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1. oil line to turbo was factory line that had the high pressure hose cut off and fuel line and hose clamps connected to the hard lines. 2. paper heater ducting was used, not the newer metal type that doesn't catch fire. 3. leakdown was 40% and 20% on 2 cylinders. After cleaning and tightening, it got down to @ 12%. I wasn't happy with it so had the motor taken apart. 4. old style valve guide seals were used, not the newer teflon ones 5. cams were not stamped and had a couple gouges. Had them sent to Elgin for a regrind. 6. Vac advance was welded on the dizzy. Got a used one from a Pelican and had that rebuilt. 7. Heads were flycut and not mating to jugs very well. Not sure if it was a crap job or due to the blowby with loose heads. There's a lot more that was done. I just can't remember what they were. It was just a half assed job the previous shop did. Moral of the story: Just because a well known shop did the rebuild, doesn't mean they dd a good job. |
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OK....I should have said "well regarded" as in; the people that have been around p-cars forever would take their own engine to a "well regarded" shop for a rebuild.
When I said “well known” I was not referring to the “infamous” shops such as MM, et.al…Poor choice of words. |
I bought my '89 with a service ticket reflecting top and bottom rebuild...found out later, the dude missed a shift,..had the cash to go the full monty (top and bottom),..a +$15K invoice,....
I didn't know whether to throw- up or be relieved the "work" was done (good as new) at ~100K miles..... I took the relieved approach......done. Best, Doyle |
FWIW I would avoid a 'fresh' rebuild. a build with 10K plus miles is a better bet. a 911 engine with good comp and leakdown numbers at that point, not burning oil, is likely going to be a good runner for a long time.
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Great advice from everyone! Thanks!
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