Removing Window Frames and Trim?
 

Before I incapacitate my car, I figured I'd ask the board prior to embarking on a new endeavor.

The PO painted the chrome door frames and window trim black, so I'm sure I don't need to elaborate on their current look. I want to remove the door window frames and window trim, and have them powercoated.

Can I simply lower the window half way, remove the bolts, and slide the frame out of the door? Does the frame come apart to allow the vent windows to be easily removed, or are they set in place like the windshield?

On another note, can the metal trim below the rear side windows be removed without removing the windows themselves? Lastly, how is the metal trim strip on the door top removed?

Thanks!!

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Michael
'78 911SC Euro

-Lower the window all the way, remove all the bolts from the frame. There are several; hunt carefully. There's a diagram here on Pelican for it that should help. There is also a bracket bolted on the middle "leg" of the frame that will prevent removal of the frame until you unbolt it.

-Vent windows easily removed after you remove the frame.

-You must remove the rear 1/4 windows to get the trim out. They have five screws in them, each.

-The metal trim on top of the door just pops out. Spring clips. Shouldn't require anything more than a screwdriver wrapped in a rag or just your fingers.

-d



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Dave
1972 911T (E motor) RSR replica project
http://members.nbci.com/dtwinters/garage/

Michael,

I'm not sure I can answer all your questions, but I'll try. First of all let me mention mine is a '72 so yours may be different.

The trim at the top of the door windows is held on by clips and can be pried straight up to remove. People told me to use a paint scraper wrapped in masking tape to preserve the paint.

The trim at the bottom of the quarter window was held on by small screws. I removed the window to take this off (but I was stripping the car). All of mine came out easily, but I've heard the little screws often strip and need to be drilled out.

The door window trim comes out after removing about a million allen head bolts. I've only tried this on a spare door though, I haven't gotten to it on my doors yet. On the spare door I had to disconnect the window regulator and remove the glass first. There was one bracket on the bottom of one of the vertical pillars that had to be removed before the frame would come out through the openng in the top of the door. The vent window remained attached.

There is a good article in upfixin' der Porsche about this. Unfortunately It is at home and I'm at work...

Hope this helps some.

Charlie
'72 911 T

Thanks, but I can't seem to find the diagram?

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Michael
'78 911SC Euro

http://www.pelicanparts.com/911/911_Parts/1974-75/8-7.JPG

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Dave
1972 911T (E motor) RSR replica project
http://members.nbci.com/dtwinters/garage/

Thanks, I didn't think to look in the other year models........

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Michael
'78 911SC Euro

thanks for the thread guys... just getting around to replacing all my felt/seals etc and about to pull the frames out. still not 100% clear on the glass... does it stay all the way down for this? 1/2 way? what to do when re-installing? (how to line it up?) will the regulator still raise it w/o frames in place?

what about the regulator? any refreshing that can be done there?

thanks.

I remember dropping the regulator and glass completely to the bottom of the door when I removed the window frame (merely slides out the bottom of the frame). I suppose you could reinstall the window mechanism and roll the window up. Make sure the new window frame felt is fully seated otherwise the opening will create drag on window travel. I suggest removing the window and trial-fit it to the newly felted window frame to confirm it slides up/down easily. Excess drag creates add'l stress on the regulator.

If your regulator is original, the clock spring pivot pin will fail, usually soon after reinstalling the trimwork. The other side will fail shortly after you repair the first side. For an upgrade, the scissors-type window regulator on later 911s supposedly has better opening/closing geometry, but I'm not sure of your chances of finding a late model wind up regulator since most were equipped with motors. One of the UpFixin' series has a description of the procedure.

Sherwood

thanks for the input... come to think of it, i read about the felt not being too easy to slide in initially, maybe i'll stick the window in there and let it sit for a day or two before installing... not sure if it will help.

thanks again.

My technique was to manually push each opposing channel into the frame as far as possible, then fashion a wooden block, about the width of the channel opening, and a mallet to seat the channel into the frame. Use your window as a guide for fit. Be aware the bottom of the uninstalled frame is an open U-shape and may provide more clearance while on the workbench compared to its rigid mounting inside the door.

A carpeted or otherwise cushioned work surface ensures the parts aren't scratched as you flail away with the hammer. :)

Sherwood