Ball Joint Replacement - What Hardware gets replaced too?
 

Going to do a total refurb of my suspension, ball joints, tie rods, ER polybronze bushings etc.. For ball joints, how much of the associated hardware needs to get replace for sure? I expect to destroy the nut getting them off, what about the pin and other bits? should I just order them and replace or is it worth waiting to pull stuff and evaluate then?

Thanks

Kinsley

i am in the middle of doing it. i would plan on replacing the entire set of hardware

once you get the spanky new ball joint on it seems a shame not to go all the way

cotter pin, big flat washer with the notches ( forgot the name ), tapered bolt, flat washer and lock nut

Agreed...other than the Big nut and Joint, the other pieces don't cost that much...I did the same project(s) last year. If the big nut (Castle or Castellated) doesn't come off, first try a torch and puch. If not, don't waste time like I did, simply hack it out with a dremel (use good gloves, the metal shavings are like fiberglass). If you get far enough in...check your torsion bars. The bushings had all worn on mine and the bars were becoming etched.

The big threaded ring is typically destroyed or at least knackered up in removal.

Porsche recommends the wedge pin be replaced each time. The cotter pin too should be replaced everytime.

That only leaves the lock plate and nut, both inexpensive items.

We allways replace all of it as a matter of course.

I agree.

Make sure the washer is the proper hard washer (it has a Porsche part number) and the nut a steel lock nut (not Nylock).

The wedge pin the proper angle OE-type part. There are aftermarket versions with an incorrect angle to the wedge. Search Pelican – I wrote on this.

Be sure and install with everything greased. The threads of the wedge pin and tie-rod should only get WD-40.

A couple of drops of SAE90 Hypoid gear oil in the ball joints, tie rod ends, and tie rod joints are worthwhile. Be sure and ‘exercise’ to their extreme all the joints prior to installation.

Be aware that there is an early (prior to about ’74) lower by half torque spec for the big ring nut for the ball joint to A-arm.

While the original Factory P-280b works well, there is an aftermarket version that has a ring around the original tool to keep it centered. This is far preferable. I use a floor jack under the torque wrench to make sure proper tool engagement is maintained.

These are THE MOST CRITICAL parts and assembly in a 911. There is no such thing as ‘too much care’.

Best,
Grady

Great info, hey Chuck and Grady.Is it the season to do suspension work or is there a trend lately to do this work. At least from the number of posts. Maybe I should jump on that train!
Oh, one question, I see all the time people using true race parts when renewing suspensions. What is the long term durability over OEM stuff. Witch last 30-40 years.

Thanks for all the detailed replies. I'll just replace everything.

Grady, I have two questions based on your reply;

1. Is the P-280b you are referring to the wrench to fit the large nut?
2. Is it easier to take off and put on the ball joint with the A-arm on the car or when it's out?

Thanks again

Sixteen year thread ressurection, I know, but I'm not trying to win the most Pelican threads started, I am trying to get a question answered, so, in the spirit of "There is no such thing as ‘too much care’." I ask...

Grady (RIP) said... "Make sure the washer is the proper hard washer (it has a Porsche part number) and the nut a steel lock nut (not Nylock)."

To wit, I recently ordered wedge bolts, washers and nuts directly from Porsche.

Unfortunately, they delivered Nyloc nuts, as opposed to steel lock nuts.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1749505040.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1749504406.jpg

What's the current thinking here? Do I need to go find steel lock nuts somewhere?

Any hardware that is suspect of corrosion or rust should be tossed. My strut cartridge retainer pins were rusted a bit, so they are cheap and I replaced.

That's the kind of thing that would be safety wired when used in competitive situations.

I asked the same in a thread in the past. Nylock is fine per other pros.

You can find steel lock nuts on McMaster, etc, but in this application I don't think it's necessary.

Fair enough. To be clear, these are the ball joint to Boge strut wedge bolts and not the strut cartridge retainers as used on Bilstein struts.

I did have my safety wire pliers on hand. ;-) I ended up just marking the fasteners with a paint pen.

Excellent. Thanks.

Now to run down the thunking in the suspension. It wasn't the ball joints.

My error, I should have said the wedge bolts for ball-joint.

Thanks Frank. I love to see the old Grady posts pop back up.

Right?

Guy is still adding value posthumously. #respect