Last A/C Bracket Removal - ?
 

Need a little help here removing this last vertical bracket - tough to get at this bolt (if it even is a bolt - have not determined if it is yet?)

Everything underneath is off - need to button the car back up after a 5 year slumber - obligitory pic attached.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1262443811.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1262443824.jpg

17mm nut that recesses through the verticle bar..I use a 17mm swivel socket to get to it.
Bruce

Yeah - you would think - I got a swivel and a 17mm and there is no room to get it in there...?

Does that fuel line need to come off?

What kind of socket did you use? (craftsmen here....)

I might be wrong here, but my guess would be you need a stubby socket, a short one?? I'm no mechanic, but it looks like there is enough room?

I got mine off 3 years ago without removing anything. Sorry I can't remember what tools I used, but do remember extra patience and effort was required. PB Blaster, but no heat helped a great deal. Be careful the fastener is threaded into the case half. Might have a better angle at it if you removed the oil pressure sender and feed lines, but that's another tough one.

That's an oil line connected to the pressure sending unit. Anyway, I like your oil storage units!

JB

yeah sorry meant oil line - not sure how much more of a stubby socket I can get in there - if I took the oil line off my guess is I could use an open end and work it off?

I have a set of these http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00934446000P other than not having a 14mm they are great for things like this, and removing CIS.

I removed my a/c years ago too, but if i recall, if you loosen the oil line at the input to the cam housing, you can rotate it out of the way just enough to get a socket with an extension onto that fastener.

JB

Thanks - success...they had the individual swivel socket in 17mm. Came off no problem.

Is there a reason to put the nut back on or can I back out the stud - is it holding anything together?

Put the nut back on the stud.

I put mine back on.

Here is the correct P/N for the A/C nut.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1262537664.jpg

$15 for a nut - I love it. Maybe I should sell it and get an HD special...for .95

that nut (M-10x1) holds the chain cover on (one of 5) no real oil pressure behind it but it is a good idea to replace it on the stud, any old nut will do

"$15 for a nut - I love it. Maybe I should sell it and get an HD special...for .95"

Said nut should have a special stepped external profile (that fits through the strut bar hole) to ensure that an adequate number of stud threads are engaged. High cost is partially due to it being a non-standard nut. Last time I purchased one from Porsche it was $25; many of these non-standard parts are becoming NLA so I wouldn't just toss it. Wire it to the removed strut as someone may require it in the future.

Jim,

Thanks for the proper definition for the step down nut.

Perhaps I should have been a bit more specific about the "Divine " nut...

Here is the story!

While trying to chase down an external engine "buzzing" noise @ about 2000 rpm's we noticed that the A/C compressor bracket mounting bolts were a bit loose.

Removing the A/C belt did eliminate the noise.

Every attempt, swivel sockets ect... to tighten one of the bracket bolts was futile due to the lack of socket access space.

Finally, our mechanic turned down a socket on his lathe, and extracted the bolt.

The question begged, how did the "other guy append the mounting bracket?

I did recall that the factory/dealer did perform a re-seal on the motor in 1988 , at which time the-then machanic must have used a standard nut on the bracket.

We "assumed" that the nut was correct.

A subsequent visit to the dealership produced the correct part which, as you
correctly described, is a step down nut.

The small side of the correct nut accepts a smaller socket, which allows access with a 1/4 or 3/8 drive.

Subsequent to tightening the A/C bracket, re-intalling the compressor & belt, the noise returned.

The "buzzing" noise was in the engine mounted heater motor ducting. (a missing screw).

Thanks,

And best of New Years to all,

Gerry

Interesting -

I put the "divine nut" back on the stud and retorqed...