i doubt that its 10,000.
being isolated here in upstate ny i don't have access to a commercial plater.
so i'm doing it 1 piece at a time with a caswell home plating setup.
slow going for sure but i'd guestimate i've plated about 5-600 pieces and am getting close to being at least 3/4 done. i could count them out but the time could be better spent on my rebuild.
(i'm not counting the engine stuff. the hardware kit has 500 pieces).
maybe when i put it all together this summer i could keep a running total.

I see, I thought you meant the engine, sorry, I didn't read your post clearly enough. Ever car has different options with tons of nuts and bolts. It's a large task to figure out what you need for a complete reassembly...

-Wayne

Thanks Wayne, didn't think of that one. Another problem is to just get the hardware to assemble the car, not the internal hardware in seats, gagues, engine and so on....

I'll have a look at the PET and see if it is worth the time to try and make a list for my car. I'm guessing it won't make sense timewise, but I'll give it a shot.

Thanks guys for your input to my somewhat strage question! :)


Regards,

Johan

Ok... i take it back, the PDFs I downloaded from Porsche are protected so I can't copy and paste the part numbers from acrobat to excel.

Wayne, may I ask which book of yours has this list? I think I have bought them all. Thanks.

Compiling a list is one thing. Next, think about the source, then how many of each you'll need (+ spares). Many suppliers only sell by quantity (e.g. 100). Other sources will charge a premium for onesy, twosies; PAG, to name just one.

Then think of how you'll store these for their correct application - by catalog number, size or application? Okay. buy a thousand ziplocks, a few Sharpies and a file drawer unit to store them.

A lot of work, but it beats using one large bucket most folks end up using to their regret.

If Pelican had a concours section, the guys there would eat this up.

Sherwood

When I rebuilt my '65 Mustang - I noticed kits like this available...
1964 1/2 - 1965 Mustang Body Bolt Kit S/S:eBay Motors (item 120472585324 end time Jan-20-10 09:13:50 PST)

there are free unlocking pgms out there & some better ones for a fee

e.g.

A-pdf Restrictions Remover

idea -- you could obtain an upper boundary on the number of hardware by summing each of the highest part #'s in each section -- quick & dirty and you then know it is not higher than that

e.g. the highest # on the 1973 pedal cluster & etc. diagrams:
on diagram 702-00 it is 80
on diagram 702-05 it is 91
skipping the Spurtomatic diagrams, the highest # for the pedal cluster = max(80,91) = 91

then do the same for the other subgroup(s) in Group 7 (Controls):
on diagram 701-00 the highest # is 20
on diagram 701-05 it is 20
on diagram 701-10 it is 23
- those are variants, so max(20,23) = 23 on your Excel sheet

Shift Shaft Diagram - on diagram 701-15 it is 14

Handbrake diagram 701-20 parts count is 62

Sum all the totals from the above Subgroups (shown in magenta):
91+23+14+62 = 190 total parts for the most complex of each diagram

so, the hardware count has to be < 190 for Group 7, Controls



*- checking the accuracy is left as a homework exercise

tomphot, that is EXACTLY what I am looking for. That hardware kit would easily shave hours off my assembly time. It's really not that many parts either, as I expected.

Unfortunately I can't even open up the PET site for '70-73 Porsche 911. Maybe a temporary glitch? Or am I at the wrong web site?

Porsche Classic Original Parts Catalogue - Classic Catalogues - Porsche Classic - Dr. Ing. h.c. F. Porsche AG

I have just prepped my hardware for taking it to the CAD plater on Thursday. I hope it will be better after CAD plating, but looking at it I think I will end up with shiny but worn hardware....



Thanks,

Johan

Try again on the Porsche Web site, the legal PET is there, just hard to find day to day.

Johan, it looks like most of your cars were made after the changeover of the DIN property-class-- i.e. from 8G to 8.8-- so you can use the "modern" bolts that say things like "KAMAX 8.8" on the head. For concours, it's all about the headmarks. Modern ROC or PRC-made stuff just doesn't cut it.

I would go with NEW parts from PP in the critical areas if you have any doubt-- in the suspension, brakes, steering, etc. The real problem is we don't know the headmark or origin, even though the property-class is the same.

a very critical note to take from here...if you are going to take hdwr and/or parts to be re-plated, there is a phenominon called "hydrogen embritlement"... to make a long story VERY short... after the hdwr a/o parts are stripped & re platted, with in 15 minutes, the parts must be baked in an oven for 3-4 hrs min at 400 degrees F. If not, the embritlement can raise its ugly head by fasteners breaking ~ failing in use = not a good thing to happen...
Good luck on this quest...
Bob

This thread is turning out to be much more interesting than my earlier facetious post implied. Recently I've become more interested in accurate yet functional conservation of cars, as opposed to the common "restoration". How do you preserve originality yet keep a device safely functional? As usual, someone has been there before us, in this case, antique aircraft restorers. A friend suggested the book Restoring Museum Aircraft, by Robert Mikesh. $51 from Amazon; my copy will be here tomorrow.

http://http://www.amazon.com/Restoring-Museum-Aircraft-Robert-Mikesh/dp/0764332341/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1262747713&sr=1-1

Frank

Randy, your account here at Pelican is full, and my email adress seems to be spam-blocked by your email operator, so I can't answer your email. Please contact me directly at: johan (at) autopower dot se .

Thanks,

Johan

For some additional reading on the subject:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/378117-refreshing-old-hardware-keeping-rust-free.html

Regarding Hydrogen Embrittlement:

It is my understanding that the occurrence of Hydrogen Embrittlement is linked to the quantity of carbon in the steel. Looking at carbon content specifically, the more carbon, the stronger the steel (to a point).

The thing is, the steel alloy is not linked to the hardware grade. So you can not deduce the content of carbon this way. Different combinations of alloys can be combined to produce materials for the same grade (strength) of bolt.

My Metallurgy prof. in school said that it's likely not going to happen with gr5 and gr8 (SAE) bolts; but why chance it? Have the parts baked. Even if you have not had problems with a given (unbaked) part in the past, there's no guarantee that a supplier of the material did not change mills, etc. somewhere along the line.

Tim K

Subscribed

Has anyone been able to get the PET site to work? Porsche's website just says "web page not found" when I select SC from the drop down list.

Matt

Hey guys
"Has anyone been able to get the PET site to work?"
Try this link, I think they have what you want
Plano Porsche Dealership | Dallas - Garland - Carrollton - McKinney | Boardwalk Porsche | Texas

thanks gruppe. there's many good catalogs on that site.

I have noted several comments about '"coating, plating, or baking" are you saying that you want to do this to the nuts & bolts? Would you have to tap & dye after such a process?