Stubborn Stub Axle Nut
 

I am having some difficulty in removing the stub axle nut. I broke one 1/2 inch breaker bar already. What's the trick...heat, nut buster lubricant or a bigger hammer?

Tdowling@juno.com
87 Targa
SmileWavy

bigger hammer! no, you need a 3/4" breaker bar and a length of pipe to extend the length of the bar to 3½ - 4 ft. pop the hubcap, put the car on the ground, set the brake, put the bar at 12 o'clock, brace yourself, and pull hard. my snapon ½" breaker bar does the job, with a pipe, but cheap versions may not. don't jump on the pipe, just pull hard .

The trick is:

3/4-inch tools, long bar, a bit of heat and heavy-duty "shell" (?)with rounded corners so you don't strip the nut.

Don't even try it with 1/2 inch tools....they just flex. Ask me how i know....

Replies
 

You guys are quick.....3/4 inch stuff huh?...looks like another visit to Sears tomorrow if I choose to do the trailing arm bushing. I have a small propane torch...will that produce enough heat? I am in the process of swapping out my T-Bars and was planning to do the spring plate bushings only. The Banana arm bushings look ok....should I leave them alone for now?

Thanks for the quick reply.

tdowling
87 Targa

Yup just went through it. Ended up with an impact wrench. But while using the 1/2" stuff or 3/4" I would recommend putting say a jack stand as a pivot on the extension this way you drive remains straight.

stub axle nut
 

I agree completely with the 3/4" tools.

When you tighten the nut back up the torque is I believe 217-253 lbs/ft.

Go for the higher number. Now that you are screaming, Harbor Freight sells a 3/4" torque wrench for less than $100. This is probably the only thing you will use it for. It looks nice hanging on your wall as it is about 33" long.

At least you will know you've the right torque and the bearing will be compressed like it was designed to be.

Steve

Just went throught the same learning curve. 3/4" is the way to go; 1/2" just does not allow you to give enough torque. I went to Sears too looking for the bigger tools. Didn't have a 32 mm 3/4" socket but I calculated that a 1 1/4" would work too. They wanted $15 for one socket and another $50 for a short breaker bar. Would have to get another pipe too because the 3/4" would not fit the pipe I use for my 1/2" set.

So I went to Harbor Freight Tools. Payed $43 for a complete 3/4" metric set (17 sockets and ratchet etc.) and $20 for a nice long breaker bar. With that, did the job in 10 seconds. No heat required. Pice of cake with the right tool!

btw:

Do not overheat the nut. Just heat it little so it thermally-loosens a bit.

"Right tools for the right job save money"

Right tools for the right jobs, save your life, your limbs, and your marriage.

3/4 inch breaker bar, file down the handle so it fits over a 4 foot 1/4 thick Pipe, two persons pushing on the extended wrech did the job.

I probably should have bought the 3/4 inch socket set from Harbor tools, but did not.

Got it
 

Thanks to all those who helped. The 3/4 inch drive was the key. I used a 1 1/2 inch socket which was the exact equivilent to 32mm. Came apart like buttered bread. No fuss, no muss.

tdowling@juno.com
87 Targa
SmileWavy

BTW,

The torque spec. is 340 lb-ft.

OK guys...about to give myself a hernia trying to remove the axle nuts. Have a 1/2" breaker bar but it's only 24 inches and I am REALLY pulling on it but no budge. I got a propane torch but don't know exactly how to heat the nut. Do I remove the wheel, heat up the nut, then put it back on and lower the car to use the breaker bar? How long do I put the torch on? I don't want to heat the aluminum wheel do I?
I also suspect I'll need an extension which I will try to get in the morning.
TIA,

nuts
 

Buck
You are going to give yourself that hernia.
Get the 3/4 inch breaker bar with a 3/4 inch extension and a 3/4 inch socket.
Sears, Harbor freight, Post Tools whatever.
End of story.
Steve

Steve,
Thanks for the input. I went to Harbor Freight and a couple of other place and could only find 1/2" breaker bar. One more place to try tomorrow. Does the heating help much? I am still not sure how to heat the nut...should I remove the wheel to avoid damage to it?
Thanks,

1. Get yourself 3/4 inch tools (you *must*)

2. Lift up the car, use hand-brake, remove wheel, clean up around crown-nut

3. Remove cotter-pin, apply little heat on the nut (not cherry red, just so it gets hot to touch)

4. Fit 32mm socket, and pull hard on the handle. It *must* go off.

Heating is overkill, just needed if it's really stuck...3/4-tools are *not* overkill and are required for this job.

As it has been said by others. do not use heat, it is not necessary and could damage more than it helps.
Go along with mr Walkers idea.

For tightening the nut you do not need to spend the $100 for the torque wrench.

You know your own weight so you can use your school math to calculate the length of the shaft that will give you the desired torque if you stand on it. Simple and it works!

Bjorn:cool:

I wouldn't use heat. I don't have 3/4" tools. I'd use my 1/2" tools and if they broke, I'd get some 3/4" stuff - Harbor Freight or pawn shop. I'd definitely use my 5' piece of 1.5" pipe over teh 1/2" breaker bar. I'd also put the extension on a jackstand like "type 930" says. I'd use John's advice of popping the hub cap so the wheel can be on the ground. Here's the key: With a 2" breaker bar only this would be near impossible. With the 5' length of pipe, you'll be amazed how easy it comes off. No heat.

I reshaped my 1/2" breaker bar on the same job. I didn't know I was that strong. I cheated and borrowed a neighbors BIG impact wrench- nut came off in seconds.
Just a thought- I was going to drive my car to the local gas station and borrow his BIG impact wrench there to loosen the bolt- snug it back up-drive the 2 blocks home- and work from there.
Gary

Do not use 1/2" tools...you'll just warp it, ending in buying both 1/2" and 3/4" set...

If you are really cheap, you can buy 3/4" , use it and then return it to the shop saying "it' won't budge", or just borrow it from someone.

I learned the hard way that unsuitable tools almost always lead to extra expenses...

Gotta use 3/4" stuff if you have inexpensive tools. I broke three (two regular and one hardened/impact-type) 1/2" drive extensions doing this job. The regulars broke at the female end and the impact broke at the male end. All were supported at the pivot. Picked up the 3/4" setup and another length of pipe and it came right off no problem. Didn't need heat. Didn't even think of using heat as the nut didn't show any signs of corrosion, relatively clean.

Put the car on the ground w/wheel on (center cap removed), set parking brake, put trans. in gear, pull on bar and you're all set.

1/2" stuff might work for the older style castle nut, but apparently the later, higher torque self-locking nut (340 lb-ft) is too much for store bought 1/2" stuff. I'd bet most rental places can help you out with 3/4" tools.