Shift Linkage Bushes - Help Needed
 

I am replacing the nylon bushes on the shift shaft. I do not want to undo rear joint from either the shaft or from the shift rod for fear of upsetting the setting. From postings here, it seems that adjusting the connection between rod and shaft is troublesome.

However, I cannot see how the rear joint comes apart and the manual gives no direction. How does the thing come apart?

Is it possible to replace the bushes without disturbing the set screws, or do I have to undo the whole shabang?

Any ideas, please?

HBF

I think this diagram will help you. It helped me. And dont be afraid to undo the coupler joint there are many threads about adjusting them and it really is easy.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1262458622.jpg

To re-adjust shifter after changing the bushings, make sure transmission is in 1st gear, then put shifter in 1st gear position, then re-tighten the coupler. That's about it.

Thanks for the postings.

My puzzle is how to disassemble the joint on the right side of the diagram posted by peon77.

I cannot see any retainer clips or set screws.

Is the fulcrum pin a press fit? That seems to be the only way that the whole lot stays together.

HBF

If you are replacing the shaft bushing as you stated just remove the set screw at the back of the joint. To answer your question about the joint pin it is a tight press fit with knurls.

You're not going to get that apart, with it still in the car.

JR

Your initial post noted that you are looking to replace the nylon bushings on the shift shaft. If you are looking to replace the cup on the bottom of the shifter (shown in red) or the nylon bushing that supports the shaft from a yolk (just to the right of the cup on the diagram), you do not need to undo the rear joint. You can remove the set screw from the casting that holds the cup (it has a tapered end) and then pry the cup forward. Just use a large screw driver. Getting it back on requires that you line everything up and tap it back into place. You only need to loosen up the shift coupler if you find you need to tune in your shifter.

That is the shift coupler. +1 you will have to remove it to replace the bushings. what you can do is mark the shift rod with a marker or awl before removing it. that will help you get it back in the ball park when reassembling.

After you remove the coupler you will have to press the pin out. DO NOT put any pressure on the alum. coupler. I find two sockets to use one is typically a 1/4 drive small socket for the pin and a larger 3/8 drive deep well on the opposite side. you want the inside to be large enough for the pin to go into but not too large as to touch the alum coupler. I use my bench vise to do the pressing you could use a C clamp too. It wont take too much pressure. assembly is the reverse.

Here is a report back for all of those who offered advice.

I now have a new transmission........or so it seems. What a difference $24 spent on new bushings make to a transmission that yesterday felt like it was ready for the trash heap.

Following the advice given above I removed the joint from the car - it really cannot be repaired in situ. I replaced the bushings as instructed. Before removing the joint I marked the shaft with a center punch. This allowed me to get the parts back together more or less where they should be.

One bush was completely disintergrated. The other was far gone. The front shaft bushing was oversize from wear with a lot of play and the shift socket bush was breaking up. 27 years of heat and stress have taken their toll.

I followed the instructions to reinstall and set up the shifter. Everything worked as though the 911 was new again. What a pleasure!!

I am now just back from a blast around the back roads of Connecticut; the 911 and I are both glowing with satisfaction and warmth after an unexpected but delightful mid-winter's outing in the snow and ice. The heating still works a treat in my car, so no cold toes or Chilly noses for me.

Thank again to all who offered advice.

HBF