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I think you're on the right track but don't take my word for it.
Someone should chime in but I've always thought it better to replace large complex areas as a whole rather than bits and pieces.

The cut line looks good and would be OK but can you go a bit further and separate it at the spot welds?
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Old 01-10-2010, 10:11 PM
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Thought about doing that but being that this donor shelf is out of an '87, the location & size of the welded overlap area does not match. This is another reason why I'm leaning toward replacing the whole shelf - the stamping is slightly different. I'm afraid if I replace sections, the raised ridges will not line up.
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Old 01-11-2010, 06:46 AM
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Is there more fiberglass besides the parcel shelf?
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Old 01-11-2010, 07:29 AM
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Bottom half of the headlight buckets, that I know of. Don't know what I'll find under the rockers.
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Old 01-11-2010, 07:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blee View Post
Donor shelf is out of an '87, the location & size of the welded overlap area does not match. This is another reason why I'm leaning toward replacing the whole shelf - the stamping is slightly different. I'm afraid if I replace sections, the raised ridges will not line up.
Post some pics of the issue if you can. So long as the body lines are correct and the flanges mate enough to achieve solidarity the width shouldn't matter. Many of the NOS and repops have incorrect flanges as compared to the factory pieces (most are laughably larger, but some are shorter). I've always operated under the assumption that it is best to replace larger areas when faced with such a choice; that being said, I'm also guilty of welding in a 1" patch (only once, I swear).

Please hurry towards the rockers, I'm in need of some entertainment to keep me occupied this winter . . .

Last edited by 1968Cayman; 01-12-2010 at 01:27 AM.. Reason: problems wit my engleesh
Old 01-11-2010, 08:06 AM
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There must have been a discount sale on fiberglass a few years back because we've got a 912 tub with the same issues. Im pretty sure the entire front pan of our car is held together with the stuff, its obscene.

Keep up the good work.
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Old 01-11-2010, 09:55 AM
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Hey - maybe Colin Chapman tried to Lotusize it!
Old 01-11-2010, 12:43 PM
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one could argue perserving the maximum amount of original metal is the way to go.
also replacing entire panels is not always the easy thing. with unibody construction.
patching is fine as long as no rust remains.
Old 01-11-2010, 02:15 PM
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I have more fiberglass than metal in a bunch of places on my car as well. fender joining panels were mostly fiberglass. must have been a standard repair procedure at some point.
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Old 01-11-2010, 03:07 PM
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Didn't get to probe the rockers yet - did attempt to loosen the front A-arm cover bolts and the whole thing just tore off. I saw that one coming. Still drilling out the donor parcel and contemplating whether to replace the whole thing or not. Progress has slowed dramatically due to a little setback - shoulder surgery this week It's amazing how traumatic surgery is to one's body, even though it may just be a simple procedure. Check out the new shoulder harness and remote reservoir



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Old 01-16-2010, 09:10 AM
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Looks like a great start to a homemade Cool-Suit!
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Old 01-16-2010, 09:17 AM
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Can you bleed brakes with that thing?
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Old 01-16-2010, 10:20 AM
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sorry to hear about the shoulder - yes, any surgery is heavy-duty -- the body is not designed to be opened up for maintenance...
Old 01-16-2010, 12:44 PM
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My mind keeps telling me I need to work on the car, but my body is not cooperating. I tried rubbing some dirt on the shoulder but it didn't help any. Not much progress obviously...
I did manage to finally get the donor parcel "comepletely" off. It was a pain in the arse even with it being in a manageable section that I could flip and turn...I'm not sure if I'll be able to replicate the removal of the parcel on the car this clean. Replacing sections (left and right corners) only is quickly becoming more attractive.
I wonder if anyone would be interested in using this as a template to create replacements? (Restoration Design?)







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70T Ex-Waterlogged Rust Bucket
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Old 01-24-2010, 07:33 PM
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Sorry. Could have shown you this earlier, but I'm not sure of the progress:


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/paint-bodywork-discussion-forum/466913-swb-parcel-shelf-seat-back.html
Old 01-25-2010, 04:52 AM
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Gimpy shoulder is healing so no more excuses...
Coming out of my Oxycodine-induced state, I decided to replace just the corners of the parcel shelf in an attempt to retain more of the original sheetmetal and thinking it would be faster to remove less - what was I thinking? After cutting out 10-inches pieces on both sides, I flipped again and decided it would probably be best to stick with the original plan and just replace the whole darn thing.


What was left wasn't looking good...




Aw-heck, cut some more!




I just hope everything lines up correctly - after I'm done welding.





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Last edited by blee; 02-15-2010 at 07:44 PM..
Old 02-15-2010, 07:08 PM
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Glad you're on the mend. It's looks like you're making good progress.
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Old 02-15-2010, 07:46 PM
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Addressed the passenger-side lower rear window area this weekend. Rust in the rain chanel and underside - thought about welding in patches but the same issues of trying to "jigsaw puzzle" the darn thing made me decide to lop-off a bigger section. Wasn't sure if I should cut the rain chanel, but what the hell...




Donor piece massaged in...


...and viola! My first weld. Hot damn.



Not as easy as braze welding, but I'm hoping to improve. At this rate this things not going to be ready until 2012. Will I get a chance to drive it before the world ends?
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Old 02-28-2010, 07:39 PM
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Are you using Argon with the Mig Brian?
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Old 03-01-2010, 04:31 AM
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I am, but the regulator has been giving me troubles, it seems intermittent? Is it that ugly?
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Old 03-01-2010, 06:36 AM
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