleaner than I could have imagined. It took 4 years, maybe 4K miles, but now the leak is getting worse. The oil looks great but possibly it has cleaned out all the stuff that was plugging the leak lol. I've been looking for an excuse to do my first engine drop.

eos part number is 88862586, about burning yourself with 21o degree oil. Put a wrench on the plugs and lossen them, Put a long extension with a ujoint 15 mm socket and finish removing the plugs at a distance. They will fall in the oil but can be removed with a magnet. This will leave your hands in tact. JL

Why pay double the money for synthetic and then pay to add Zddp if there is no benefit? Also, lest we forget, some of those 4 stroke MC or racing oils don't have all the additives needed. Your motor was designed for 20W50 dino oil with boatloads of Zddp and Brad Penn fits the bill.
Having said that (and will all due respect to the very knowledgeable people on this board): Religion, Politics, and Brand of Oil. You'll never change someone's mind.

I'm not against Brad Penn oil--and I'm sure it's great--but I wouldn't know a quart of it if I had two girls oil wrestling in a kiddie pool full of it in my front yard. Never seen the stuff, can't get it anywhere in Austin, and frankly having to special order oil over the internet doesn't save me a dime when they charge $25+ to ship a case (on top of waiting 10 days for it to show up). When Brad Penn finds its way to Austin, I will be first in line. Til then, this $9 a bottle full synthetic Royal Purple will have to do.

search function comes to the rescue
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/tex-mex-tx-ok-nm-mexico/504013-brad-penn-austin-texas.html

I've been running AMSOIL 20W50 in the 911 and Swepco in the gearbox for almost 3 years and I change it and the Mahle filter once a year. I put 4k miles on it and store it in the winter. I run AMSOIL 5W30 in my 2010 MazdaSpeed3 and AMSOIL 75w90 in the gearbox of the MazdaSpeed3. No problems or leaks. Engine temps are 10 degrees lower than when I ran Castrol 20W50 in the 911.

Thats whats cool about Royal Purple( you could tell)... Thanks for the vision.:cool: Some one photoshop...SmileWavy

I wouldnt. No reason to.

I get my Mobil1 V-twin at Auto Zone in Austin on Burnet By the case
they have it every time or will get it by next day

i use the valvoline vr1 20/50 as it advertises increased zddp.

anything else i might say on the subject is just repeating what i've heard others say/claim.

I used to use Castrol 20w-50 and it was fine, except I had a hard time get around to changing the oil every 3000 miles. Much over 3000 miles and you could see, on the oil see the oil breaking down on the pressure gauge. At the same temp and RPM the oil pressure would be every so slightly lower than before, a needle width maybe. I switched to Royal Purple 20w-50 and even after 7000 miles, the oil pressure is unchanged. I consider it cheap insurance. It's a daily driver and I'm on the raged edge of lazy so I like having a oil that is still with me, even if I let it go a while. It also runs a little cooler too.

Mike

This is exactly the situation I'm in, running Castrol but switching to Royal Purple--and if it really does run cooler with synthetic, which frankly I didn't think was possible, that single fact would be worth it. In the 100+ heat here in Austin my car sees 220+ degrees on a normal drive. Now, all I have is the carrera trombone oil cooler, but still 220?! Anything would help.

How did you know it was fine?

It's an assumption: 31 years old, 214000 miles, daily driver, runs great, sees the red line at least once nearly everytime it's driven, 1 bar+/1000 rpm oil pressure...I don't know seems fine.

not sure that running the oil that produces the highest 'oil pressure' reading at the sensor is necessarily the right choice.

any thoughts on this?

I think investors with Madoff thought things "seemed fine" too. You haven't read the oil thread have you? :)

Pure and simple.... Synthetic oil is over rated!

I have used synthetic oils in the past but I keep coming back to Dyno.
Why? Because it works and it costs less.

Don't get sucked into the marketing hype.

(I change my oil twice a year regardless of mileage)

I am on my first Brad Penn oil change. I have higher engine temps and higher oil consumption. I think I'll try something else. Maybe Castrol 20/50 with GM EOS

I use Kendall GT1 20w50. It has the right additives. is $35 a case. is Dino. use a qt every 1k miles. my engine looks like it was just polished inside when i do my valves. its also bone dry. my reason for not switching is that if its not broken, why fix it. I change my oil 1x a year... drive 2k miles... Most of the 20w50 oils are ok because the wear reduction rules dont apply to 20w50. some are better than others. Id stick to Kendall, Valvoline, etc.

"I think investors with Madoff thought things "seemed fine" too. You haven't read the oil thread have you? "

Well, I guess if you think my oil temp and pressure guages are in a conspiracy to defraud me maybe things aren't fine, but they do "seem fine." I think they’re giving me accurate info and I know Bernie has never driven my car.

I have perused the oil threat, it is kind of long and confusing, but I'll give it another look.

I’m not bashing dyno oil or praising synthetic oil. I’m just relating what I have experienced. I’m not talking about the oil with the “highest” oil pressure, I’m talking about oil pressure staying in the normal range for a longer period of time (mileage); over twice as long. If I could get around to changing my oil every 3000 miles, I would have probably stuck with Castrol GTX.