Basically 2k for heater work, was this a fair price?
 

Dear Pelican Friends,

I'm just trying to see if I paid a fair price for some recent work I had done...

Basically, to my surprise, the bill totaled about 2k. Maybe this is just what it costs, but I really expected closer to a grand.

Here's the rundown, I went into the shop for a leaky Targa top, potential parasitic draw, and inoperable heater.

Here's what I was charged:

-Targa assessment: ~$340, brought down to $140 (I contested the $200 of "research" for the fix, and they still didn't fix it--am sending it out at my choice to Dan Petchel who is a genius w/ Targa tops)

-Parts for heater: ~$540 for blower motor w/o fan, then blower sensor, bracket, hose, and hardware.

-Parasitic draw: $200 to confirm no parasitic draw

-Labor for heater: $100 for evaluation, $350 for testing to determine power problem for lack of power to the front blower fans and cleaned corrosion at heater switch contacts, $220 for install and transfer motor to rear fan assembly, $180 for replacing heater blower sensor/bracket.

Perhaps since it's just been a while I have forgotten how much a moderate sized repair is to the P-car, but was wondering if a few Pelican-ites could give me any type of feedback or gut check as to how reasonable these prices are?

Thanks!!!

Well, I guess more like $1,500 for heater work, not 2k...But still the question stands! :)

Sorry man, you got hosed big time.

It can sometimes take a little work to track down the exact source of a drain on an electrical system, but it takes 2 minutes to confirm there is no drain. You do it right at the battery with a multimeter, 2 minutes it's done. $200 to confirm there is no drain is pretty much the same as lifting $200 from your wallet when you aren't looking.

Same with the Targa top, sounds like they tried to charge you $340 for doing absolutely nothing.

I can't really tell what they did with your heating system exactly, sounds like a combo of the footwell blowers in the interior and the main blower on the engine? In any event, it's a pretty simple system, with primitive blower motors and electrical connections. They have a lot of charges in there, my guess is at least some of it is totally made up, seems like a ripoff to me.

Overall, IMO these guys stuck it to you good.

Never heard of a 'research' charge. And most shops I know would look at $540 for a blower motor and contact a Porsche salvage place for a guaranteed $75 unit. Parasitic draw is, as stated above, 2 min max with VOM.

I think your shop was in need of rent money.

Wow

Name of shop? So others can avoid.

total rip.

Saving $
 

518.50+ shipping from our host...I just saying....I installed one myself its not that difficult. Next time you need work done try it yourself then if you need help go to the shop.

ouch...I hate people who take advantage of others!

++++++++++++++++++1

If it was my shop, it's $65.00/hr + parts. No need to rip any one off to the tune of $2000.00!!
So maybe 4 hours and a used blower unit-$400-500 range.

Rich,

We don't know if you are mechanically inclined, but, you might want to purchase a Bentley and become acquainted with the "Inners" of your car.

In many cases, your model-year is not as complicated as the newer cars, and of
course, there are many members who are only too happy to lend advice.

Good luck,

Gerry

2K for a lot of fancy words. Ask them how much to research a flat tire or a 911 extraction / evacuation and replenishing of the engine lubrication system?

LOL re extraction/replenishing, well ironically enough I left a few quarts of oil to top it off and they actually charged me $30 to put two quarts of oil in the car b/c it's "a process to ensure you have the right level and requires shop time." I mean, even that seems a bit ridiculous...

So thanks to all for the feedback, any other feedback is still welcome!

Is there a way to go back to the owner of the shop and say "Man, what's up with this?" or better just to cut losses and move on? The guy that invoiced me was just the shop manager, not the owner.

BTW, where I went was Bristow's Automotive in Tacoma, WA. It's owned by Pete Bristow who seems like a super nice guy and I like personally, but this is my second service with them with a similar experience of what feels like exorbitant pricing...

My biggest problem is that I live over an hour away from Seattle where there are some great wrenches, down here in Oly there aren't many choices...

when i first read this, i was like WOW, and then you say, they charged you $30.00 to put in a couple quarts of oil?? SUPER WOW!! that is highway robbery.. I cant believe you're asking if thats OK...

You got ripped, but I will say a labor rate at a competent 911/Porsche shop is more in the $95-$115 an hour range. Definitely not $65 an hour.

I agree, that's the type of part, and cost, that a shop should ask the customer about, i.e., whether they want new or used.

But, he did have a targa top problem, too. I'm surprised the shop didn't just order one of these up and stick it on the bill!

Pelican Parts - Product Information: 964-565-002-01-707-OEM

Sorry to hear of this outrageous charge for "almost no work done" by a shop in Tacoma, WA. Holy Cow!!

Next time, drive or trailer the car to John Walker's Porsche shop. Take the wife and kids to the Space needle for the day.

The quality of the work will be excellent, the price will be fair, the car will be happy and the family will have a day to remember.

Just my .02 cents.

Olympia to North seattle is 100 miles. A lot for a tow. I feel for you.

How about just learning to do this on your own. We all are DIY here.

Yeap,..next time,..exercise this forum resources,..THEN see what shakes....lesson learned.

Doyle

Thanks guys, appreciate the insight...

Despite not being mechanically inclined, logically and intuitively when I got the bill I was shocked...Was just trying to give benefit of the doubt until I could get some other smarter opinions than mine--I thought maybe I was just clueless as to the real cost of servicing the P-car. I think they do good work it just seems the pricing structure is, flat out, not right.

Ahhh, lesson learned for sure. The Seattle suggestion is a great one, I've gone to John once before and I think he is exceptional, everybody loves him--it's just a long haul up there. But, I think it's just been proven, a worthwhile one.

Raz

2k pays for a certain amount of inconvenience. Wow, as "nice" a guy as this guy might be, his business practices leave a lot to be desired. In theory, when you go to a shop and you're paying $100 per hour,it is because they've put in their time understanding your particular type of car so they can be very effective in diagnosis and repair..... sounds like you paid the big bucks but didn't get the expertise. $30 to put in two quarts of oil....I'm no expert but what does it take? Bringing it up to running temperature, (which doesn't demand the mechanic to be watching, to do), checking the dipstick and adding until he reaches the desired level. What's this guy charge for an oil change on a 911? $800? From the sound of it, John Walker/ space needle is the way to go. Hope the work a least results in your problem being solved. Cheers

AAA + is your new friend. I think I pay $130/year. That gives me 4 x 100 mile tows. Well worth it, and cheap insurance. In your case, this will get your car to John Walker, hence saving you thousands in bogus repair bills.

Don't ever go back to your old shop again.

---

Tom '75 Targa

In NJ shop is required to provide estimate before work is started. Also to return used parts if requested. Having said that, I think most of us have overpaid... I have. Now I request a quote before all work.

I'd drive 2-3 hours for JW. Too bad I'm on the wrong coast.

But, certainly be sure to let the owner and manager know why you won't be back! Print out a summary of this thread and leave it on their counter. That manager guy has to be a little ashamed of handing you that bill.

Your, sir, were hosed.

+1 on AAA. Have them tow it from your driveway and then bum a ride down to pick it up.
The only thing worse than a car that needs work is one that was worked on by an incompetent or crooked mechanic.

I have to agree with the other guys, that was way too much. You should have asked for a quote especially after you first repair seemed high. For that manager to sting a repeat customer like that is just driving the owners business down.
I'm a bit of a DIY'er and have always been but I've learned so much about my car from hanging out here, a local repair shop put on an engine re-build course and 1/2 of the guys there were not DIY people but wanted the knowledge to understand there engine and how it works for their own benifit when taking their car to the shop. I would bet big dollars that when those guys need engine work they will take it to the same shop to have the work done. Ask around at the local shops to see if any of them put on courses like that not only do you get to see stuff done you also get a feel for the shop, the mechanic's, do they do a pro job, clean and tidy with their work etc... After my experiance with this course I would have no reservations about letting Jacob's in N. Vancouver do work for me. These guys are pro's un-like your shop, did that manager ever work for Motor Miester?

unless the draw is so bad that the car would die on the way up. you wouldnt have needed a tow to get to JW to get the heater fixed. but a truck and trailer rental would have been cheaper than your research bill.
not sure if JW would have bothered with the targe top. but that could be sent to a specialist and you could reinstall your self. seals are a b!tch to install but a DIY.

the zoo is walking distance to JW. i have made the visit there several times while waiting for JW to do something i didnt want to DIM.

checking/topping off the oil should have been done in your driveway...

Not tryin' to be a clown but the last time I added - albeit only half a quart - of oil to my SC the "process" was:

1) Start Car
2) remove oil filler neck cap
3) pull dipstick
4) wipe said stick off with my finger
5) re-insert dipstick
6) re-remove dipstick
7) read level on dipstick
8) see that it needed 1/2 quart
9) stop engine
10) add 1/2 quart
11) re-start engine
12) pull dip stick again
13) wipe dipstick with same finger as before
14) re-re-insert dipstick
15) pull stick yet again
16) read the level once again
17) smile because I hit it right on the money
18) replace filler neck cap
19) close engine compartment cover
20) get in 'er and drive away.

Wow! 20 steps! Looking at it this way $30 was a Bargain!
Just kidding, :D

OH NO!!!

You just lost your oil dip stick on the freeway. Step missing between 17 and 18...putting the oil dip stick back in before putting the oil cap on. LOL

Kidding.SmileWavy

Raz,

I live down south as well and I use Too Quick's German auto in Tacoma for routine stuff. Chuck Johnson the owner, was a factory tech at the Porsche dealer in Tacoma before Robert Larson bought it. I've know chuck for over twenty years and he is fair and his rates are responsible.

Good Luck,
John