Shifting problem need your input
 

I have a 1986 Carrera Cabriolet.

When I shift from 1st to 2nd gear, it is hard to get the second gear to seat smoothly. It kind of jams and won't go into gear. I have had the transmission rebuilt which helped some. Any other advice you may be able to share is greatly appreciated.

Also, I have a quote to replace the turn signal switch for $280. Is that a good price?

Ed

1- Check your bushings associated with the shifter and linkage before doing anything else in regards to your shifting issue.


2-replace the switch yourself(buying the replacement from Pelican, of course:))

There are several threads detailing the replacement.

Do you NEED a new turn signal switch?

How many miles ago was the gearbox rebuilt?
Has the oil been changed since the rebuild?

Assuming the gearbox is run in and the oil has been changed it sounds like an adjustment problem.
It's worth checking the condition of the bushings as well.

Like stated above the switch is an easy fix... Just swap it out with a good one.

I had similar issue and it was resolved by adjusting the clutch cable. I don't know if you have tried that already but It a good start.

Make sure the bushings are in good shape.
1. at base of shifter shaft
2. one that surrounds the shaft
3. the 2 bushings in the coupling to the trans

Then adjust the mechanism. Do a search here for instructions.

had a problem with my turn signal switch before too. The paint shop shorted it out, and long story.
Anyway, the switch assy can be rebuilt, or atleast repaired. Due to the shorted signal circuit, the heat generated had melted the plastic block where the contact blades seat. Hence the Blades was no longer within reach by the reciprocating contact driven by the lever.
So I Dremeled the area around the melted block, and re-filled it with arraldite, wit the contact blades in position. 2 years on, still work fine.

The best improvement I've made to shifting was a properly adjusted *new* cable. I should have done it years earlier. I would get the ocassional grind going into 2nd - not any more.

+1 on bushings in the shifter assembly.

And, lube the shifter too. That makes it much easier to move and improves the feel to help learn the subtleties of a porsche transmission. ;)

It really isn't hard to replace them.

Thank you for all the great input. I appreciate you taking time to respond.

Ed

Had the same problem between 3 & 4, after screwing around with it for 6 months I replaced the linkage and haven't had a problem since.

When your rebuild was done, was the 2nd gear synchro hub (dog teeth) replaced? If the synchro ring was replaced but not the dog teeth and the slider there may still some balkiness as a result. The synchro ring may be outside of it's spec diameter.

Don't forget to look at the pedal cluster as well as a cable adjustment/ replacement.

Sounds like the shop that rebuilt the trany should check the sifter adjustment. The coupler in the tunnel between the seats connects the sifter rod to the rod that goes to the trany, and the coupler aligns them. If they are out by just a CH, the car won't shift properly. The only way to check the alignment is by test driving the car and shifting through the gears. It's a trail and error process. The procedure is in the Pelican Parts tech articles.

Another thing asked in the thread, " were the sifter couplings and bushings replaced. Did they install a new ball and cup which is connected to the shifter?"

+1 for bushings. Just replaced the bushing at the end of the shifter. Now there are no problems shifting into 1st or 2nd.

After the bushings, replacing the engine and tranny mounts helped a lot in my case. Of course, the final "fine tuning" was adjusting the shift coupler -- which required some patience to get it just right.

read this, it may help:

Pelican Technical Article: 911 Shifting Improvements

Good luck.

---

Tom '75 targa

Ed:
If you or a shop replace the Signal switch, that's the time to look at the bushing in the steering column. The OEM plastic bushing gets worn out giving you radial play. Move the steering wheel up and down and you'll see.
This is an easy fix. Porsche has a steel sleeve that is installed by pushing it down on the old plasic bushing.
Also, the current for the head lights goes through the contacts of the stalk switch and burns the contacts. The fix for this is to install 2 relays under the fuse blocks in the trunk; one for low-beam and one for high-beam.

Do a search for both of these recommended easy fixes.

How long does it take to break in the transmission? I have 2K on it now

What I had done is below:
Summary: Removed engine & transmission to inspect, replaced 1st & 2nd gear engagement (dog) teeth, 1st & 2nd gear OP sleeve, 1st thru 5th synchros. Clutch Assembly, pressure plate, disc, & release bearing all fine at this time.

If I may ask: for (hopefully very distant) future reference: how much did you pay for the tranny rebuilt?

It is hard to say exactly. I also had a major service done at the same time, since the engine was out. Also front wheel bearings were repacked. All for $4K. Roughly $1,100 of that was tranny parts alone.

Mine felt pretty tight when shifting for 1500, 2000 miles or so after it was gone through. I'd change the oil about that mileage after a rebuild, and strain it.

As others said, it could be that the coupler needs to be adjusted, or something else is wrong.

However, I also remember reading somewhere (can't find it now, but very likely this forum) that the 915 has a baulking mechanism that prevents the gear being engaged before the speeds have synchronized properly (e.g. to let the brake bands/synchos do their work).

So I think you're working against that if you rush the 1st-2nd shift, especially if changing up at low RPM - e.g. below 3,000 RPM, like in traffic.

My '86 915 has always dropped straight in 1st->2nd if I rev to 3,500 or above, the shift takes longer otherwise - and both 915's I've used in my car have behaved exactly the same way.

I believe this is Working As Designed, you can't beat the mechanism, so don't try; it'll let you know when it's done and slip straight into gear.

Contrary to widely-held belief, a 915 with good dog gears, synchros and brake bands doesn't require you to double-declutch in order to select 1st above 20 MPH - but I happen to know what those wear items cost nowadays, so I prefer to do the work for them.. :)

The switch is $130, you have to take the wheel and housing covers off, replace the stalk, I seem to recall a couple of flying connectors and a bulkhead plug, then re-assemble. About an hour if you've never done it before and being careful.

If you didn't own any of the tools, you could buy them for less than the labor rate - and then you'd have them for the next minor job... I happily pay my independent shop for things I don't feel comfortable doing myself, or don't have the tools/equipment for. Turn stalk is DIY in my book.

Great info on the bushings.. I was doing a search and this thread came up, thanks for the link to the article. Mine is doing the same thing. Doesn't have a hard time going into gear (ie. doesn't grind) but sort of pops into place. I figured it may be a shifter/bushing issue because my 914 did the same thing till I sorted through all the bushings on the linkage.

Great thread!