Steering has become very stiff

[Clark Griswald]

On my '77 (the Sweet Pea) the steering has suddenly developed a problem. I can turn the wheel but it is exceedingly heavy. Feels kinda like trying to turn the wheel of a power steering car when the engine is off.

Occasionally it will break free for a short bit, then heavy again. The car can not be driven as it is.

A quick visual inspection turned up nothing. Tie rods look fine.

I think I need a new steering rack. After all it does have 235k miles on it.

They are expensive though and wanted to get some feedback before I throw a lot of money at this. I see rebuilt racks for around $400, I think I could buy a used rack for a lot less.

So my questions -

1 - Do you agree that it is the rack?

2 - Would I be foolish to buy a used rack, or should I buy a rebuild (after all the rest of my car is used)?

3 - Can I rebuild the rack myself?

Thanks
-------------
Chuck Moreland '86 Cab - "Sparky", '77 Targa - "Sweet Pea"

[Planter91C2]

i just fixed this problem on another car. i assumed like you that it was the rack but it was not.

it would do exactly what you describe; tight and then sometimes freeing up. the fix, which i got from a foreign car mechanic was simply to put penetrating oil on the joints in the steering shaft and work them out.

it worked!

------------------
Daryl 964 Targa

[This message has been edited by Planter91C2 (edited 06-19-2001).]

[old_skul]

My steering wheel bushing is getting a little grindy too. I think I'll try some oil and see what happens.

------------------
Mark Szabo
1986 911 Targa 3.2
1987 Escort 5-speed 1.9 RIP
The Porsche Owners Gallery

[Early_S_Man]

It could be steering column bushings/bearing, tie-rod ends, ball-joints, or dried-up original lubricant in the steering rack.

The rack can be disassembled, cleaned, and repacked with Swepco 101. A Turbo tie-rod kit becomes a logical part of this cleanup/refresh process ... and provides new boots for the rack.

------------------
Warren Hall
1973 911S Targa

[Clark Griswald]

I replaced the tie rods with turbos, that was about 10 years and 80k miles ago. I wouldn't expect them to need replacing yet.

I also replaced the bearing at the top of the column about that same time frame.

The ball joints are an unknown, probably original. I have never done anything with other joints or bearings in the column, so these bits are both suspect.

I did adjust the rack years ago when it felt a little sloppy. This one adjusts using shims.

If I disassemble the rack, do I need any special equipment to put it back together? dial indicator?

[BRAINIAC]

The little u-joints in the steering shaft are prone to stiffening up. That's probably where the previous poster was talking about putting the penetrating oil.

------------------
Tyson Schmidt
72 911 Cabriolet
92 C-2 Cabriolet

[floorMatt]

Clark,
I would agree with Daryl...Had the same problem, there was even a considerable amount of noise that went along with it. Tore the steering down to the rack, inspected, reassemled, and the problem was still there. My last feeble attempt was to oil the joints on the shaft and the input shaft on the rack and viola!, it worked. Before you spend a considerable amount of time and money, I'd go out to your car, open the trap door in the trunk and drop some oil on that steering rack input shaft. Drive it around the block and get back to us, Im dying to see if this works with your problem as it did with mine.
Best,
Matt
80 911SC

[Planter91C2]

Originally posted by BRAINIAC:
The little u-joints in the steering shaft are prone to stiffening up. That's probably where the previous poster was talking about putting the penetrating oil.

that is exactly what i am talking about. i hope it works! it is an awesome feeling when a simple tip makes the repair.

clark, be sure to tell what happened.

[Clark Griswald]

Wow! Unbelievable. It worked. It took all of 5 minutes.

This board is GREAT!

I was ready to spend $400 on a new rack, let the car sit in the driveway waiting for the weekend, spend all weekend on my back wrestling the new rack into place, and when it was all said and done the problem would have remained.

Instead, with the great advice from you guys, I solved the problem in 5 minutes with stuff I already have in the garage.

I owe you guys a beer.

[floorMatt]

Clark, out of curiosity, did you oil the joints on the shaft? or did you oil the input shaft on the rack?...I did both so I don't know which one actually solved the problem. I imagine you just oiled the rack because getting to that shaft takes the better part of an hour.
Congrats on the quick fix! Wish there was one for every p car problem
Matt

[Clark Griswald]

I oiled the u-joint in the smuggler's box. That solved it.

I will oil the other joint too, but that will wait for the weekend. I could see that it was going to be a bit harder to reach.

This is probably a good 50k mile preventive maintenance item.

[Jdub]

Guys:

Is this part number 29 on these SC-specific parts diagrams?

http://www.pelicanparts.com/911/911_Parts/1974-75/4-3.JPG

Also, I have heard of putting viscous oil in a syringe and injecting the ball joints through the rubber...any comments on this procedure?

Thanks very much in advance,
Jw

[Clark Griswald]

Yes, that is correct Jdub. Note there are two #29s in the picture. I oiled the one closest to the rack, and will do the other next.

I don't know if injecting oil into the boots of ball joints is a very good idea. You want grease in there. Grease has the wonderful property of saying put. I think the oil would ultimately find a way to leak out, especially as the boot wears.

[Pillow]

Yes, a syringe (sp) is a great way to shoot grease into CVs and ball joints.



------------------
Adrian Pillow
1979 911 SC
1966 VW Microbus
PCA - Peachstate Region

[Clark Griswald]

Well, I jumped the gun and tried to oil the upper u-joint tonight. No joy.

That baby is burried. It is covered by a carboard tunnel, which in turn is well protected by the ventilation system. Looks like I would have to remove major parts of the ventilation system to get at it, and that doesn't look like fun.

Anybody know an easy way to get access to that U-joint?

[Clark Griswald]

I've answered my own question.

First the bad news - There is no way to do this without removing large chunks of the ventilation system.

Now the good news - The ventilation system is not too tough to get out.

Don't take off any linkage, there are just a few screws to turn and the whole thing can be moved out of the way.

Incidently, next time a replace a 911 master cylinder I will definitely pull this out first. It is much easier to remove the ventilation unit than it is to squeeze the MC in around it (as I have done twice before).

Now that both U-joints are oiled up, the steering is good and light again.

I was so turned on, I decided to do Sparky too. Sparky has always been kinda heavy in the steering department, I just figured it was because the Carreras are heavier. I never liked this.

After getting the u-joints oiled, 'ole Sparky feels 500 lbs lighter. Still not whispy light like Sweet Pea, but noticably improved.

I would highly recommend this as a preventive maintenance item.

And again, thanks for the tip. This was a life saver.