valve adjustment - arrrggggg

[rfix'n]

I'm not sure why I'm writing this, every previous post I've read said this was going to be a pain. I can not get my feeler gauge into the valve gap. I have gone so far as to loosened one valve, insert the guage, tighten the adjusting screw so that there was a slight drag, removed the guage and then still can't get it re-inserted to check. I've also tried several different cylinders. Talk about frustrating!

I spent 1 1/2 hours last night just to do one valve and I'm not even sure it's correct. I guess I'll be loosening each adjustment screw in order to get the feeler guage in.

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Rob Fix
'78 SC Targa

[Jamie79SC]

Be calm and become one with your motor. The touch will come. Do an exhaust valve - you'll find it much easier with the additional space. Then you'll get a better feel for doing the hard to reach intake valves in the front of the engine.

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Jamie79SC

What kind of shape are your feeler gauges in? I had an old set where the blades had damaged edges, so they were actually a wee bit wider than the middle of the blade. Obviously that can make it a pain to check a set measurement. When you work on the same type of engines, certain blades wear out faster because you're always using them. Every feeler gauge set I have has a pretty rough looking .006" from the VW engine's valves.

[Pillow]

I have a long feeler guage for the VW's, but this will not work for a 911. I spung the money for the tool Pelican has.

I did my valves on Monday and can feel your pain. If I had never done VW valves before I would have gone insane because it really is a huge PITA.

I do exactly what you were suggesting. Unscrew the swivel foot and insert the feeler gauge, then tighten down. Check by pushing on the rocker butt (non-adjusting screw side) and pulling feeler back and forth. If there is a slight drag you are golden. Once done remove the feeler.

The problem is that the valve adjusters are of a swivel foot design and if you do not lne up perfectly (or there is no gap to get it in) the head rotates and "pinches" the gap closed.

Also once you "know" what you are feeling some/most adjusters do not need adjusted at all... So leave them alone You will learn the click and play amount by feel eventually.

I was a moron on Monday and forgot to take the car out of gear to rotate the engine... Stupid oversightings make life so fun

On the positive side look at how much money you are saving!

Good Luck!



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Adrian Pillow
1979 911 SC
1966 VW Microbus
PCA - Peachstate Region

[Allan Broadribb]

I assume you have the Porsche feeler guage. If so I think you are on track. I loosen each adjustment screw to insert the feeler guage, adjust it and if it will pull out with a slight drag then it should be correctly adjusted.

Before loosening the adjustment screw I make a note of its position to see if it goes back to the same position or if it needed tightening or loosening. probably overkill but if a big change is required I recheck i the valve and the cam position.

Good luck.

[lsolon]

This is what i found to work the best on my 72. I tried the special feeler gauge that you can buy. Broke 2 and said forget it. This works great for some. I bought the feeler gauges that have about 20 different sizes(long ones). You can find them at any parts store. Take the size that you need and bend it just enough. Don't use pliers that will gouge the feeler. The rest of the feeler guages work as a great handle. I have had the same set for 5 yrs and have adj the valves probable 7 times. I just keep the set in a good place where the bent feeler will not get broken. I don't use them for anything else. Try it, it might work for you.

[Early_S_Man]

Rob,

1. Buy the special P-213 gauge and one set of extra blades.

2. Thoroughly clean the screws and nuts on the P-213 tools, and reassemble with medium-strength (Blue) Loctite. And, be sure to do the same ... EVERY TIME YOU CHANGE THE BLADE!!!

3. Do all od the exhaust valves, first, rechecking them, again, after finishing and turning the engine over again ... just to be sure you have a TIGHT 0.004" clearance, WITH SOME DRAG ON THE GAUGE!

4. Then give the #1 intake valve and the rest a try! Don't get angry! It won't help.


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Warren Hall
1973 911S Targa

[Bob W.]

I have found that the feeler guages that are designed for porsches, that have replacable blades and the contoured handles, don't fit well. I have to bend the handle a little to make the guage an easy fit between the valve springs and cam tower casting. Basically, I bend the handle in the shape of an "L" and smooth the outside bent corners on the grinder and wire wheel. After this, the guage will slide in easy and can be used by rotating it about 1/4 turn to slide between the swivel and valve. You don't need to loosen the adjustment to use the guage. As pointed out, if you adjust your valves regularly, most of the time you are just checking clearances as no adjustments are necessary.
Bob W.

[Kurt B]

I know what you're talking about. To compound the issue, in trying to slide the bloody thing under there, the little nut and bolt from one side came off in there. Isn't that nice?
I found the little bolt. Took off the exhaust cover to see where the little nut went, and guess what, that sucker's MIA.
I have so many MIA parts it's practically southeast asia.
I assume that little nut fell somewhere below.
Anyway, I took off the exhaust cover on that side, sprayed some high pressue Starter fluid all over down there (all I could find), figured that might not be good enough, so I then put a hose there and just blew anything that might be in the valve area out of there.
Everything seems to be okay now. But I'd sleep better if I found that little bastard.


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Kurt B
1984 Carrera Cabriolet
911 Page
carrera_cabriolet@yahoo.com

[This message has been edited by Kurt B (edited 06-21-2001).]

[rfix'n]

Thanks for all of the encouragement. I did use some loctite because I read some previous threads (might have been Kurt's) indicating it was necassary.

I'm going to wait untill the weekend to try it again, if I have more time maybe I'll have more patience. I'm determined to do this without having to loosen each screw. This might prove to be hopeless but it seems counterproductive to adjust when no adjustment is necassary.

Thanks again for you help.

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Rob Fix
'78 SC Targa

[Jamie79SC]

Hey Rob,

If your valves are currently too tight, (which they can become between adjustments), you MUST loosen them to get the feeler in. Relax, the next time you have to do the valves, it will be easier because you got it right this time.
-Jamie

[Superman]

The dial indicator holding fixture is about $40 (p-207 perhaps?), and a Harbor Freight dial indicator can be found on sale for as little as $8. This works MUCH better for me than the feeler gauge method.

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'83 SC

[dhaines]

I found the dial indicator method too much work. I use the bent gauge, had to modify to get it to fit easily. I then start with it right against the top of the spring, against the top of the valve. Then slowly move it out toward the swivel cap that meets the end of the valve. With a little pressure it usually finds the gap between the 2, unless the gap is too small. You'll get the hang of it. Good luck....

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Doug '67 911 2.2

[GIBSON]

The dial indicator works much better for me as well. I have used it for 10 years and would never go back. It takes a little getting used to but I find the valves are more uniform in adjustment. It's just a preference, whatever gets 'em adjusted. But like anything, it takes time to get the feel, once you do you also get confidence. If you use the feeler gauge, make sure you are using a screwdriver you feel comfortable with, seems like it's as important as the feeler gauge itself.

Bruce Herrmann
73911S

[Doug Zielke]

Rob,
Check your e-mail!

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'81 SC Coupe (aka: "Blue Bomber")
Canada West Region PCA
The Blue Bomber's Website