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Is sand blasting really using sand?

Hi, is sand blasting really using sand? I was under the impression that I just bought a bag of fine sand and use but I could be wrong. If not, where do I get the stuff I need?

Thanks,

David

Old 11-04-2004, 08:31 AM
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Sand blasting uses sand. Glass beading uses fine silica or garnet, media blasting can be anything from soda ash to plastic.

It all depends on your equipment and the parts you want to blast.

Sanblasting is very abrasive and will remove metal, that's why critical parts are glass beaded.
Old 11-04-2004, 08:35 AM
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Sandblasting does mean the use of sand. But the term could be used kind of loosely. People here tend to be pretty accurate though, by using terms like Glass or Plastic bead, Soda, Sand or peen blasting. There are different grits and sizes of the media also.

Try to source locally by looking in the Yellow Pages or the Thomas Register. I believe Eastwood and others sell via the internet as well.

That being said you'll need a decent sized compressor and good respiration protection...be prepared for a mess unless you have a blasting cabinet.
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Old 11-04-2004, 08:37 AM
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How about bumpers on a 77 911. I am just getting lazy and don't feel like anymore chemical stripping?

Thanks,

David
Old 11-04-2004, 08:37 AM
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There are dozens of media used in "sandblasting" including many grades of plastic media, several grades of sand, silica carbide, crushed walnut shells, glass beads, etc. Your choice of media, and how much pressure you use, depends on what you're trying to accomplish. What are you doing?
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Old 11-04-2004, 08:38 AM
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David,
If you are looknig for sand for your blaster you might try a local cement or concrete company. I buy my sand locally at a place that sells sand for these companys along with all sorts of rocks and stones for water foutains,patios.........etc
Old 11-04-2004, 08:56 AM
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Wavey you said walnut shells!!! Here in socal off the 5 freeway near the train yard is a huge pile of crushed walnut shells that gets sent out to various places. Never knew what it was until I needed some. Used it to blast some funky paint off an old house.


If you are only stripping bumpers chemical stripping is pretty fast and would be cheaper unless you have access to a large blasting hood or acid dip tank. I have used Aircraft stripper, that stuff is the best.
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Old 11-04-2004, 08:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Porschekid962
I have used Aircraft stripper, that stuff is the best.
I second that, aircraft stipper is very strong and make sure you use a mask and some gloves......oh and dont for get a bucket of soap and water in case you get that stuff on your arms it stings!
Old 11-04-2004, 09:01 AM
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How about bumpers on a 77 911. I am just getting lazy and don't feel like anymore chemical stripping?
**************************************************
Argeo,
I had my bumpers on my '77 bead blasted, then primed and painted. No problems at all. Looked great.
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Old 11-04-2004, 09:02 AM
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I wouldn't sandblast the aluminum bumpers - it's too aggressive and you'll spend more time priming and sanding over and over to get them back to square one. But the paint would grip exceptionally well!

I agree, aircraft stripper is the best thing to use for this purpose.
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Old 11-04-2004, 09:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Wavey
I wouldn't sandblast the aluminum bumpers - it's too aggressive and you'll spend more time priming and sanding over and over to get them back to square one. But the paint would grip exceptionally well!
Have you ever done this before?

I did and its not a problem. With the appropriate primer build this is the fastest way to go.
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Old 11-04-2004, 09:19 AM
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What BG says. Using fine sand to sandblast a bumper gives you a perfect surface for priming. A good primer-surfacers will easily cover all the etch marks.
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Old 11-04-2004, 09:22 AM
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The best and easiest way to get something blasted (no matter what you want to use) is to find a local buisness that does that for a living.
You take the parts and explain what you want, they take care of it and you hand them some bucks.
Fast, easy, clean.
Most places like that employ blasters who really don't make much money so overhead is low. I bet they'd do bumpers foraround $20 each.

I have a 14' x 12' fully enclosed blasting booth in my shop at work and we don't even use it any more, not cost effective.

We just call BD&G sandblasting, they pick up and deliver.
I can get very large (tons) complicated parts powder blasted for a couple hundred, no way could my people do it that cheap.
Definitely worth farming out.
Old 11-04-2004, 10:55 AM
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I would get aluminum parts media blasted by someone who does that for a living. We have a local guy who charges by the hour. Doesn't cost much.
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Old 11-04-2004, 11:46 AM
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Actually, very few people use sand anymore. If they do they are risking a lawsuit for silicosis. Most "sand" these days is aluminum oxide. 220 grit should be fine enough not to do any metal damage.
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Old 11-04-2004, 11:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by sammyg2
Most places like that employ blasters who really don't make much money so overhead is low. I bet they'd do bumpers foraround $20 each.

I wish that were the case here. I called many blasters here in Northern NJ to bead blast an aluminum BBQ grill assembly. The cheapest quote was $150.

If anyone knows of a cheaper place in the area please let me know.
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Old 11-04-2004, 12:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by BGCarrera32
Have you ever done this before?

I did and its not a problem. With the appropriate primer build this is the fastest way to go.
Yeah, quite a bit. There really is an advantage because like I said, the paint will grip like mad into the sandblasted surface. I just don't like using a method that requires more primer/surfacer for several reasons - the top paint layer is more easily damaged with the thicker layer under it, and as the solvents continue to evaporate out of the primer it shrinks in and can show the imperfections more. But I agree, as long as you hold the pressure back, use a fine sand and a good quality primer.
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Last edited by Wavey; 11-04-2004 at 02:20 PM..
Old 11-04-2004, 02:12 PM
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I've sandblasted countless car parts and later primed/painted them, and it really is the best way to go. Especially if there is even any rust. As someone else stated, the primer sticks like mad. I always used a buildable, sandable primer and it easily fills any imperfections from the sand. That said, you can warp panels by sandplasting them aggressively. The sand I prefer is called "Black Beauty" and boy does that stuff cut!
Old 11-04-2004, 02:25 PM
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Thanks everyone for the input.

After all the input I have decided I will use sand. As far as paying someone around here to do it (MA), labor ain't cheap so I stick to the do it myself. I'll make a few phone calls to see the price and report back. As far as sandblasting, I'll keep a distance and try to go lightly. I would think sanding any imperfections on the bumpers would be the easy part. Can't I just use a 80 grit paper on my orbital sander (I think that is the name for sander running off compressor). Please correct me if I am wrong here to prevent undue suffering.

I used Aircraft remover for the whole car and am now tired of scrapping. Figured I have the tools, might as well use them so I can spend my time doing something a bit more constructive. Plus winter is coming so time is an issue also.

Thanks again everyone. I would certainly be screwed without this board.

David
Old 11-05-2004, 04:47 AM
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David,

I recently sandblasted a project car. I made a sandblasting/paint booth like others on the board. Just swapped the plastic sheeting after completing the blasting. I used "Play sand" from Lowes.

Beware, breathing the dust from sand blasting can cause lung damage (silicosis). I used a fresh air mask/hood.

Here's a picture of the booth. I made it big enough to park the P-car in. Don't worry, I didn't blast the car!


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Old 11-05-2004, 05:01 AM
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