Oil Pressure Sensor 3.2

[Rtrorkt]

Gents, how easy (or hard) is it to replace this unit?

[Rtrorkt]

Apologies. Should be oil pressure SENDING UNIY

[jbell959]

Pretty quick and easy. It's just to the right of the fan. Unscrew the old one and screw in the new one. Shouldn't take more than a few minutes.

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[Synchro Joe]

Here's an excellent procedure for changing out the oil pressure sending unit.
https://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/502982-another-oil-pressure-sender-replacement-thread-pics.html

The low oil pressure switch for the idiot light is in the triangle of death on the back side of the engine. Different sensors.

[scarceller]

Very difficult to remove the sensor from the mounting block in the car. Far simpler to remove the mounting block with sensor still in the block. Then on the bench swap the old sensor out of the block.

[proporsche]

well..if you have the a/c it is kinda pita...after if you have the correct tools it could be an easy job but..look at this disaster Some idiot broke the case....
the best to go about it on 3,2 is this tool .If it does not budge remove the a/c bracket -for that you have to remove the muffler.as said above remove the complete block.

As you can see not that easy..here is what somebody did and after they put J.B weld on it...told the client -sorry and here is the tool to loose the oil sending unit from the block..
BTW what is wrong with yours-you did not say?

[jbell959]

Originally Posted by proporsche

well..if you have the a/c it is kinda pita...after if you have the correct tools it could be an easy job but..look at this disaster Some idiot broke the case....

the best to go about it on 3,2 is this tool .If it does not budge remove the a/c bracket -for that you have to remove the muffler.as said above remove the complete block.



As you can see not that easy..here is what somebody did and after they put J.B weld on it...told the client -sorry and here is the tool to loose the oil sending unit from the block..

BTW what is wrong with yours-you did not say?

Never replaced one on an A/C car so didn't think about that.

I'm not sure i understand why it's difficult to remove the sender from the block?

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[scarceller]

They likely broke the case because they did not remove the block with the sensor
I always remove the block then replace the sensor on the bench.
That job in those pictures is a disaster!

Sometimes it takes a lot of force to get the sensor out of the block, but getting the block out with sensor is much easier and requires little force.

[proporsche]

Originally Posted by scarceller

They likely broke the case because they did not remove the block with the sensor
I always remove the block then replace the sensor on the bench.
That job in those pictures is a disaster!

Sometimes it takes a lot of force to get the sensor out of the block, but getting the block out with sensor is much easier and requires little force.

tell me about it...i might have to get a new case-so far nobody when i asked would be willing to fix it...I get these screw-ups here plenty here in Bohemia..i told the client it will be almost impossible to repair.Now i sent the case to him and he will try some company in Austria ..we will see.
Since i am talking about screw ups , have you ever seen this kind of repair on cylinder heads.Shaved and replaced with a metal spacer?that is another engine i am working on

[spuggy]

Originally Posted by jbell959

I'm not sure i understand why it's difficult to remove the sender from the block?

Because after it's been undisturbed for a long time, the sender can require a very significant amount of force to break it free from the block - even if it was originally tightened correctly (eg just enough to crush the washer and seal). Many report putting it in a bench vice and having it take surprising amounts of force (and possibly heat) to break the seal.

A steel fastener in an aluminum thread will result in galvanic corrosion if you don't use something (like assembly lube, grease or oil) to prevent it.

With the result that applying too much force to the sender while mounted on the car directs too much force via the hollow through bolt (that holds the block to the case), in a direction that the case material around the hollow oil gallery wasn't designed or intended to withstand.

So the crow's foot approach, while it has worked for some, if not used cautiously can also lead to this scenario:



From Broke of piece of metal, how to fix?

[dictoresno]

I did mine a few months ago (86 Carrera with A/C) and it was a pain. took over 4 hours of tedious repetitive wrenching to get it free, and then a few more to get it to thread. I verified with close up pics that the copper washer was making good contact. for anyone without the A/C bracket, it's an easy job for sure. with the bracket, good luck. grab a few beers and let the cursing rip.





and of course, with no A/C bracket its easy....

[PopsRacer]

stupid stupid question - how does that connector come off? Tried turning it, squeezing it, pulling it.
I really don’t want to break it.

[PopsRacer]

stupid stupid question - how does that connector come off? Tried turning it, squeezing it, pulling it.
I really don’t want to break it.

[Rtrorkt]

resurrecting this thread. After futsing around with the push on connector, I was on my way to my shop when holy crap, the gauge is working as it should. 1.5 bar at idle just north of 4 bar at 3krpm. Does a bit of bouncing as well. My expert says it is the wire connector. Early models had a treaded rod and nut to secure the connection.

So does anyone have a method to tighten the connector within the plastic housing? Was thinking if I could find a thin piece of copper I could wrap that around the terminal to try to tighten things up. Any suggestions are welcome

And if anyone needs a 3.2 oil pressure sending unit I have one for sale.

[PeteKz]

Squeeze the terminal with a pair of pliers, slightly.

[pmax]

Originally Posted by proporsche

...

Ouch, do those plugs(?) help ?

[PopsRacer]

Originally Posted by PeteKz

Squeeze the terminal with a pair of pliers, slightly.

Thanks!

[Rtrorkt]

Now that I figured out my issue is connection between gauge and unit, what makes a “bouncy” needle? Just continued bad connection or the gauge?

[wazzz]

Usually it is the sensor that is worn. Mine does a bit of bouncing too, essentially at idle, when engine is warm and oil pressure is around 1 bar. The sensor is a variable resistor, a sort of pot. Pot cursor must be wearing the part of the resistance where it spends most of its time. Hence a bad contact.
The gauge is an analog voltmeter, and they seldom fail this way. If needle bounces it only reflects the erratic signal it gets from the sensor.

[Rtrorkt]

Thank you. Would a bit of dialectic grease help the contacts or is that inappropriate for this application?