need pix of where bump steer spacers go...please
 

title says it all...I am working on a 76' 912 and the steering rack is bolted to the alum cross bar by the BOTTOM of the steering rack...I thought the bump steer spacers were inserted btwen the TOP of the steering rack and the body, right??
I am confused & the kit came with no instructions...probably because this wont work on this car or I have been exposed to too much brake clean...
Thx everyone & pics would be great where these go & if I can use them on this car...

Also, where do the turbo tie rod "spacers" go...could not figure that one out last nite @ 2 AM also...

Bob

You should have received longer bolts with the kit. The spacers go between the rack and the crossmember. You need to loosen the steering linkage in the smuggler's box so that the shaft can move freely while you install the spacers.


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/190648-how-long-install-turbo-tie-rods.html

thx Wayne...I was leaning that way...but...wont that RAISE the steering rack when I want to be lowering it, right...??
What prompted this was the tie rods were stk & toast on the tub...so I replaced them last nite...also part of the plan is to lower the car to euro height, so I thought a good time for the bump steer...my thinking which may be "cloudy" was that the bump steer kit (spacers0 was mostly if not totally for when you lowered the car, NOT because you installed turbo tie rods...am I thinking clearly??
Thx for your early Sat AM help...
Bob

The bump steer spacers correct the tie rod geometry when you lower the car. You may not even need them at the height you arrive at.

I installed them as my car is below "euro" height and I was getting bump steer.

I would suggest that you hold off on them until you try the car out. Get it aligned and corner balanced and THEN decide.

Of course, if you have already taken the rack apart it would be better to do it now.



Do you have "101 Projects for your 911"? If not, you should get it. Wayne(the other one:)) really went to great lengths to detail upgrades like this.

Found this thread which explains bump steer.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/516529-homemade-bump-steer-kit.html

thx again Wayne...I do/did have the 101 project book from Wanye but I can not find it...arggggggggg
Thx for setting me straight on the location for the spacers...just seems weird...I will wait till it is dropped & aligned to possible add if needed.

On the turbo tie rods...are the fat washers to be used inbetween the end of the rod & where it threads into the rack...?? If so, the length I needed the complete tie rod to be to match what I removed would lenghten the new ttrod too much, thus if they go there I could nopt use them.

Thx for confirming all of my late hr work last nite was not a waste... :-)

Bob

bump steer kit
 

Here are the instructions that come with the bump steer kit from Weltmeister,
hope this helps !

Cheers :)
Phil




http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1271517791.jpg

thx wildcat...do I understand #4 saying to "large tube running accross the car" to be the alum cross bar??
Thx again everyone...
Bob

Hi Bob,

Haven't installed mine yet as i'm waiting for my ER front arm bushings from Pelican before i lower the car to it's final height.
I would imagine they refer to #4 as the cross bar !

Cheers !
Phil

Tweaks, I just did a bump stear kit and turbo tie rods last week - good luck....yes, #4 is the crossmember.

Thx Ruby...notice any improvement with these 2 mods done...?? Did you also lower a/o do other suspension goodies while you were in there...??
Thx again!!
Bob

Bob,

As I recall on the fat washers with the tie rod kit: You may not need them. They are supplied because on some year cars the threaded tie rod will bottom out in the rack and cannot be tightened. The spacer is supplied to allow the rod to be fully tightened into the rack. If you can thread the rod into the rack and tighten it securely, you won't need the spacers.

cool......thx L.J. as I used blue loc tite putting them in & was thinking...what if I screwed up some how...phewwwwwwwwwwwwwww glad I made it...
Bob :-)

Hey Tweaks - no other add-on mods that day, but did remove/re-index rear torsion bars and lowered the car all around. The tie rods really tightened up the stearing response - really enhanced the point and shoot feel of the car at speed. I was really surprised how small steering wheel movements resulted in directional changes of the car - I love them. I did notice stearing feel oh so slightly heavier at parking lot speeds - but really no trouble at all.

When you lower the car, you are effectively raising the wheels. Since you are raising the wheels you need to raise the rack as well. This keeps it closer to the level of the steering arms.

-Andy

In this pic of the cross member, looking down from the top, you can see the two bolt holes on top of the cross member towards the center.... A spacer goes on top of those holes...

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1271643954.jpg

It's a little hard to take a pic with everything together, but here is the spacer on the passenger's side of the cross member. It rests between the body and the cross member. The red thing is the skid plate...

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1271644049.jpg

JB

can i ask what are you guys doing at the tie rod end to correct bump steer, i hope you dont think that just putting a couple shims under the rack is all thats needed, Kevin

I'm NO suspension guru, but I think that IS what we think.... all we're trying to do is correct (not perfectly, but for certainly enough for anyone on this board) the change in geometry caused by lowering the car.

JB

duplicate deleted.... how does that happen?

i would have the bump set after installing the shims, it will get rid of any un wanted darty feeling, Kevin

The WM instructions neglect to mention loosening and resetting the steering shaft U-joint on it's splines to reduce any tension between the rack and the steering shaft. Raising the static location of the crossmember and thus steering rack will put this joint under stress. In addition, not loosening the u-joint may make it difficult to move the crossmember and install the rack spacers.

FWIW, there is no "bump" adjustment per say built into the suspension other than to reset the ride height to factory specs. Aftermarket solutions include the aforementioned rack spacers or by adding modified tie rod ends.

Sherwood

fwiw you will have to us a bump tie rod kit along with the spacers to get what your after, Kevin

Thx everyone...those pics confirmed it all for me & I also found my 101 book from Wayne AFTER I cleaned my office for my 14 yr olds b-day party yesterday...
Turbo tie rods installed...bump steer spacers next then I will be lowering the car to euro specs...then off for an alignment...
Thx again!
Bob

I just did the turbo tie rods and bump steer spacers last week. The steering does feel tighter and better, but the REALLY noticeable improvement is while going over uneven pavement, like for example a cloverleaf with really crappy midwestern pavement multiple-patch-repairs. The car used to really bounce and jerk around in the steering/suspension. Now it's rock solid.

Thx Talewinds...did you also do any lowering and/or have you had it aligned yet??

Well, here's what I did due to a shoestring budget...
Previous owners have lowered it a little, but I'd like to get another 1" closer to the ground front and rear. Although I preset the new tie rods to match the length of the old ones the toe was WAY out of whack when I installed them. I put it all back together and set the toe somewhere in the ballpark, I then had my local tire place set the front toe correctly, that helped in a big way.
In the long run I want to lower the car a bit more and then have the Porsche specialist do a proper alignment on the car.
Bottom line, I want to monkey with my suspension some more but I only want to pay for an alignment once!

Sherwood - can you post (or point to) instructions on checking to see if this was done (by a PO)?

- also how do you know how far to move the U-joint?

Loosening the ujoint is a matter of getting into the smugglers box next to the gas tank so you can access the stearing shaft linkage. Once in teh smugglers box loosen the ujoint so that when you push the stearing box up to put the spacers in, the ujoint will slide up the splined stearing shaft easily. Once the spacers are installed and the stearing rack is tightened down again, you tighten the ujoint. Either 101 or the Tech Info Center here on Pelican ( I cant remember) details the process out for you.

+1

I might add that if the steering rack u-joint is pushed up too high, the end of the splined shaft might interfere with the joint and limit steering rotation. This could result in a 100' turning circle or more. Check and confirm. If this happens, shorten the end of the shaft accordingly with a grinding wheel (off the car for neatness).

Sherwood

I loosened that coupling just below the u-joint in the smugglers box so that there was plenty of play and no binding. When I inserted the spacers under the steering rack I only got about 3/16"-1/4" of upward movement of the splined shaft into the u-joint coupling.

Talewinds - that sounds about right.

the spacer is a tad less than 3/8" so thats correct...just make sure you have full lock to lock travel when car is back on the ground...
I had my son hop in the car when it was on the ground and turn the steering wheel lock to lock while I looked at the u-joints just to make sure their was no binding...

That's a good point I wanted to add.
Although that splined coupling was loose, there initially seemed to be very little movement after I put the spacers in. I went to the steering wheel and turned it lock-to-lock several times, the steering feel gradually improved and in going back to the smugglers box it appeared that I had gotten more upward movement of the splined shaft.