3.6 transplant- fuel lines problems

Darryl Irvine · 03-22-2010, 08:58 PM

OK, the kit I bought for my 3.6 transplant got me this far, but the connections into the new fuel filter and return back to tank-not so good

. Basically, the fittings just didn't match up, no matter what!! I ended up cutting out the male ends of the ball fittings from of the old 6" flexible lines and pressing the barbed ends into new fuel line, that was rated for 250 PSI. The guy at the speed shop said to just use hose clamps on all the ends (not in pictures yet). But with all the posts I've read about engine fires & fuel lines, i don't want to do something stupid this far into it! Any comments would be great. By the way-i intend on reducing some of the larger line down in length.

sc_rufctr · 09:37 PM

There's nothing wrong with using a hose clamp on a fuel line if it's installed properly.
The key word here is "properly"...

Often they are installed too tight and this damages the fuel line.

That damage isn't apparent straight away... But over a period of time the fuel line is subjected to heat and the clamp sinks into the line causing problems.

This is what I did to my SC when I found some of the fuel lines were leaking on my first engine drop.

By using Dash fittings and braided line I could do this myself...
Also... I was going through a divorce at the time and this project provided some mental relief during stressful time.

The biggest issue in going this way is cost but I wanted to feel confident that I wouldn't have any fuel leaks.

In this photo you should be able to see the two fittings for the fuel filter and fuel accumulator.
I used the OEM barb fittings and had Dash6 Bungs welded onto the ends...

Darryl Irvine · 03-23-2010, 05:21 AM

I knew the PSI factor would be fine, but i did'nt think about the heat factor. Thanks

arrivederci · 03-23-2010, 05:45 AM

Has anyone heard of problems using the factory-tunnel lines on early cars (not meant for high pressure)?

Darryl, whose kit did you buy?