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Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Illinois
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Webers backfiring?
I did a search and didn't see this particular issue so I am asking for help. I have a problem with backfiring through the carburetors on my 70 911T. I bought this car a month or so ago and it hadn't been running since 2000. I took it straight to my mechanic and he got it mostly sorted out and running well except for this backfiring issue. It idles fine and when you get on the throttle it seems fine. The backfiring happens just above idle when you are not giving it a lot of gas. Also, it is worse as the engine gets warmer. Already checked for air leaks around the carb stacks etc. We tried richening up the idle jets. Checked timing as well. My next thought is to check valves? Any ideas?
Thanks for the help. Kirk
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70T 2.7RS spec. 68L coupe |
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Sean 1982 SC D-Stock #372 NASA GTS2 1971T restoration in progress, read about it here: http://911restorationmadness.blogspot.com/ |
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Join Date: Feb 2006
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where are you?
are throttle shafts tight? i THINK valves out of adjustment can contribute.
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***************************************** Well i had #6 adjusted perfectly but then just before i tightened it a butterfly in Zimbabwe farted and now i have to start all over again! I believe we all make mistakes but I will not validate your poor choices and/or perversions and subsidize the results your actions. |
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I am in Illinois.
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70T 2.7RS spec. 68L coupe |
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It could be alot of things but start with the basics - Take them apart and clean all the jets and mixture screws, etc.... I have 44's in my speedster replica and they are notorious for getting dirty. Floats may need adjusting as well. I am having exactly the same issue with mine right now and plan to do a thorough cleaning in the next few weeks before I put it away for the rest of the winter. If a good cleaning with carb cleaner doesn't do it then I'll be ordering rebuild kits. My car sat outside pretty much all summer. A lot of dust and debris can accumulate from simple exposure as well as gaskets and seals rotting. Again, give them a good once over before anything.
Remember to pay attention to where your settings are so you can return them to where they were when you put them back in. (i.e. count the turns to close before you unscrew them and remember to close them up and unscrew them back the equal number of turns). I hope that made sense.
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1983 SC - sold 2002 996 C4S - sold 1968 912 |
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I should have mentioned that we took them off and rebuilt them as well. One thing we noticed was that these have a size 32 choke rather than a 30 like the specs say. I am guessing these may have come off of a 911s. It doesn't backfire on decel. Just light accelleration and sometimes pops at idle when it has been running a while.
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70T 2.7RS spec. 68L coupe |
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Join Date: Feb 2006
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Pops (muffler) or spits (stacks)?
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***************************************** Well i had #6 adjusted perfectly but then just before i tightened it a butterfly in Zimbabwe farted and now i have to start all over again! I believe we all make mistakes but I will not validate your poor choices and/or perversions and subsidize the results your actions. |
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Spits through stacks.
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70T 2.7RS spec. 68L coupe |
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(the shotguns)
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Location: Maryland
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as a general rule i understand stack spits to be lean and muffler pops to be rich. BUT i think this is assuming a good valve adjustment as a starting point so absent verification that valves are adjusted right we can't say with absolute certainty that this is the case.
Can you replicate the spitting while the car is in neutral and thus hold a mirror (to collect fuel droplets) or paper over the stacks to see which throat it is? If so i'd check the adjustment for those valves. lots of popping/spitting in my webers was resolved by fixing loose throttle shafts. no amount of tuning was going to get around it. i would further surmise that any tuning to negate these symptoms at idle would leave you with imperfect settings further up in the rev range.
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***************************************** Well i had #6 adjusted perfectly but then just before i tightened it a butterfly in Zimbabwe farted and now i have to start all over again! I believe we all make mistakes but I will not validate your poor choices and/or perversions and subsidize the results your actions. |
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(the shotguns)
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Maryland
Posts: 21,620
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note that there are experts on this forum at webers and i am not one of them. i'm more of the 'pre game show'.
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***************************************** Well i had #6 adjusted perfectly but then just before i tightened it a butterfly in Zimbabwe farted and now i have to start all over again! I believe we all make mistakes but I will not validate your poor choices and/or perversions and subsidize the results your actions. |
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Location: Illinois
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We did richen it up the idle jets and that helped but didn't completely solve the issue. I think the next step will be to check valves. I will also check the throttle shafts. Thanks for the help.
kirk
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70T 2.7RS spec. 68L coupe |
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Although I have very little experience with Webers I had a similar problem with the Zeniths on my 69. It turned out to be the point gap. I would definitely check that you are getting a correct spark and that your timing is right. I would look into replacing your distributor cap, rotor and wires.
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1969 911T - The "Rat" 1997 A4 Quattro 2.8 (270k) - Black Kaniget - Dead but not forgotten 2010 Jetta TDI Sportwagen - Egg Butt (also Spewing Dragon) 2001 Eurovan Weekender - Bruni |
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I trhink I might be barking up the wrong tree. I just realized that the distributor on this car is a 2.7 dizzy. I am thinking that is the problem. How difficult is it to have it re curved or should I just buy the correct one?
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70T 2.7RS spec. 68L coupe |
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