Can I.....
 

mix up some more epoxy and apply it around the suspect area on my pop off valve without having to remove the pop-off valve anymore? I still have a vacuum leak even though I have mounted the valve flush to the air-box. It took me two attempts to finally get it right (or so I thought) after breaking the seal and re-gluing twice. Since it is mounted flush I am a bit hesitant of prying it up again. Has anyone ever just mixed up epoxy and reapplied it in this matter or should I just pry it up, re-sand the area, and try it again? My problem seems to be that I can't get a good bead around the valve because you have to mix the epoxy and then smear it on with a putty knife. Is there an epoxy out there that comes pre-mixed in a tube that can just be applied like toothpaste? TIA.

You want to use JB weld. Yes you can put a fillet of epoxy around the puv.
Some epoxy's come in a syringe and mix when dispensing JB weld does not.

The last time I did this, I used the regular (24 hour curing) JB Weld. One thing I noticed is that as it slowly cured, it also flowed to made a nice smooth seal.

I would suggest you get some of the regular JB Weld, spread it as best you can and let time and gravity do the rest.

So are you saying that I can apply the JB over the epoxy after I clean it up or do I have to try and pry it up first?

I would think you have nothing to lose by trying but a bit of time.

I used a small mechanics mirror to get a good look at the back side of the valve. Its a hard to reach/see area and in my case it is where the leak was.

Ive been using black urethane. Ive had several epoxied ones come loose. Heat and vibration will make epoxy eventually crack. With the urethane, it seals better than anything and drys pliable, and the valve will never come out. Also, clean up of the old epoxy is'nt so critical.

Just pry up on the pop off valve and it will come right off. The epoxy holds it in place but does not bond to the plastics.
Just clean the valve up with a knife and sand paper and replace.
Bruce

i havent been on here in a while, but i did think of you when i read this....

good show this weekend

jon ( red 82 SC)

Jon, my friend, how are you? It was nice to see you and the misses as well. See ya soon.

I would definitely try to rough up the area around the valve with sandpaper, emory cloth or whatever will be most effective in the limited amount of space you will have. This will help to better adhere the epoxy to the surface.

I did notice that there is suction on the lid of the pop-off valve whenever the engine is idling which prevents you from easily pulling the lid up. My thought is after i clean the area up a little i can apply some more epoxy while the engine is running and the suction will help direct the epoxy down into the creavices that a putty knife skips over....what are your thoughts on this?

I have bad thoughts. If i where you, i would pull it out clean it as best you can, go to auto zone and buy a 15.00 tube of urathane, and be done with it forever. I have epoxied alot of these in, and doing very good prep work, but they will still sometime come loose, and when it comes loose your not going anywhere. Urathane will NEVER come loose. It good peace of mind if you have ever had one come loose on the freeway.

I took your advice and bought the urethane from autozone....it's called "windo-weld"...i assume this is the one you were talking about? I destroyed my pop-off valve trying to remove it so a new one will be here on Wednesday...more to follow

WOW!....installed the new pop-off valve using the urethane sealant...now she purrs like a kitten...Pelican has come to the rescue once again...thanks Don Gilbert...you da man!

glad its fixed permanently now.

in all the posts i have read about installing the POV none have ever mentioned using the urethane sealant...how did you find out about it?

My brother is also my body man. His idea a couple years ago.