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Question about cutting spot welds for panel replacement/my restoration begins

Are these the spot welds that need to be cut for the outer rocker removal? They seem to be very irregularly spaced. Will they line up correctly with the replacement panel? This is looking down from above the sill/rocker area:





Also replacing the lock post. shouldn't there be spot welds here:






For areas like the fender support where the panel attaches to the tub, do you still drill holes all the way through?

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Sean
1982 SC D-Stock #372
NASA GTS2
1971T restoration in progress, read about it here:
http://911restorationmadness.blogspot.com/

Last edited by sfoster13; 11-03-2009 at 05:00 PM..
Old 11-02-2009, 05:11 AM
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1/4 drill bit and take your time. drill out all spot welds. after drilled out pop remaining weld with flat wide screw driver and hammer. youll likely find leaded seams where panels meet and a torch will melt away lead or just use die grinder and weld back your panel. good luck...
Old 11-02-2009, 08:22 AM
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thanks - still a little confused. do i drill all the way through weld creating a hole or just the top portion/panel
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Sean
1982 SC D-Stock #372
NASA GTS2
1971T restoration in progress, read about it here:
http://911restorationmadness.blogspot.com/
Old 11-02-2009, 08:51 AM
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I used a spot weld cutter, cost $3.



It leaves a perfect hole for when you go to weld it all back together.
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Old 11-02-2009, 08:58 AM
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You drill thru the top peice of sheet metal to remove panel.

You should check out the Paint & Bodywork Forum, lots of info.

This is what I'm working on.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/paint-bodywork-discussion-forum/498431-front-bumper-shock-support-rust-repair.html
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Old 11-02-2009, 09:02 AM
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+1 on the spot weld cutter. Relatively cheap and cuts them out perfect. I highly recommend BLAIR cutters.. this one in particular-Premium Spotweld Cutter with Pilot Pin
First measure the diameter of the spotweld and get a cutter that close to the same size, a little bit bigger is better than smaller. The standard size is 3/8.
Use a small center (prick) punch to make a indent in the CENTER of the spot weld. You can now use a small drill bit ( slightly bigger than the acutal cutters pilot) to drill a pilot hole in the spot weld. I have found that while it takes a little longer, it makes it a lot easier and precise in the long run. Take your time and drill through the top panel (as sailchef said). Much easier than using just a big drill bit. Also, it is sometimes necessary to use a small chisel to separate the panels, but go easy so you don't ruin the bottom panel. Good Luck!
Old 11-02-2009, 09:28 AM
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I have that spot weld cutter, but was blowing through both panels. Thanks. I've also found that the panels seem fused everywhere, not just at the welds.
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Sean
1982 SC D-Stock #372
NASA GTS2
1971T restoration in progress, read about it here:
http://911restorationmadness.blogspot.com/
Old 11-02-2009, 09:36 AM
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Hmm, I have never had a problem with going through both panels. As with the seam being bonded the entire length, I am guessing whitesc59 might have the right idea
Quote:
Originally Posted by whiteSC59 View Post
youll likely find leaded seams where panels meet and a torch will melt away lead or just use die grinder and weld back your panel. good luck...
. Hope you can find someone a little more knowledgeable as far as Porsches go, as I am certainly no p-car expert, I just have quite a bit of experience with body restoration work (240z's, american muscle cars). good luck.
Old 11-02-2009, 09:46 AM
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rocker welds

DarylD's 912 restoration journal will answer most of your questions:

DarrylD's Porsche 912 Restoration Project Journal

I just did the rocker replacement on my 1970 targa, and there were spot welds along the upper edge as you picture AND along the vertical seam immediately below it, where the longitudinal, the inner rocker, and the outer rocker all pinch together. Drilling out the welds on the upper seam alone won't release it.

Mike
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Old 11-02-2009, 11:34 AM
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How did you decide where to cut the quarter panel?
Old 11-02-2009, 01:17 PM
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sean,
take a blowtorch to thje bottom of the lockpost where it joins the rocker.
that joint is sealed with lead (as opposed to bondo), you'll see the place to cut.
where you cut the quarter depends on what you need to replace.
if you're replacing the kidney support you'll need to cut the quarter to get access.
if not and the quarter is solid, don't cut it just drill out the spotwelds to the lockpost
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1972 E pos
correction: expensive pos
someday....
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Old 11-02-2009, 01:38 PM
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thanks bob
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Sean
1982 SC D-Stock #372
NASA GTS2
1971T restoration in progress, read about it here:
http://911restorationmadness.blogspot.com/
Old 11-02-2009, 01:40 PM
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well, I figured out how to cut the spot welds out...almost wished I hadn't









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Sean
1982 SC D-Stock #372
NASA GTS2
1971T restoration in progress, read about it here:
http://911restorationmadness.blogspot.com/
Old 11-03-2009, 02:29 PM
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good work!
here's a link to my fix, it will help you understand the layers.
rusty sill repair - Early 911S Registry Bulletin Board
looks like you're going to have to cut the quarter.
i did it slightly differently than darryl.
BTW ill try to mail the rocker tomorrow.
bob
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1972 E pos
correction: expensive pos
someday....
"shut up and drive!"
Old 11-03-2009, 03:36 PM
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Nice work. Looks like you will be doing inside rockers and your jack post.

Keep the pictures comming. I'll be doing the same thing after I put the front end back together. I don't think I have has much damage but you can never tell.
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Old 11-03-2009, 04:25 PM
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BTW, this is what it looked like when I bought it:



Bondo is an amazing thing

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Sean
1982 SC D-Stock #372
NASA GTS2
1971T restoration in progress, read about it here:
http://911restorationmadness.blogspot.com/
Old 11-03-2009, 04:32 PM
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