Proper Door Gap

[surfdwn]

I decided to tackle the driver's side door on my '70 911T. The bottom was rusted out and the door skin was rusted in the lower third. I bought replacement panels from Pelican (********) and first fit the new bottom piece. It needed a bit of trimming, but went in OK.

After attaching the skin repair (the lower door skin) with adhesive, I decided to check the door clearances before final crimping of the skin and finishing the door. I found it to be very straight on the bottom, but in contact with the sill all the way across. I removed the skin repair (the adhesive had not fully cured) and now will have to trim the bottom panel flange.

My question is, what gap is appropriate for the bottom of the door to the sill? I can modify what I've got to fit, but would like to know what the gap should be. The other door is shot too, so it is not a very good guide.

Thanks.


David Nolen
'70 911T (with one door)

[pozee]

Door gap should be 3-4mm all around, according to a resto guide I read.

[surfdwn]

Thanks. That's very helpful.


David Nolen

[sc_rufctr]

3-4mmm sounds good but in reality it can be difficult to achieve.

Last time I adjusted a door was with the front guard removed.
I adjusted it to be the closest to 4mm on the bottom and side...
But to get the top of the door level with the rear guard the bottom was about 2.8mm

Once done I reinstalled the front guard and adjusted that until I had a 4mm gap at the front edge.
Lastly I modified the bonnet to sit lower by elongating the mounting holes for the lock.

With our cars there's always a level of compromise. But you can get very close to the ideal.
It's more down to how it looks to the eye than an actual measurement.

The body guys do it by eye but if you had four drill bits... 2.5, 3, 3.5 and 4mm you can use these as a guide.
You can get metric sets of drill bits in .5mm divisions.

[Jagshund]

What, you mean you don't have the P 1001 Door gap gauge? This is from the manual:

Here is should be checked whether an additional packing piece is necessary for the striker plate. The door gap should be 3 - 4 mm (0.12-0.16") at the bottom, the front and the rear. At the top the front door gap should be a maximum of 4 mm (0.16") from the windshield pillar.

Edit-

Forgot to add that you shouldn't be afraid to resort to the use of heavy, blunt objects during adjustments.

[80-911SC]

paper match books work very well and you can make them thinner or thicker depending on the needs.

I would stay away from drill bit unless wrapped in tape .....

[sc_rufctr]

Originally Posted by 80-911SC

I would stay away from drill bit unless wrapped in tape .....

It's not a problem if you're careful...
You use them as a guide only and not as a tool to pry open the gap.

[80-911SC]

Originally Posted by sc_rufctr

It's not a problem if you're careful...
You use them as a guide only and not as a tool to pry open the gap.

i always use match books and watch the staple, my vision of drill bit would be the flutes against the edge of the door or hood.

Wasn't discounting your method , sorry if you took it that way ......

[Ernesto 911]

Dimensions for a homemade door and lid gap tool, found in a well known restoration manual.

[sc_rufctr]

Originally Posted by 80-911SC

i always use match books and watch the staple, my vision of drill bit would be the flutes against the edge of the door or hood.

Wasn't discounting your method , sorry if you took it that way ......

I didn't take it that way. I should have been clearer... I only use the non fluted end.

Meanwhile "Ernesto 911" has posted something better...

[80-911SC]

i may have to see if i can sill one or ,ore of those out , i'll try it with maple first, not to hard not to soft ........

sc rufctr- have a great day or night what ever it is down there ............

[sc_rufctr]

You have a good one too. It's night time here. 9.22pm.