not sure what to do about one of my nuts...
 

i am installing an oil cooler on my '73 911E and i cannot get one of the oil line nuts to budge. it is connected to the thermostat. i need to replace the existing line with a new one.

so far, i've tried penetrating oil, then a short bout with a torch. still won't budge.

any ideas??

Keep going with the torch. These are usually very difficult to get off...

-Wayne

I think a Pelicanite had a similar problem a while back. He used a Dremel to slit the nut enough to weaken it, yet not damage the threads on the other piece. If you're fitting a new line, and are careful, this should work.

Doug is right, and to elaborate, there are two methods ... depending on how much access you have. Three-cut is easiest to get off, if you can get at 3 of the 'flats of the fitting, making cuts down the 'center' of the flats, and breaking the nut into three 120-degree arcs.

Two-cuts mean a bit more force is needed with a drift or cold chisel to separate the 180-degree arc segments of the nut. Good luck!

great suggestions ! since i am going to be replacing the line, i think i'll try cutting the flat edges.

thanks for the quick response.

Considering the subject wording of your post, I would have expected some interesting replies... (I normally keep the torch away from my nuts.) Actually, I have nothing constructive to add. Good luck!

Hello

Yes those things can drive nuts.

A other trick is to use two hammers and "dingle" the nut, this will loose the corrosion and the nut will come off with some heat and correct tools.

Mostly the best is to drop the complete system from the car and work in a scure position with lots acces.
If you overdoo you will twist the pipe like a hankerchief.

Grüsse

Good advice Roland, as usual! I have noticed a lot of cars with dimples from the inside, near the thermostat. I wonder if most if not all are from trying to get wrenchs in the tight space. By the way what is considered the correct tools for this job?

i don't know about the rest of you, but i cringe at the thought of putting on of my nuts between 2 hammers and "dingling" them. seems as though i'd be singing soprano after trying that trick.

I find the best tool to loosen up your nuts is a 12" pipe wrench. It is small enough to fit in between both nuts and it can grab them without any problem.

Steve

Hello

We had a thread about that several monts ago. Was with Leland.

I used to get some closed end 15° angled or straight wrenches in the needed sizes ( 32, 36, 41, 46 ups a other story ) and the cut the wrench up with the pipe diameter. So you can slip them over the tube and onto the nuts.

The box wrenches should have a 12 hex insert as this will allow you to wrench loose and if you "hit" the fender you just reset it by one theet and you are back on the game.

Straigt wrenches are better to force something loose but on some spots the 15°wrench or a steped wrench used "backwards" will give you more acces or more way to move over the needed point where you can set the wrench one step further.

For the alarmclocklike rining bell from the nuts you need a big lead filled body shop piece to clamp behind the nut and then use a long brassrod wit a slight rounded surface as a hammer.

This will loosen very much dirt and if you are under the car wear googles as the dirt between body and pipes comes down as well..

If you have to replace the oilhoses on the 3,2 coolers then forget about loosing it they are sometimes corroded so heavy that they are burstet themself. best is use a saw and slice the rubberhose. then remove the cooler and flush it. Fill the pipends on the car with some paper andslice the nut open. If you try to turn them loose they will mostly twist the line.
On the rrear at the thermostate the problem is mostly that the aluminiumhousing will give up the threads.

Here is a hard desicion witch part to save. It is possible to renew the nuts on the hardlines but if you sliced it and find the threads from the thermostate are bad anyway you rised the costs by trying to rescue a part.

However before you dent the car or use aflex and will spread fine fresh corrosion inhibtors all over the place go the full way and drop the complete system.

It will be very heavy and bulky but you have very good acces and can lever much better. I know people trying to sve time and then needed more parts and to repaint a dent becourse mostly the used a big vice and the "do or brake" force.

The other benefit is you don´t have droping dirt on you or the chance it will wander into the oilsystem. OK on the end from the line is the oilfilter so it maybe will not cause any bad things.
But i didn´t would risk that on my own car why should i risk that on my costumer car ?
Oh did I told you I´m maybe the "slowest" mechanic in the automotive field ? I always hear people can do things better and faster as well. So I´m not a good example for a fast wrench ;)

Pedantische Grüsse

I'm in agreement with Grusse (sorry, I couldn't find my umlaut).

Dropping the pipes might seem like uncessary work, but it provides better access for long wrenches and standing on levers.

Sherwood Lee

Roland, you also helped me with this problem a few months ago. S/b in the archives too. I ended up using large (15") adjustable spanner wrenches. Removing the parts from the car allowed me to apply leverage more easily.

Cheers.