Question for those who have replaced floor pans

[sfoster13]

Getting ready to drop the floor pans and not sure how to handle the front of the pans. I've drilled all the spot welds and cut where I needed to cut because of rust, but my question is how do you match up/cut the front section? Couple of questions:

1) Do I just cut it out from the inside where it seems to make sense and then drop the old pan on the new metal and cut the new metal to match or should I try and attach the new metal to the bottom and then cut through both layers of metal?

2) Did you guys install one half section at a time or weld the two sections together and then install one piece?

3) Any tips on how to hold the new metal in place when welding - front section in particular? Doesn't look like there's an obvious way to clamp it (the cut section without the flange)

I've added some bracing that I hope will add some support

[sfoster13]

bump

[gestalt1]

i left the foot well area long - in other words don't cut to where the new pan will weld. leave some overlap so when the new pan is dry fit you can mark accuretly before cutting. i installed each half separately, much easier to handle and position. to position i put the floor jack under the middle of the pan and jacked it up until it met up between the outer flanges and was touching the center tunnel. i also used c clamps and vice grips to pinch together the flanges for welding. i actually think the job seems more difficult than it really is. it was more work to cut out the old floor and prep the flanges for welding.

as a side note, wait to weld in the pan until you have done all the other work you might be planning on the interior - it is easier to work in the car without the floor in!

[Jagshund]

1) Do I just cut it out from the inside where it seems to make sense and then drop the old pan on the new metal and cut the new metal to match or should I try and attach the new metal to the bottom and then cut through both layers of metal?

Measure many, many times and leave some room for error even after doing so. Cut to almost-fit.

2) Did you guys install one half section at a time or weld the two sections together and then install one piece?

I left overlap and used self-tapping sheet metal screws to hold it to the other pan and clamps to hold it to the flanges.

3) Any tips on how to hold the new metal in place when welding - front section in particular? Doesn't look like there's an obvious way to clamp it (the cut section without the flange)

At the foremost edge, I left a slight lip of the previous pan in until pan was secured, then used the plasma to slice it off

I've added some bracing that I hope will add some support

If you're replacing the longitudinals, you might want to consider adding more. What was your final decision on that?

[Fishcop]

I've got this job on too, so I'm eager to hear how you go...

[mcaterino]

I did this about 6 months ago on my targa (see link in signature for more). I used the halves and did weld them together before installation, after many, many trial fittings and markings.. I guess if I had it do over again I might try one half at a time, but I wouldn't foresee it making a big difference. It might be slightly better fitting the front edge without the whole back half hanging off. I chose this way because I thought welding them together after installation might have been a bear, but as others have said, a few sheet metal screws could have held the seam.

As far as fitting the front edge that was definitely the toughest part. My seam is right through the rear transverse crossmember mount on the drivers side (it was rusted and had to be replaced), and then jogs back on the passenger side just aft of it. Getting the front half from Stod**** gave plenty of front end to work with. I think RD's is shorter. Once I decided exactly where the old one was going to be cut it was just a matter of rough cutting the new, trial fitting, marking and cutting. At the end it wasn't too hard to press it very close up to its final position and mark a pretty exact line to grind down to. I did find that the shape of the curve under the master cylinder mount was different in the replacement pan, and required some hammer and dolly work to make right.

When I was finally ready to weld it in I clamped it all around, spaced several plug welds at the corners and midlines before working my way around. For the places where clamps weren't possible (tunnel and rear and front edges) I worked my way around with the floor jack and pressed the pan up into place.

I think that's it, but feel free to contact me if you want more detail on anything. Again, there are a few more pictures of the process on my project blog.

Good luck,
Mike

[sfoster13]

thanks guys - appreciate it