Prepping to redo brakes

[Clark Griswald]

I have been studying brake upgrade options for Sparky for some time. I am ready to get going and I am starting to assemble the bits to make it happen.

The objectives are two fold -

1) Increase pedal feel, control and ability to modulate.

2) Improve appearance.

I have never experienced brake fading, even with hard braking on the track so that is not a key consideration. However a little extra cooling can't hurt.

Looked at a number of options including Bigreds, Boxster, Turbo, C2....I have decided to forgo all of these high priced options. Reason is that they are all expensive, hurt performance by adding unpsrung and rotating weight with their jumbo rotors and sometimes cause bias problems. They do bring more fade resistance, but that is not one of my key criteria.

So I have decided to use my existing Carrera brakes, with drilled rotors, rebuilt calipers, performance pads, stainless soft lines, fresh master cylinder, maybe cooling ducts on the front, and painted calipers.

This should meet objective #1 just fine. As for the appearance, I think the drilled rotors will add a lot and the painted calipers will spice it up.

So I am looking for some opinions and information -

What is a good pad for a street/track compromise? I need good cool performance, high friction coefficient, fade resistance, little to no dust, little to no squeak (and I want them for free too )

How can I push out the pistons for the caliper rebuild without compressed air? I don't have a compressor.

What color should I paint the calipers? Don't bother calling me a ricer or poser, I am going to paint them anyway. The car is red and the wheels are silver 993 takeoffs. I am considering red, black, aluminum, or blue.

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Chuck Moreland '86 Cab - "Sparky", '77 Targa - "Sweet Pea"

[89911]

Clark, I was in the same postion as you last year when I drove home from Mid-Ohio with no remaining pad and metal to metal contact. It was interesting driving 300 miles trying not to use your brakes! Anyway, after much thinking, I came to the same decision and used my existin brakes. The calipers were rebuilt since all the rubber seals were fried. I employed the use of my mechanic to do this. Once returned, I stripped them down to bare metal. This actually was very hard since alot of the old dirt and grease were baked on. Once done, I painted with a High temperature engine enamel, 500 degree. I know there are more expensive alternatives, but I used this last year and it held up well throughout all my DE's. They are much easier to paint when off the car also. I painted them a close version of my guard red paint. Neutral colors I would suggest are silver or black. The ligher you go, the dirtier they will look with brake dust. I use 17" Fikse's that are much more open when viewing the brake assembly. Installed these with DOT stainless brake lines and an AJUSA brake cool kit. ATE blue brake fluid was used. I would suggest replacing your pads for track events. The pads on 84-89 Carrera's take no more then 5 minutes a side. I was using high performance street pads last year at DE's (See squeeling rotors above!) Depending on how hard you drive the car, the heat from track use will destroy your pads. I use Metalmasters for every day use and Porterfield Carbon Kevlar pads for track use. The performance of these track pads are also much better then the street pads, no fading, better pedal feel and modulation at the verge of lockup. Pagid Orange are also a good, although more expensive alternative. As far as the rotors, I see no advantage to cross drilled rotors other then looks. And I realize, that looks do count to a degree. I have assumed the attitude that rotors are a disposible item like brake pads from the hard use they go through and may have to be changed yearly, (I already may have some warpage?) It is much easier to stomach $50-60 a corner then the price, $???, for crossdrilled, frozen or other.

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8 9 9 1 1, The last of the line.

[Clark Griswald]

I have considered changing the pads out for the track.

My concern is that the pads and rotors need to "wear in" to each other. And popping in the track pads once a month or so would seem to cause them to require a wear in period every time, such that they may not perform well. Or maybe the abusive track braking causes them to wear in very fast?

[Jim Smolka]

Check out the tech article on brake cooling.

On the track, if your brakes are cooler, the longer the pads and rotors will last IMHO.

[BK911]

Clark,

I can't help with many of your questions, but I can help with the one about getting the pistons out. I used a bicycle pump. I bought a brake line from the auto store for about $2. I cut it in half and crimped one end. I screwed the other end into the caliper and connected the bike pump to the bleeder valve. I used a c-clamp to hold in one piston and the other popped right out. Make sure to drain all the fluid first, you don't want a brake fluid fountain. Also, after your caliper rebuild your brakes will feel mushy for a little while. I did all four at once and the mushyness (word?) lasted for about 100 miles.

Good luck!
BK

[Clark Griswald]

How did you connect the bike pump to the bleeder?

[BK911]

My bike pump has a quick release connection. It's kind of a clamp on, not a screw on.

[John Brandt]

I use a bikepump too but I have a device that screws into where the hard line was and has a schrader valve on the other end to fit on the pump. as I recall it was about $2 from the National Auto Parts Administration (NAPA)

BTW, don't hold one piston with your thumb in an attempt to equalise pressure to the other. You will hurt yourself!
...but that's just what I've heard

[Pillow]

I used Por-15 engine enamel for my brake calipers a few months ago and the paint is holding up very well. My FLAPS does not carry the engine enamel so I mail ordered it from thier website, total was like $25 with S&H. Very high quality paint!

Also as a benefit the brake dust cleans off very easy

I like the Mintex brake pads for on the street that Pelican sells. I have run MetalMaster before and not liked how they wear the rotors. As of yet she is a race track virgin so I am cannot help you there.




------------------
Adrian Pillow
1979 911 SC
1966 VW Microbus
PCA - Peachstate Region

[pbs911]

Last year I did the same to my brakes; painted calipers (high temp exhaust paint, red so they are little reds?), Zimmermann cross drilled rotors, and Ferrado pads. The MC and calipers were rebuilt recently by PO so I didn't do that. I also removed the OEM dust guard and plan to put cooling ducts for the fronts. The price sought by AJUSA is a little high for what it is. I am in the process of fabricating my own out of the OEM dust shiel, shop vac attachment and HVAC ducting. Should cost about $25.00 plus the time.
The paint on the calipers has faded and needs to be redone. However, i would probbably so with a powder coating next time.
I am against steel braided lines simply because you cannot tell when the rubber portion is worn. The OEM are fine for me.
----------------------
Paul
78SC Targa

[89911]

Clark, I mark the pads when I remove them RI, RO, LI, LO.... so they have the same seating. The track pads will bed quite quickly also if you don't happen to mark them. I also disconnected my sensors since it just hinders the pad changing. I have my wheels off my car almost every other week and my wife can't understand what I'm doing. My 5 year old son tell her, "Daddy's working on his take apart car again!"

[autobonrun]

I'll be interested in what you find out. I'm planning to revise my brakes later this year. One interesting aspect regarding drilled rotors. While in a Ferrari dealership last year with a friend, I had an opportunity to ask a mechanic why Ferrari did not drill their rotors on their high performance cars. His answer was that drilled rotors help in racing but don't allow the rotor to get warm enough for optimum braking during normal street driving. I wasn't in a position to argue, but it was interesting hearing another position on drilled rotors. I guess that's why there are different manufacturers; different ideas on what is correct. Does this argument make sense or do you think they are missing the boat?

[Clark Griswald]

His argument is off. Brakes on street cars are designed to work cold. They have to be since you may drive a very long distance before having to break. They will be completely cold and they better stop you.

Plus, drilling really isn't about cooling. The holes are there to allow gases to escape from the pads when very hot. They also lighten the rotor a small amount. They may offer a "slight" cooling benefit by increasing the surface area of the rotor and improving air flow.

I don't know why Ferrari doesn't drill.